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Thread: Norlake walkin freezer - will not pull down ???

  1. #61
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    Sounds like a Subway?

  2. #62
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    M , M: !
    I tol U !

    make it water cooled and out in GeoT line from Earth- borehole !!!

    What's Norlake say? The techs there have been very helpy 2z.

  3. #63
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    It's a Sapranos pizza place. Almost no one speaks English. Or Hindi. Or Punjabi. And beyond those three - I am lost.

    Norlake claimed to be e-mailing me the wiring drawing today after I gave them the model and serial number. Instead they sent me an email explaining that they couldn't help me until I supplied the model and serial number.

    As I have re-worked it so far it is holding at about +9º F. I have it on three fifteen minute defrosts per twenty four hours. SSH is a little lower than I think prudent but I increased it slightly this morning and will check it tomorrow morning.

    It's been over 90º around here so I have been out gathering the easy money and waiting for some free minutes to get back to this freezer. If Norlake ever gets me the friggin diagram.

    PHM
    ------






    Quote Originally Posted by Snapperhead View Post


    so uhh , hows it going with the wiring


    oh and if you want , you are welcome to use my wheel barrow to haul away the money your gonna make from fixing all their stuff in which your competition left you to sort out ...
    PHM
    --------

    When faced with the choice between changing one's mind, and proving that there is no need to do so, most tend to get busy on the proof.

  4. #64
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    I got here late, but I'd check the fan delay. It should freeze the coil real cold before bringing the fan on. It will cycle a number of times before the box pulls down.

    There isn't enough hp to pull a warm box with product. It can only start cold and empty, then frozen product introduced.

    It will ice up in the warm box quickly. Time how long the defrost needs to be, no longer, set it and defrost 6 times a day. Check pumpdown operation to make sure that it doesn't take too much time out of the defrost cycle.

    Everything has to be perfect. Clean condenser, put a fan up there to circulate air if necessary. No blockage of air flow around the coil by boxed product. You might need to fiddle with the tx valve to not overload the compressor. There will be a setting where it will work, and if it isn't there it won't. Probably not anywhere near what usually works.

    Underpowered freezers are fun. As I said, everything needs to be perfect for them to get even close to working.

  5. #65
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    defrost 6 times a day ?

    I thought the only thing that did that was a residential refrigerator .....

  6. #66
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    Let me catch you up Late-Man

    There is no fan delay.
    I added 50% to the original horsepower.
    The minimum defrost time possible is 15 minutes.
    I have it set for 15 minutes now - three defrosts per day.
    There is no defrost termination either.
    There are no pressure controls, solenoid valves, or pumpdown.
    The TXV limits the compressor loading as it is a ZP
    The condenser was clean when I got it out of the box it came in.

    PHM
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekkite View Post
    I got here late, but I'd check the fan delay. It should freeze the coil real cold before bringing the fan on. It will cycle a number of times before the box pulls down.

    There isn't enough hp to pull a warm box with product. It can only start cold and empty, then frozen product introduced.

    It will ice up in the warm box quickly. Time how long the defrost needs to be, no longer, set it and defrost 6 times a day. Check pumpdown operation to make sure that it doesn't take too much time out of the defrost cycle.

    Everything has to be perfect. Clean condenser, put a fan up there to circulate air if necessary. No blockage of air flow around the coil by boxed product. You might need to fiddle with the tx valve to not overload the compressor. There will be a setting where it will work, and if it isn't there it won't. Probably not anywhere near what usually works.

    Underpowered freezers are fun. As I said, everything needs to be perfect for them to get even close to working.
    PHM
    --------

    When faced with the choice between changing one's mind, and proving that there is no need to do so, most tend to get busy on the proof.

  7. #67
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    Mornin' pull down temp!

