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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Trinity, North Carolina
    Posts
    6

    Question Humidity levels in garage 2400sq/ft with 12ft ceiling, What are my options?

    I need some opinions as to what I can do to reduce the humidity level in my garage/basement, I'm not sure what the humidity is but cardboard boxes are getting soft and the paper items aren't crisp and I don't want to have ruined items... I have a 3 car garage/basement that is roughly 2400 sq/ft that has a 12 ft ceiling. I looked into dehumidifiers today and the ones for a space that size hurts to even look at the price. Do I have any options when it comes to this? The space is completely open other then a small unfinished bathroom and a utility closet.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI/Cape Coral, FL
    Posts
    6,537
    What part of country are you in?
    Get a high efficiency durable dehu, like the Santa Fe Compact II or Advance.
    Regards TB
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Trinity, North Carolina
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by teddy bear View Post
    What part of country are you in?
    Get a high efficiency durable dehu, like the Santa Fe Compact II or Advance.
    Regards TB
    Oh, sorry I should of updated that....I'm in the Piedmont/Triad of North Carolina. Is there anything I can do without breaking the bank? Thanks...also I'm a bit confused as to these units as most of the ratings state they are based on a place with 8ft ceiling and with a 12ft it says to increase the number by 50%. If I must buy a unit I don't want to buy one that's a waste of money or unable to handle that large of a space. If it makes any difference the floor is concrete, sheetrock ceiling and cinderblock walls for the most part.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    641
    Better ventilation?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Trinity, North Carolina
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by NiHaoMike View Post
    Better ventilation?
    Not sure as to how I would do that. My living area is built above this area, I have 3 garage doors, 1 door going outside and 1 door at the top of the stairs going into my living area. I'm guessing leaving the door at the top of the stairs open wouldn't be good on my A/C as it would draw the air from the garage up...not sure if its just because of all the rain we've had or what. We bought the house in November and just now are experiencing this problem, the pvc drain pipe off the a/c runs through the basement and you can see it sweating.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Down by the river
    Posts
    1,664
    Quote Originally Posted by NiHaoMike View Post
    Better ventilation?
    Ventilating rhe area with hotter more humid air is not the silution to the problem.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI/Cape Coral, FL
    Posts
    6,537
    Quote Originally Posted by ctroxtell View Post
    Oh, sorry I should of updated that....I'm in the Piedmont/Triad of North Carolina. Is there anything I can do without breaking the bank? Thanks...also I'm a bit confused as to these units as most of the ratings state they are based on a place with 8ft ceiling and with a 12ft it says to increase the number by 50%. If I must buy a unit I don't want to buy one that's a waste of money or unable to handle that large of a space. If it makes any difference the floor is concrete, sheetrock ceiling and cinderblock walls for the most part.
    The moisture load is dependent on the amount outside air that infiltrates the space. Using the Santa Fe Compact that removes 70 pints per day and will handle 70-80 cfm of infiltrating air and maintain <50%RH. On a windy day or after the doors are open the indoor humidity may rise to 60% RH occasionally. This would not be the end of world as long as the space gets dried down through the evening hours.
    If the garage doors are leaky and the humidity is critical and can not be 60%RH for several hours, to the larger Santa Fe unit like the Santa Fe Advance +90 pints per day and will handle 100 cfm of in filtrating damp air.
    These units go up to 155 pints per day.
    Regards TB
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    2,603
    Cheapest in the long run is to find out where the Moisture is coming in and abate that. Get some Heavy Mil plastic and Duct tape it in 3' x 3' areas on the floors and walls. Look at you gutters and downspouts for leaks. Get the Downspout discharge away from the house. This will involve digging at least 10 ft from the house and installing the Black corrugated drain pipe. Use the solid stuff, or it will be full of roots in no time. Have it come back to the surface, and install a slotted cap over it. Don't be surprised if you need to cut the floor and install a sump pump, if the floor is wet under the plastic.

    Radio Shack has a nice 4 channel temperature humid monitor so you can find out what you have in humidity.
    Last edited by madhat; 07-06-2013 at 07:15 AM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Trinity, North Carolina
    Posts
    6
    Most the time the doors all stay closed, I know I can see a small amount of daylight coming in around the bottom sides of my garage doors. I have some efforferesence on the cinder block from the water slightly leaking through the wall...been meaning to try to build the dirt up to channel the water away from the house. I'll post some pics later if anyone wants to see and give advice. The Santa Fe unit is over $1000 which I don't have at the moment.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    2,603
    Sounds like you need to do some digging and reparge the Garage/Basement Walls. They make seal strips that go on the garage door sides, also you can buy strips of Velcro, use just the loop side and Contact cement it to the horizontal seams of a wood door, only do this on a wood door as a metal door won't have enought gap for the Velcro. I personally wouldn't put a dehumidifier in the garage, but would use a Two pipe Spot cooler. Grainger's has some nice units from Friedrich that will remove 70 + pints a day, with no buckets to empty or drain hose. If you home AC failed you could also move the spot cooler to the house for emergency cooling.

    I just looked on line at the Specs. And my spot cooler removes up to 144 pints per day.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Trinity, North Carolina
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by madhat View Post
    Sounds like you need to do some digging and reparge the Garage/Basement Walls. They make seal strips that go on the garage door sides, also you can buy strips of Velcro, use just the loop side and Contact cement it to the horizontal seams of a wood door, only do this on a wood door as a metal door won't have enought gap for the Velcro. I personally wouldn't put a dehumidifier in the garage, but would use a Two pipe Spot cooler. Grainger's has some nice units from Friedrich that will remove 70 + pints a day, with no buckets to empty or drain hose. If you home AC failed you could also move the spot cooler to the house for emergency cooling.

    I just looked on line at the Specs. And my spot cooler removes up to 144 pints per day.
    What spot cooler are you running? Don't you need a business account to make purchases at Grainger's?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    2,603
    Mine's a Friedrich, 14,000 Btu's of cooling. It's 230 VAC, but I'm not sure they make them anymore, with the new ones being 120 VAC. Mine heats too, if it's above 32 Outside. I've only used that feature once, after the garage door was left open all day. I cut two holes in the garage Brick wall to vent it. They will sell some items to the public, for store pick-up.

    This unit saved me when my Central unit died and I needed sometime to line up a replacement.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Trinity, North Carolina
    Posts
    6
    These prices hurt to even look at most seem to be close to $1000...last year I could afford that.. this year not so much

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