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  1. #1

    Cool SEER 10 TRANE XB1000 - House is too warm

    So our landlord already had a technician out. We where having problems before with the condensing fan kicking off and the AC blowing hot and this was about a month or two ago.

    The technician advised we had blown capacitor and the fan blade was on backwards (drawing air in from the top and blowing through the bottom of the unit instead of cycling air from the bottom out the top). He checked the refrigerant levels and he said all was well and the output tempts where 55f on a 78 degree day (humid as well).

    We are now having issues again with the unit. We frequently change filters and even removed the plenum and cleaned the evaporator (it was not frozen as some indicated means you are low on refrigerant)the evaporator is actually very clean. The airflow out of the vents are as expected and its not warm air coming out but it's not cold. Its 81F out with 85% humidity and the house is looming at a degree colder then that(80F). Something is wrong here, our fan is blowing lukewarm air on the outside unit but I feel its hardly hotter then the outside. The compressor is circulating because the I can physically hear the refrigerant moving through the copper lines. The big line on the outside is cool to the touch and sweating but not like an ice cube.

    I know im probably going to have to get a technician out here but can anyone think of anything to try before hand? We have thoroughly cleaned the outside unit its very shiny lol.

    I have great appreciation for you all and what you do, home comfort is something you take for granted until these things happen.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    SW Wisconsin
    Posts
    4,897
    Well, U can get a humidity gage for very little money at a hardware store; along with the humidity gage all U need is a thermometer; a digital is best.

    First, take the temp-rise off the outdoor condenser & subtract the outdoor temp from it.

    Next, read the indoor humidity gage, if it reads say, 50% at 80°F indoors the condenser temp-split on a 10-seer should be around 22 to 25°F. The higher the indoor humidity the higher the our door split because it contains both the latent & sensible heatloads.

    As the indoor humidity goes above 50% the indoor temp-split or temp-drop will decrease; it increases as humidity goes below 50%.

    OR, U can continue to let them play with your mind & emotions, perhaps you continue to remain uncomfortable, without knowing whether the system is performing anywhere near its nominal Ratings. It's your decision...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    SW Wisconsin
    Posts
    4,897
    Well, U can get a humidity gage for very little money at a hardware store; along with the humidity gage all U need is a thermometer; a digital is best.

    First, take the temp-rise off the outdoor condenser & subtract the outdoor temp from it.

    Next, read the indoor humidity gage, if it reads say, 50% at 80°F indoors the condenser temp-split on a 10-seer should be around 22 to 25°F. The higher the indoor humidity the higher the our door split because it contains both the latent & sensible heatloads.

    As the indoor humidity goes above 50% the indoor temp-split or temp-drop will decrease; the indoor temp-split or temp-drop increases as humidity continues to go further below 50%.

    OR, U can continue to let them play with your mind & emotions, perhaps you continue to remain uncomfortable, without knowing whether the system is performing anywhere near its nominal Ratings. It's your decision...

    If the A/C system does check to be performing OK, then the home's envelope needs to be checked for problems...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    67,763
    Call the landlord and have them send a tech out. Its included in your rent to have A/C right?
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