    Quote Originally Posted by Poodle Head Mikey View Post
    There is no fan delay.
    I added 50% to the original horse...
    PHM
    --------
    What's id do in just first employee walking in at 5:30 am or whatever I wake up at if I got back to sleep...?

    not a lot of walkins in 9 Subways my co maint.
    that is as problems...

    more simple like tilts of OEM conds pan to get it to drain an other 30% sitting in pan tha dripped elsewhere

    or (I see ya put in clean and new as recounted above)

    But similarly to "not ...down" a 404 lost best rfg with a tiniest-slightest-minutia-ist crack of the compressor rfg line (repaired before I took over maint) , and I supposed , with Norlake Egr, we would be best to start fresh and recharge.

    As late 6-defrost implied, it works...(however- @ only 4 defrosts)

    but that word "should" to me means -"should" only if everything is in place to be happening...(everything-- "should"-- happen)...
    so I never try to intentionally mean "should" unless I mean what your seeing IS what it it simply has of what is all in place to do.

    Curious until you identify why it SHOULD continue to be the way it is,- all, what you have told us.
    of course
    I'll read for your solution.

    Another Q) (pls, ignore if irrelevant)
    What if the evap has an OEM rfg-flow-restrictive defect? Is there some OEM temp diff in the actual reading of the in/out point at say a lab-rat operating condition?
    That was on a Trane 14 SEER A/C coil once, and they sent another coil out to a good end.
    Process cooling: NO COMPRESSORS- just simply Earth-Coupled since 1996
    ... still needs to be hybridized with Earth-loop GTX for energy transfer/ chillin' /or thawin'

    Perhaps you need a 22f Chiller/HW-Heat-Reclaim: buy a GEO-T Heat Pump (GTHP with Heat-Recovery)
    http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?...mal_heat_pumps

    http://www.hydro-temp.com/products.html and Bosch/Carrier/WF DHW while Cooling/Chilling

  8. #68
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    Can you tell me what these sentences mean on standard non-frenetic English ?

    "What's id do in just first employee walking in at 5:30 am or whatever I wake up at if I got back to sleep...?"

    WTH does That mean?

    "not a lot of walkins in 9 Subways my co maint. that is as problems... "

    Say what?

    "more simple like tilts of OEM conds pan to get it to drain an other 30% sitting in pan tha dripped elsewhere"

    So you have to level drain pans in order to get them to drain properly?

    "But similarly to "not ...down" a 404 lost best rfg with a tiniest-slightest-minutia-ist crack of the compressor rfg line (repaired before I took over maint) , and I supposed , with Norlake Egr, we would be best to start fresh and recharge."

    Huh?

    "Curious until you identify why it SHOULD continue to be the way it is,- all, what you have told us."

    What? <g>

    PHM
    ------
    PHM
    --------

    When faced with the choice between changing one's mind, and proving that there is no need to do so, most tend to get busy on the proof.

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT1980 View Post
    What's id do in just first employee walking in at 5:30 am or whatever I wake up at if I got back to sleep...?

    not a lot of walkins in 9 Subways my co maint.
    that is as problems...

    more simple like tilts of OEM conds pan to get it to drain an other 30% sitting in pan tha dripped elsewhere

    or (I see ya put in clean and new as recounted above)

    But similarly to "not ...down" a 404 lost best rfg with a tiniest-slightest-minutia-ist crack of the compressor rfg line (repaired before I took over maint) , and I supposed , with Norlake Egr, we would be best to start fresh and recharge.

    As late 6-defrost implied, it works...(however- @ only 4 defrosts)

    but that word "should" to me means -"should" only if everything is in place to be happening...(everything-- "should"-- happen)...
    so I never try to intentionally mean "should" unless I mean what your seeing IS what it it simply has of what is all in place to do.

    Curious until you identify why it SHOULD continue to be the way it is,- all, what you have told us.
    of course
    I'll read for your solution.

    Another Q) (pls, ignore if irrelevant)
    What if the evap has an OEM rfg-flow-restrictive defect? Is there some OEM temp diff in the actual reading of the in/out point at say a lab-rat operating condition?
    That was on a Trane 14 SEER A/C coil once, and they sent another coil out to a good end.
    What??!!?

