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  1. #1
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    Nov 2012
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    Motorized damper + home theater help!?!

    Hello folks,

    So I'm building a dedicated home theater in the basement that will be very tight (for sound isolation). I'm having a mechanical engineer do the calculations now for cfm/velocity etc, but the ideal plan goes something like this:

    • Two 6" supplies feeding the theater (from one of two main trunks in the house).
    • One 6" exhaust. Since I didn't want to tie into the existing system (for noise reasons), my designer has suggested a technique where we'll use an inline Panasonic Whisper Series exhaust fan (up to 240 cfm) up in ceiling of the hallway just outside the theater. It'll pull air from a ceiling "return" in the rear ceiling of the theatre dumping it out into a hallway/common area where it'll get picked up by the regular cold air return and recycled.
    • Furnace fan set to "on" while we're in the theatre to circulate air.


    What I'd like to accomplish:

    1. I'd like to install motorized dampers on the two 6" supplies for two reasons. First, I'd like to be able to close off one of the dampers when the theater is empty, diverting air to the rest of the house. Secondly (and more importantly), I'd love to be able to have the one or both of the dampers close if during winter months the house calls for heat but the theater space is already too warm.
    2. I'd like to have an easy way to turn on the Pansonic in-line ceiling fan (the one that will exhaust the room) when we're in the room.


    I have no idea how this could be wired. I assume I need the two dampers themselves, a controller to control them, and tstat for the theatre. How all this would be wired is beyond me - especially if it has to tie into my existing tstat (in order to know when the heat cycle is on). I'd be happy to pay for some assistance if anyone wants to PM me cuz I'm lost!

  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    Oh I see. Well if anyone cares to help, respond in this thread and I'll post my email address.

  4. #4
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    Mar 2009
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    How about something far less complicated to install, like a dedicated ductless mini split you could turn on just before you want to use the space? Also make sure your engineer takes into account the heat load for however many people are going to be in there, in addition to adding some fresh air to keep co2 levels down.

  5. #5
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    I plan on roughing in a ductless split so I have the option of easily adding one later if needed, but it does nothing to address my main concern of bringing in fresh air and exhausting stale air.

    I suppose I could handle both the supply and return by exchanging air with the room next to the theatre but that complicates things from a sound isolation standpoint and requires a split and two in-line fans from day one.

  6. #6
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    You could do a small ERU/ERV unit that would exchange the air and temper the fresh air coming in.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    I thought about this too as it would be ideal, but without moving a main trunk and/or adding soffits into the theater space (which is only 7'6" in height) there is no way for me to get ducts into the space

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by memmo View Post
    Oh I see. Well if anyone cares to help, respond in this thread and I'll post my email address.
    Email addresses are not allowed in pot. You may put it in your profile.
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Stongsville Oh
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    Many of the ductless minisplits do have a duct connection for OA. Some have a four inch round connection. The theater room would be in a slight positive pressure while the unit is on. As far as controlling dampers for this space it would be a no brainer for a good tech.
    Occupancy switch, Auto changover heat cool stat and a couple of relays would probably do the job. The problem I see with the sequence you are asking for is what if the theatre is full (people) and you need cooling but the homes t/stat is not calling? Still think a mini is your best bet.
    ckartson
    I didn't write the book I just read it!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by ckartson View Post
    Many of the ductless minisplits do have a duct connection for OA. Some have a four inch round connection. The theater room would be in a slight positive pressure while the unit is on. As far as controlling dampers for this space it would be a no brainer for a good tech.
    Occupancy switch, Auto changover heat cool stat and a couple of relays would probably do the job. The problem I see with the sequence you are asking for is what if the theatre is full (people) and you need cooling but the homes t/stat is not calling? Still think a mini is your best bet.
    I do believe at some point a ductless split will be apart of the equation for just the reason you suggested. Like I mentioned, I plan on roughing it in and just purchasing it later (I'll probably go with a 9,000 BTU Mitsubishi Mr. Slim as they're very quiet). The factors for delaying the purchase are:

    1. Budget - if I can rough in and purchase later (next spring/summer) it helps.
    2. 90% of the time it'll be my wife and I alone in the theatre. No other heat sources are in the space (other than lights which will be off most of the time). The projector will sit in an adjacent room and fire through the wall.

  11. #11
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    The cost of dampers, the exhaust fan, stat, relays, labor, probably isn't far from the mini split. Why not just wait until you can afford the equipment?
    ckartson
    I didn't write the book I just read it!

  12. #12
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    Stongsville Oh
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    The cost of dampers, the exhaust fan, stat, relays, labor, probably isn't far from the mini split. Why not just wait until you can afford the equipment? I still feel your sequence has a lot to be desired when the homes system is not on but your theater is demanding heat or cool. just my two cents.
    ckartson
    I didn't write the book I just read it!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    Like I said though (unless I'm not understanding something) is that I'll still need the dampers/fans etc. The split won't magically exhaust the space nor will it heat the space when its -30c outside. It also won't address the fresh air aspect.

    So if i've got to do everything first, why not do what is needed first and then add on a split if I find that I need additional cooling later?

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