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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI/Cape Coral, FL
    Posts
    6,073
    Quote Originally Posted by GT1980 View Post
    perhaps drop the teddy and be like bear, for mostly what he wrote...

    in variable compressor (VFD, Iq, VarC) or dual compressor (3-staging sm+lg, then both) in lowest staged a/c there is little need in southern to northern homes (90%) for additional DeHumidification. The air speeds of the blower can drop (as adj prog. allows) some to some 320 cfm per compressor-inside-labeled-ton (300 per most ratings-tons outside label) and wring moisture out of the air. At those systems designs the heatexchangers are 3 to 4x's oversized at that staging. Other sensing at "compressor-off" at frosty conditions, really makes a difference.

    Commercially it is said dry air and humid air meet faster than the speed of sound, so less overall- placed distribution- is usually fine. AIR MOVEMENT in lower cooler sections keeps a lot of moldies from adhearing, alone, at higher than recommended rHum #'s.

    A little ducted 4.1/2" to 6" 25w-40w fan serves ~ 500 sq ft hanging 6" off ceiling, in basements IF NOT RECEIVING RADON GASSES at the low level flooring.
    BUT: THE fan gets dirty in 3-5 years, and although reported over 15% cooling savings and over 20% heating savings in poorly distributed spaces, you do not see many- other than very narrow-aisle paper and item storage facilities that have no use for paddle fly-pushers or changing ducting and tubes with holes, etc.

    Vertical air rotation in for destabilizing humid/tempered-cool air movement is helpful, when applicable.
    I am monitoring VS a/cs and have not been able to find <50%RH with no/low cooling loads when the outdoor dew point is +60^F, occupants in the home, adequate outside air infiltration/ventilation. You must have reheat or supplemental dehumdification to remove the moisture from the high dew point outside infiltration/ventilation air, occcupants, and moisture diffusion into the house. Typically, at 75^F, 50%RH, 55^F dew point, outside air dew point needs to be <50^F to avoid raising indoor %RH.
    Further discussion is needed to explain how an a/c can do this with dramatically over cooling the home. I do have data loggers we could place to confirm.
    If anyone is willing to put the claims in writing and a home owner is willing to trust the claim, they should proceed and keep us posted.
    I have changed mind may times in the past.
    Regards TB
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    NORTHERN
    Posts
    931
    Think you will find more answers then from Pool Pak; Desert Aire; Dectron:

    They notably controll swimming pools enclosed dehumidification @ quite a $ for but to do it perfectly enough.
    2)
    how they do it with out the re-heat nor the hot side of the compressor is what I have done with 3 staged cooling controllers of 2nd and 3rd staging off the DeHumidistat in parallel:::

    A very low cfm/ton first staging compressor on a very oversized cooling coil, off the shelf, a pro can quote... Stage One is regular cooling (also can be 3 staged or part of, alone, but this low cfm option, with COMMON OEM board select (now common) automatically kicks the ecm motors to a lower rpm, and is here described as stage TWO, and a parallel first DeHumidification stage...
    IF
    that doesn't hold to 1/2% humidity control (as done in Computer rooms, shops with precision...even +/- 1/8% controlled)
    THEN
    3rd stage cooling and Second stage DeHumidification (( or 4th stage cooling: VFD and Dual compressors above described))
    is "reheat"
    and before just buying an extra dehumidifyer, why not add then a HT P HW heater and get tech info FROM YOUR PRO or OEM what net BTUh or total heating only btuh can come from a "zone" to a 2 row added HW coil above the furnace outle, all tied in? (day dreamin')
    But the pool re-heat is done also for larger demum apps 3/4 to Tons to 75 tons "off the shelf" from 3 OEM's abovementioned;

    and
    HYDRO-TEMP Corp. (not hyd-delata, not hydrotemp comm hw co) but
    H-T of AR (thru a Pro) - those having the Heat-Recovery Patented HW On-Demand , high mass 100% reheat and more, since 1981;
    and
    Maritime, Glen Kay 's NORDIC GeoThermal, which "off the shelf" thru a Pro, can either be used for GT connected or not GT, like any DesertAire- also allowing "zoning" other fancoil additions from both Hydrozone(tm) of Hydro-Temp, and the Nordic GT- can be normally used...

    Thru a Pro... you may adequately see even a little 1 or 1.5 ton console GT unit regulated for recirculated interior "reheat" as it cools, would even work, as I installed for a NASA Fuel-Cell Research engineer, who also heats his pool with (a console in his living room) without any GT ground loop (nor the 30% tax credit, thru a Pro, per qualifications of a taxpayer).



    QUOTE=teddy bear;16145511]...monitoring VS a/cs and have not been able to find <50%RH with no/low cooling loads when the outdoor dew point is +60^F, occupants in the home, adequate outside air infiltration/ventilation. ....have reheat or supplemental dehumdification ......
    Regards TB[/QUOTE]

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    NORTHERN
    Posts
    931
    that would be Water-cooled equipment in referenced top paragrtaph of 3 pool comfort controllers, heating the pool water OR another heat-sink elsewhere.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    NORTHERN
    Posts
    931
    Very common "off at 34*f and ON at 55*f" compressor and time delays are professionally added for some quicker DeHumidification controlling, and sensor-adjusted in the art of it all.

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