  10. #70
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    Pulled from Wikipedia ......

    Gibberish is a generic term in English for talking that sounds like speech, but carries no actual meaning. This meaning has also been extended to meaningless text or gobbledygook. The common theme in gibberish statements is a lack of literal sense, which can be described as a presence of nonsense. Gibberish should not be confused with literary nonsense such as that used in the poem "Jabberwocky" by Lewis Carroll.

  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT1980 View Post
    What's id do in just first employee walking in at 5:30 am or whatever I wake up at if I got back to sleep...?

    not a lot of walkins in 9 Subways my co maint.
    that is as problems...

    more simple like tilts of OEM conds pan to get it to drain an other 30% sitting in pan tha dripped elsewhere

    or (I see ya put in clean and new as recounted above)

    But similarly to "not ...down" a 404 lost best rfg with a tiniest-slightest-minutia-ist crack of the compressor rfg line (repaired before I took over maint) , and I supposed , with Norlake Egr, we would be best to start fresh and recharge.

    As late 6-defrost implied, it works...(however- @ only 4 defrosts)

    but that word "should" to me means -"should" only if everything is in place to be happening...(everything-- "should"-- happen)...
    so I never try to intentionally mean "should" unless I mean what your seeing IS what it it simply has of what is all in place to do.

    Curious until you identify why it SHOULD continue to be the way it is,- all, what you have told us.
    of course
    I'll read for your solution.

    Another Q) (pls, ignore if irrelevant)
    What if the evap has an OEM rfg-flow-restrictive defect? Is there some OEM temp diff in the actual reading of the in/out point at say a lab-rat operating condition?
    That was on a Trane 14 SEER A/C coil once, and they sent another coil out to a good end.
    I got to get this guy to write some of my invoices!

  12. #72
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    Pony ..... is that you ?


  13. #73
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    Could you not just change the TXV?

  14. #74
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    Yes; I could change the TXV -

    Yes; I could just change the TXV.

    What do you suggest?

    And why do you suggest it?

    PHM
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rheeman View Post
    Could you not just change the TXV?
    PHM
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    When faced with the choice between changing one's mind, and proving that there is no need to do so, most tend to get busy on the proof.

  15. #75
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    If the pressure limiting valve is giving you heartache, do away with it. ? You understand what the problem is but there next guy may not? Is that your big concern?

  16. #76
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    Well; I do think a fair amount about the next guy. I assemble things with never-seize, I make a note of any changes made on the wiring diagram, and I leave magic marker notes in general: what I've done, etc.

    In this case I waited until I got the factory wiring diagram (just came today) so that the unit would be as-original and the original diagram will be there on site - for both me next time And for 'the next guy.

    The pressure limiting TXV is there to protect the compressor during warm pull-down. It's either leave it there or install a CPR valve.

    PHM
    -------





    Quote Originally Posted by Rheeman View Post
    If the pressure limiting valve is giving you heartache, do away with it. ? You understand what the problem is but there next guy may not? Is that your big concern?
    PHM
    --------

    When faced with the choice between changing one's mind, and proving that there is no need to do so, most tend to get busy on the proof.

  17. #77
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    He's a Canadian boy from Quebec trying to speak English.

  18. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT1980 View Post
    What's id do in just first employee walking in at 5:30 am or whatever I wake up at if I got back to sleep...?

    not a lot of walkins in 9 Subways my co maint.
    that is as problems...

    more simple like tilts of OEM conds pan to get it to drain an other 30% sitting in pan tha dripped elsewhere

    or (I see ya put in clean and new as recounted above)

    But similarly to "not ...down" a 404 lost best rfg with a tiniest-slightest-minutia-ist crack of the compressor rfg line (repaired before I took over maint) , and I supposed , with Norlake Egr, we would be best to start fresh and recharge.

