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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
    Posts
    6,039
    Really no difference between the two a valve is a valve and they all work the same.

    Horizontally with small stub on bottom is preferred by all manufactures but I see them leave factory assembly with it mounted totally opposite to preffered mount.

    Vertical is an acceptible position with small lines on top never bottom.

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    13
    Any idea what he could have done besides moving the valve to the outside to make it cool again? My father in law was here and said he just worked on the unit in the attic. That was the only thing that was touched. What should I say if I get another tech out here trying to sell me a whole new unit when I might have an idea what might need to be done?

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
    Posts
    6,039
    Is it still having problems? If so what's the symptoms

    Right off the bat the other company should have removed the inner drier and replaced it. It could be the problem but not guaranteed. Its not easy to diagnose a partial clog.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by SBKold View Post
    Is it still having problems? If so what's the symptoms

    Right off the bat the other company should have removed the inner drier and replaced it. It could be the problem but not guaranteed. Its not easy to diagnose a partial clog.
    Actually the only problem is that when it first kicks on the outside unit makes a noise and then goes away. It isn't all the time. Im gonna get it checked out. Just a matter of timeline and who to trust. Based on the little that I provided if it just the drier will it be ok for a week or two?

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    13
    The next question I have is about ducting in the attic. I thought I was being smart by listening to my father in law. The ducting in the attic was held up by strapping. It was our opinion by letting it down and sit on the insulation and maybe being less kinked it would be better. Is this the case or I read something about heat transfer and shouldn't be? Next question is our house is ours is 2 story and I really feel it should have 2 units. Off the main ac duct in the attic it has a damper that can be adjusted. We used to adjust in summer/winter to get flow different. Should we invest in a zone system? Do we need to call a ac person to adjust the flow proper?

    http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread....n-attic-floors

    I continue to read to much.

    if the air doesn't circulate the condensation doesn't dry. doesn't matter how hot the
    attic gets.

    correctly installed flex duct..straight tight runs with gentle curves rather than
    sharp drops and bends.
    ducts suspended with duct strap..not tight to the roofline, but suspended again,
    in straight runs with gentle curves & no restrictions..its an art in itself.

    as long as I've been doing this, I still have to
    step back and re-adjust the straps to keep ducts straight. now I know folks
    who don't..they get it right first time..but they've been at it longer than my 10+ years.

    personally I think sealing ducts, running & strapping ducts is as important.

    Off the main there is an area where 4 ducts that me and one in particular is kind of kinked. As it is run I see no way around this. The house is only 6 years old. Either have someone do an energy audit or leave well enough alone.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    13
    Well I had an AC guy come out. He checked the valve that was installed, the ducting and took out the old Freon to get rid of any air in the system. He actually weighed the Freon unlike the person that put it in. It had double the Freon it should have in. It was an extra 12 pounds. So because the bulb on the txv valve was installed incorrect to give false pressure. Things seem to be working great but haven't had a 95 degree day yet.

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