To lower humidity, set fan to "ON" or "AUTO"? - Page 5
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  1. #53
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Delaware
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    3,824
    The return is so close to that gas hot water heater. You should clean up any chemicals/paint/cleaning products from around the furnace
    Always here

  2. #54
    That's also the laundry room though, so I keep detergent there.

  3. #55
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Mount Holly, NC
    Posts
    2,987
    it's very hard to tell from your picture...

    the pipe you have the red line drawn on does not appear to be the return. it looks like the supply. is there more ductwork under the picture you inset? is there ducts in the wall on the right of the furnace?

    to me, it looks like the coil is loosely connected to a transition that turns, and then connects to a plenum that goes through the floor? can you tell if it's connected to the bottom of the furnace?

    I'm guessing this is in your basement, so the duct HAS to be the return, but it looks like the supply is connected directly to it... maybe the installers panned the floor joists, and they just tied everything together on the outside?

    can you shoot some more angles, and post better pictures?
    The TRUE highest cost system is the system not installed properly...
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  4. #56
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    SW FL
    Posts
    6,225
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Gaius Baltar View Post
    Okay, I placed the temp reader up against the register. Here are my findings:

    nearest register to furnace: after AC ran 23 minutes, 88% humidity, 64F
    farthest register from furnace: after AC ran 20 minutes, 85% humidity, 64F

    The temperature is 84 outside, 61% humidity, still 73 inside the house at the thermostat, AC still set at 73 and fan on AUTO.
    64'F (dT =9) is so EXTREMELY POOR, I cannot imagine what's going on.
    System seems to be ~50% efficiency IMO.
    Designer Dan
    It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with "Some Art". ___ ___ K EEP I T S IMPLE & S INCERE

    Define the Building Envelope and Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows and Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities

  5. #57
    The AC tech didn't come today because, for unrelated reasons, today was pandemonium. On Saturday a car ran a red light and slammed into us, but we are physically uninjured. The car is in rehab. Today, though, dealing with the claims adjusters about liability, that was really scary.

    Head Six is gone, though. I think the force of the collision knocked the cylon chip in my brain around. My days of having half-naked ladies that nobody else can see appear before me are gone, I think. The car accident killed Head Six

    Hopefully tomorrow there will be no insurance emergencies and I can go back to getting that tech to fix the humidity!

  6. #58
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Fort Worth, TX
    Posts
    11,273
    Glad you're okay. Six will resurrect. Maybe she will tap into your a/c to get it working like a champ.
    • Electricity makes refrigeration happen.
    • Refrigeration makes the HVAC psychrometric process happen.
    • HVAC pyschrometrics is what makes indoor human comfort happen...IF the ducts AND the building envelope cooperate.


    A building is NOT beautiful unless it is also comfortable.

  7. #59
    The tech came today and adjusted the ramp profile and my humidity issue is now resolved. After the AC has been on a for a while, the humidity drops down to around 50%. Before it was fixed, it was stable at 65%. The temperature of the air in the ducts right at the top of the furnace was about 51F when the tech last checked it (post-fixing), and 55F in the register in the master bedroom when I last checked it with my refrigerator thermometer. Looks like everything is good now!

    I have reset the thermostat back to 75 (fan AUTO) and will see if I can nudge it up to 76, 77 or even 78 over the coming days while still feeling comfortable, due to the newly reduced humidity.

  8. #60
    By the way, my HVAC guy recommended that I put in an Aprilaire 760 whole house humidifier. I could have gotten it at a discount if I had bought it when I got the whole HVAC system, but now it will be more expensive. He said that it should reduce my energy needs during the winter, because I'll feel comfortable at lower thermostat temperatures. I usually set my thermostat to 66 in the winter and wear socks and a second shirt to keep out the cold. I don't seem to get any sort of skin or throat irritation from the low humidity that we have now in the winter, around 20%.

    I plan to live in this house for another 5 years. Do you suppose it would be cost effective to get this humidifier? Would it pay for itself in reduced heating bills?

  9. #61
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI/Cape Coral, FL
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    6,231
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Gaius Baltar View Post
    By the way, my HVAC guy recommended that I put in an Aprilaire 760 whole house humidifier. I could have gotten it at a discount if I had bought it when I got the whole HVAC system, but now it will be more expensive. He said that it should reduce my energy needs during the winter, because I'll feel comfortable at lower thermostat temperatures. I usually set my thermostat to 66 in the winter and wear socks and a second shirt to keep out the cold. I don't seem to get any sort of skin or throat irritation from the low humidity that we have now in the winter, around 20%.

    I plan to live in this house for another 5 years. Do you suppose it would be cost effective to get this humidifier? Would it pay for itself in reduced heating bills?
    Humidifier will not pay for itself. Are generating sparks during cold weather?

    By the way, glad your a/c is able to maintain <50%RH during normal to high cooling loads. During low/no cooling loads and +60^F outdoor dew points, your a/c will not be able to maintain low humidity. Keep us posted on how this works during rainy cool wet weather. This where the whole house dehumidifier does its magic.
    Regards TB
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  10. #62
    Generating sparks? You mean, do I see static electricity and sparks sometimes when I flick a light switch? Yes, I didn't realize it was connected to humidity.

  11. #63
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Atlanta GA area
    Posts
    20,765
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Gaius Baltar View Post
    Generating sparks? You mean, do I see static electricity and sparks sometimes when I flick a light switch? Yes, I didn't realize it was connected to humidity.
    Yes indeed... Low humidity in the winter increases the occurrence of static electricity issues. The reason is higher humidity tends to dissipate the potential charge before it builds up.
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  12. #64
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
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    67,597
    Wait and see how your humidity is in the winter. You said you did some sealing to the house, right?
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  13. #65
    Are the sparks a safety issue? Could they cause a fire?

    I had air sealing done, yes. Around August 2012, and the winter that followed had humidity levels as low as 20%.

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