    As late 6-defrost implied, it works...(however- @ only 4 defrosts)

    but that word "should" to me means -"should" only if everything is in place to be happening...(everything-- "should"-- happen)...
    so I never try to intentionally mean "should" unless I mean what your seeing IS what it it simply has of what is all in place to do.

    Curious until you identify why it SHOULD continue to be the way it is,- all, what you have told us.
    of course
    I'll read for your solution.

    Another Q) (pls, ignore if irrelevant)
    What if the evap has an OEM rfg-flow-restrictive defect? Is there some OEM temp diff in the actual reading of the in/out point at say a lab-rat operating condition?
    That was on a Trane 14 SEER A/C coil once, and they sent another coil out to a good end.
    GT1980, run this thru the inter-galactic translator (like you did for me).

    I find that GT1980, when firing on all cylinders, warrents listening.

  19. #79
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    I apologize, haven't read full thread. Sorry if these are old ideas. Have you made sure everything is sized correctly for the box/ wall thickness? Is there a stat/ solenoid? What about a door switch? Suction line heat exchanger? Power head an SZ? As long as you have superheat, the comp should be ok
    Last edited by Rwilson404; 07-11-2013 at 12:32 AM. Reason: Wasn't done

  20. #80
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    Well; after my first glance I started off with the late night hip-shoot "diagnosis" that the TXV was defective / not feeding. So I checked the compressor HP (1/2 HP) and then chose a 1/4 ton valve because that is about what flows enough BTU's at a -10º F. suction. When replacing it I found that the "bad" TXV was both the exact same valve AND was clearly very new. <g>

    I called the box maker; Norlake and got the original specs: 1/2 HP K body Copeland compressor - they did not know which one they had used.

    The almost-new compressor was then found to be rated from -40º to 0º F. That was the second WTF moment.

    The ZP valve would only feed to a 50 lb. suction. This took very little refrigerant in the warm evaporator coil. The resulting refrigeration effect was very small. So the box stayed too warm to ever let the suction pressure reduce enough to allow the TXV to feed more refrigerant. A catch-22 loop.

    1. I have never in my life seen a Norlake box which would do what it was rated to do.
    2. A half horse compressor is what should be on a single door reach-in freezer - not on a six by six walk-in.
    3. A 3/4 HP -10º condensing unit was less expensive than the correct 1/2 HP K body - and plus; the old condenser was filthy with gummed on fryer grease that I had no interest in touching.

    So I installed the 3/4 HP Copeland tin can condensing unit the customer needed.

    This worked better but subsequently it was discovered that on an earlier visit by one of the others in my peer group the system had been improved by eliminating the fan delay, the defrost termination, and all the wiring associated with them. And they also set up the box for four 45 minute, time-terminated defrosts per day. I found to my painful surprise that this both increases the evaporator to a skin-blistering heat level And also serves to heat the box substantially when the fans come on as soon as the defrost times out.

    I don't have a whole life to continually devote to this project so at this point I have the larger condensing unit holding the box temperature at about 9º F. using four 15 minute minute time-only defrosts per day.

    As soon as I get some free early morning time I am going to rewire the system to re-include fan delay and evap coil temperature termination of defrost.

    That will not be today however. <g>

    BTW: This is a Norlake box. Norlake is a company which apparently dismisses such frivolities as sufficient wall thickness, solenoid valves, a door switch, and a suction line heat exchanger.

    PHM
    ------


    Quote Originally Posted by Rwilson404 View Post
    I apologize, haven't read full thread. Sorry if these are old ideas. Have you made sure everything is sized correctly for the box/ wall thickness? Is there a stat/ solenoid? What about a door switch? Suction line heat exchanger? Power head an SZ? As long as you have superheat, the comp should be ok
    PHM
    --------

    When faced with the choice between changing one's mind, and proving that there is no need to do so, most tend to get busy on the proof.

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