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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    3,179
    Name:  0624132142.jpg
Views: 129
Size:  47.3 KB

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    3,179
    Name:  0624132155.jpg
Views: 107
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  3. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    The Frozen Tundra
    Posts
    3,764
    True GDM-7

    Has a Tecumseh AE530AT-726-A4 1/5hp

    Specifies Cap Tube as 10' of 0.042id

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    3,179
    well alrighty then , cool thanks

    where do these little gems like to leak ?

    im adding shraders in the morning , a drier with port because Poodle will yell if I dont , and then pressurizing

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Chicagoland Area
    Posts
    4,626
    Quote Originally Posted by Snapperhead View Post
    where do these little gems like to leak ?
    It's a True. They either leak in the evap u-tubes or accumulator.
    Officially, Down for the count

    YOU HAVE TO GET OFF YOUR ASS TO GET ON YOUR FEET

    I know enough to know, I don't know enough
    Liberalism-Ideas so good they mandate them

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Guayaquil EC
    Posts
    10,370
    I think that filter-drier is the original. The bad brazing job is typical of True.

    For a replacement drier I prefer the Sporlan C032-CAP-T.

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Posts
    447
    If that calls for a 10' cap tube, where is the rest of it rolled up? That cap tube in the pic does not look factory but the dryer does.

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    12,548
    Here's what I would do -

    OPTION 1
    The compressor runs
    The condenser fan runs
    The evap fan runs
    So first hose the whole thing out, especially the cond coil, with a garden hose so you're not working on some yakked up pos.
    Let it dry
    Then remove the drier
    Make sure nitrogen pressure comes through the cap tube
    Silphos a access valve onto the compressor's stub
    Replace the drier with one with an access valve on it.
    Pressurize to 150 with nitrogen. Leave overnight.
    If the pressure falls by morning - find the leak(s)
    If you can't find the leaks - evac, add some dye, and charge to ambient plus 30
    Let it run for a few days and then look for dye traces

    OPTION 2

    Give it to the scrap man and get back to work

    PHM
    -------






    Quote Originally Posted by Snapperhead View Post
    like 3 foot tall , glass door , 134 10 oz

    customer had me take a peek while fixing a deli case

    No access ports ofcourse and i didnt have any pierce valves

    Cond had a small blanket of fur , cleaned that off

    Feeling around , the line line off compressor is kinda hot going to cond, and the compressor shell kinda hot as well , but the tube bends on the cond are ambient at top and bottom.

    drier has been replaced before judging by the aweful braze job , and its slightly cooler than ambient to touch

    all fans working fine

    I guess its time for another drier and cut out few inches of cap tube ?
    PHM
    --------
    The conventional view serves to protect us from the painful job of thinking.

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    3,179
    i didnt leave nitro in all night because i have missplaced my gauge i use for testing

    Both coils clean

    replaced drier with one i had on truck forever 032 ( no port ) added shrader to the stub on shell , cut 6 inches of cap just incase ...

    added 7 oz and low side was at 5 , so i gave a squirt more and jumped to 20 , then settled out and its hanging around 12 psi

    amping 3.8 (RLA 4.4 on label )

    pulled down to temp within 15 min , sweet

    its 88 outside and humid on the porch , discharge line is 160 deg , drier filter 115 deg , box 29 degrees inside when it shuts off , then comes on at 48 degrees

    the knob was on 1

    moved knob to 5

    shut off at 27 deg , on at 48

    moved knob to 4

    shuts off at 29.7 , on at 48

    Need a new stat ?

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    swan valley idaho
    Posts
    727
    you can adjust a little if its a ranco. otherwise get a a12-1506 for 38 cut in, or a12-701 for 41 cut in

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Eugene, Oregon
    Posts
    1,018
    deleted
    "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten". --Benjamin Franklin
    "Don't argue with an idiot, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience". --Mark Twain
    http://www.campbellmechanical.com

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Posts
    447
    Why didn't you charge 10ozs.? 12 psi with 134 is too low. I think you will be starving the evap with a heat load in the box.

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Chicago, IL
    Posts
    4,435
    Do you have anything in the cooler? If there's no product inside the temp will swing all over the place

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