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  1. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Mid-Mo
    Posts
    3,596
    Quote Originally Posted by craig1 View Post
    Do you have anything in the cooler? If there's no product inside the temp will swing all over the place
    Very true.

  2. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    working overtime
    Posts
    850
    Quote Originally Posted by icemeister View Post
    I think that filter-drier is the original. The bad brazing job is typical of True.

    For a replacement drier I prefer the Sporlan C032-CAP-T.
    i had the same unit that was given to me when it broke. i had the same problems. i got tired of fiddling with it so i junked it.

  3. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    3,224
    Name:  0625131933.jpg
Views: 145
Size:  58.0 KB

    Well guess what , while adjusting the little screws on the thermostat , i figured i better leak check coil while in there , since it obviously has a leak , seeing how the drier was not the issue.

    Found it pitted pretty good where the cap tube was brazed in

    Too many pits on both sides to repair on the stub , it would have been nearly impossible to mend , so i ripped out the top tube as you can see to get some fresh copper ( go on ... applaud me for the wonderful snipping job ) and did what i had to do.

    p.s .... the outter tube you see there still open , was not part of the coil , it is for structural support i guess

    Sad part is , i will never be able to charge the amount of time i have in this thing. Im sure if its over 2 bills they will say keep the durn thing. Hmmph

  4. #30
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    799
    Learning to tell the difference between a clogged cap tube and a low charge would have been worth a lot to time in this instance!

  5. #31
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    3,224
    yea i know , and my mistake was thinking logic ..... blanket of lint on coil made cap tube wax up .... NOT

    oh well , next time i dont assume

    Good part is , I would have replaced drier anyway as old as it was

  6. #32
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    12,701
    Nice looking repair. If it doesn't leak - you have done well.

    Getting paid is good - but learning is often priceless as no one can ever take that away from you.

    Charge them full price. If they decline, and you cannot convince - then turn it up to 50 and keep your white wine in it.

    PHM
    -------




    Quote Originally Posted by Snapperhead View Post
    Name:  0625131933.jpg
Views: 145
Size:  58.0 KB

    Well guess what , while adjusting the little screws on the thermostat , i figured i better leak check coil while in there , since it obviously has a leak , seeing how the drier was not the issue.

    Found it pitted pretty good where the cap tube was brazed in

    Too many pits on both sides to repair on the stub , it would have been nearly impossible to mend , so i ripped out the top tube as you can see to get some fresh copper ( go on ... applaud me for the wonderful snipping job ) and did what i had to do.

    p.s .... the outter tube you see there still open , was not part of the coil , it is for structural support i guess

    Sad part is , i will never be able to charge the amount of time i have in this thing. Im sure if its over 2 bills they will say keep the durn thing. Hmmph
    PHM
    --------
    The conventional view serves to protect us from the painful job of thinking.

  7. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    3,224
    Pffft ... zinfandel for the wife , Samuel adams summer for me

    This morning after little tuning of the t-stat , 80 ambient , compressor shell 138 , drier 113 , low side 12 , kicking off 28.4 , kick on 44

    Thats some nice cold coke right there !

    But is that correct swing temps ?

  8. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    swan valley idaho
    Posts
    728
    pretty big differential. if u cant adjust it any better and want to sink another 60 dollars in it the a12-701 ranco will cut in at 41 out about 32-34 and has some slight adjustment too

  9. #35
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    3,224
    on the ranco , i see 2 screws , "in" and "out"

    I turned the out screw towards the hotter 1/4 turn , and the in screw 1/4 colder , last night

    How much can i turn them ? and is that correct way .....

  10. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    4,123
    Temp shouldn't get above 40*. Might just want to go with a new cold control.

  11. #37
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    799
    If you don't have a lot of product in the box, it might go above 40 before cut-in.

  12. #38
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Western, MO
    Posts
    871
    Stop playing with the cold control.

    You're still under charged.

    Nice job on the evap repair.

    jim
    Common sense isn't very common anymore.

  13. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    3,224
    ( sorry jim , i already played with stat screws ) i have it set now comming on at 38 and off at 31 with the knob on 3

    so the low side is still a bit too low at 12 ? Need a tiny squirt ....

    Whats a good low side

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