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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    SW MO.
    Posts
    5,216

    Upflow, Downflow, same difference

    Went to a single story house that has been sitting vacant for a year. Unit stopped working last year and then lady moved out. Now it's going up for sale. You'll want to pass on this special. And I do mean special

    Anyway, find cap blown outside. LV wires chewed up by weed water. Lady swears no one has weed eated. Suuuure.

    Replace cap, repair wires, check charge. Added 1 lb r22. Go inside to check filter and TD.

    Go to floor register. 80 degrees. Wtf?
    Air isn't pushing very hard. Charge seems good. Check filter.

    Wait. This furnace is an upflow. In the closet moving air up thru the attic. Supply registers are in the floor. Look up to see more supply registers in the ceiling. 63 degree supply. So all of the floor registers are returns.

    How did a crackhead get a hold of a Trane system and install an upflow in place of a Downflow?








    Oh, and what are those eyes staring back at me? Those are box vents in the roof. Furnace closet all open to the attic.

    I asked the lady who she pissed off for them to install this crap. She says its been like that since 2004 and has worked fine.
    Really? Total of 6 supply's in a 1500 sq. ft. house. Some rooms didn't even have supply registers.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    109
    Wow. So...... Where was the filter rack?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    SW MO.
    Posts
    5,216
    Filter was inside furnace.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    northern Ohio
    Posts
    168
    I've seen that before from a competitors installer doing "side work". On another note do you always charge a unit before checking or pulling the filter? That is where I always start

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    SW MO.
    Posts
    5,216
    Usually not. I check that first. But didn't this time.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    213
    Hilarious, that's a new one to me

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    The Quad-Cities area (midwest).
    Posts
    2,744
    I've also seen this done before because some of the supplies have collapsed. There are normally not enough supplies to allow enough return air back to the furnace however. Adding a large return on the sidewall will do.

    Ceiling supplies (obviously) should be installed in every room and the "opening" to the attic (in the furnace room) is a real efficiency killer............lol.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Cary NC
    Posts
    643
    So floors was return and ceiling was supply? That's awesome!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    The Quad-Cities area (midwest).
    Posts
    2,744
    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Whaley View Post
    So floors was return and ceiling was supply? That's awesome!
    The main problem with converting from a counterflow furnace to a upflow furnace, and using the old supplies for returns, is the question of airflow. Which ones are restricted, how much and which ones might collapse in the future.

    The new return that is added needs to be plenty large enough.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Cary NC
    Posts
    643
    I have always wanted to add a return to the master bedroom here since it has a Cathedral ceiling. Have to drag out J and my ductulator. I actually need to overhaul the dutopus in my attic.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    NORTHERN
    Posts
    991
    Quote Originally Posted by chaard View Post
    ............And I do mean .......... 6 supply's in a 1500 sq. ft. house. Some rooms didn't even have supply registers.

    Well if the cold air is in its own boundaries, 'spos it would cool nicely, regardless of efficiently (warm air staying undisturbed floating high up)

    not going in to winter operation above...,

    but where applicable,

    I frequently, especially commercially (v and HV-4-way registers),
    stream air from ceilings, as shown it takes care of itself in summer just fine, but greatly improves comfort and savings in the winter:

    inner grille fins (1st or 2nd pair inner-most fins) are left as is flared outward: opposed to all others twisted inward ~ 3-to-5 deg; and the results:::

    similar to making the garden-hose water from-the-head, stream around the button-stem end of nozzle- that has for adjustable stream-producing-
    you may find registers can throw air
    and from ceilings easily like in comm stairwells over 22 feet down with warm air hitting the floor at lesss then two (2) FPMinute and inverted-on air on the floor- mushrooms out-ward, taking care of over 400 sq ft of air-rotation (layer in convection turns over a lot of air volume).

    Customers in like rec rooms(having ceiling register) lose their couch blankets at their legs when it toasts the toes.

    late Lynn Perkins training in Vertical Air Stabilization. ---
    This you will find also outperforms paddle-fan fly-pushers and directed-nicely, gets improved room comfort ---way improved--- where it is applicable. Warehouses overhead ducts in cold areas , same register-grill streaming from standard grills has spot-cooled and heated workers without expensive grill purchasing, over 55 feet away at ~ 2400 FPM out of the register-grill face. The inner 'button-wrap' of higher velocity air works at just ~ 300 FPM on up.

    That ceiling register may need a twist of fin' .
    ... however, much work still needs to be done.
    CLOSED LOOP newer ratings are listed, but in numerical EER's Closed- is posted below OPEN LOOP EER's:

    http://www.energystar.gov/productfin...r=0&lastpage=1

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Moore, Oklahoma, United States
    Posts
    4,454
    6 supplies might be fine for 1500sqft if they are big enough. That's all I have on my own 1600sqft house and it cools fine, 2ton system. 5 8" supplies, 1 6".

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