I missed something, what is the significance of a sensing bulb's 2:00 position?
Your not the only one to say that, but with the pressures the way they are in the off cycle, I have a hard time believing that a crankcase heater will take care of the issue. Though I could be wrong...
I missed something, what is the significance of a sensing bulb's 2:00 position?
I believe in latent heat.
Man dont let all these guys trying to sound smart throw you off. It is true that you should pull a vacuum to 500 microns but that is not your problem. All those old farts used to vent to the atmosphere and purge instead of pulling a vacuum dont let them fool you. If you have a TXV on your coil usually you have to add a start assit if the condensing unit does not already have one because A TXV is slower to equalize than a fixed orfice. Also you definatley have a low charge. I've noticed this site is full of these rude folkes that try mke this rocket science and it is not. Ask someone who is actually out there doing tech work that you work with these guys want to run around the question with a bunch of B.S. and blow hot air. I'm out good luck with your carreer atick wit it because you can make a god living at it.
So I guess you were the guy who figured out that refrigerants harm the atmosphere. That's really cool. Or did you hear that from someone else, as the rest of us did? Yeah those old farts sure were stupid weren't they. They need someone brilliant like you to show them how not to be rude, also.
I believe in latent heat.
I have a question about the txv is it internal or externally equallized?
if is at the bottom of the line.say 6 oclock..then then there can be oil or a small amount of liquid on the bottom of the line inside and it can cause you not to sense the ref. temp correctly..if it is on the top..you may sense only vapor..it is more important on largerlines
Thanks. If I don't learn something new every day, I'm slipping behind. Today I worked on an AC unit that had a compressor replaced in '86. New experience for me, musta been from the 70's. If it had a problem I probably woulda had to call a more experienced tech for help.
I believe in latent heat.
I went to a book store and asked where the "self-help" section was. The guy at the counter said "If I told you where it was, that would defeat the purpose".
I believe in latent heat.
LOL good point, I guess so
I believe in latent heat.
non condensables have nothing to do with comp not starting put a super boost on it and if that doesent help replace comp or cond unit:
Txv is a 26k34 and is a non bleed type??? and I also have compressor numbers.
AW207ET-035
T6292C 194858 AW5528G
V200
Thats all thats stamped on top of the compressor case.
Been to cold to start the unit. Tried to start it and it ran, but the suction line started to frost up, like its undercharged??? Doesn't the txv protect against that stuff. I'm not good at wrapping the outdoor unit with a blanket and getting acurate temps, and a charge.....
check it with an acid test kit, like a totaline. also, even with a txv, the suction is gonna be the last thing to freeze if it's real overcharged. usually a heat exchange issue at the evap
Last edited by B_roche; 05-23-2007 at 05:58 PM. Reason: re-read post
Guinness for strength
Your unit should have an external equilizer on it. Since your coil has a distibution tubes, it needs to equilized due to pressure drop. Did you get the valve from carrier or totaline. then the valve should have been externally equalized. did you remove the piston from the distributor or leave it in? sounds like the system is not equalizing under start conditions.
Outdoor temp has been low 50's. Suction line frosts up, or I have a leak at one of my txv fittings. was charged. gota go to work.
Just out of curiosity does this unit have a plastic/ceramic component on it with a yellow wire across it ? If so, does it get really hot when you try to restart the unit ? If so it should be taken out of the circuit when you installed the hard start capacitor.