ReplyAnd no primer...
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Installed a new system and it wouldn't drain correctly. After 4 times out there we found the problem. Somebody (probably me) got crazy with the glue putting a coupling on.
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not sure what I am seeing in pix 2.
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PVC glue made a "wall" and stopped up the drain line
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Originally Posted by Bmvbrfd
Installed a new system and it wouldn't drain correctly. After 4 times out there we found the problem. Somebody (probably me) got crazy with the glue putting a coupling on.
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What did you guys do on the 3 previous visits?
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1st time we installed it. 2nd time I figured maybe I forgot to clean the line and that's what the problem was so I blew the drain line a put some bleach in it. Checked it with a level and it was good. I don't know who went the 3rd time. The boss went the 4th and found it.
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I had that happen once when I used some PVC cement that had started to gel up in the can.
It was the only can of PVC cement I had in my truck, so I tried to get by with it, and the universe punished me for it.
I also very strongly recommend the use of primer/cleaner, as the PVC joints do not form the proper bond when just PVC cement is used.
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Heck Mark, sometimes they don't even use pvc cement..I had that happen once when I used some PVC cement that had started to gel up in the can.
It was the only can of PVC cement I had in my truck, so I tried to get by with it, and the universe punished me for it.
I also very strongly recommend the use of primer/cleaner, as the PVC joints do not form the proper bond when just PVC cement is used.
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I see that a lot too, and they hold together for years.Heck Mark, sometimes they don't even use pvc cement..
I'm 100% certain the universe would punish me harshly if I ever left an unglued connection.
My personal favorite thing I have seen people do is mix the primer/cleaner and glue together.
The other one is the blue PVC cement that the supply houses sell as "not requiring primer/cleaner."
If you read the can, the manufacturer clearly states to use primer/cleaner with it on everything but PVC ELECTRICAL CONDUIT!
A few years of cooking in a Texas attic tends to do a number on improperly prepped/cemented PVC condensate drain connections.
It isn't uncommon for me to be able to disassemble most of the joints in a drain buy just wiggling and twisting the pipe when just cement was used to put them together, with no primer/cleaner.
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We dont glue condensate drains on RTU's, so we can take the trap off in the winter at the fall service. The trap would just freeze and break in the winter anyway. So we glue the trap, but not the trap to adapter connection. At the fall service, we just pull the trap off the unit and put it in the compressor chamber. Then on the spring service, we put it back on.Heck Mark, sometimes they don't even use pvc cement..
Not a perfect solution, but better than rebuilding traps every year.
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Cool. Thanks Mark.
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Haha, that's called "hot mix" and no it doesn't work : )... case anybody is getting any ideas.
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Here it is, no tradition trap needed, never have to worry about a broken trap from freezing.
A picture tells a thousand words, but the particulars; if you don't want the condensate spilling right next to where you might be working a tee can be installed at the top of the cup with fittings to redirect the condensate.
“You don't get paid for the hour. You get paid for the value you bring to the hour.” Jim Rohn
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"Unpurple primer" is the only way to go. The rectorseal traps are against plumbing code as is relies on a "mechanical fitting" but most jurisdictions will allow it. We have one that will allow us to use them in attic spaces if tied into the sewer vent but not into the sewer in the basement.
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It says a lot when your willing to post your mistakes on here.
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Glue on the pipe. Not in the fitting.
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