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Thread: Duke steam table
02-28-2007, 06:01 PM #1
Duke steam table
Model #E305M...never worked on a steam table...I do the refrigeration and a/c at this resturant...anyway one control is either on hi or on off, no adjustment in between...is this called an infinity control and not a temperature control?..and how does this infinity control work...they were too busy to remove the front cover so I will have to return with the right control if I can locate one..thanks guysIt is time for all good men to come to the aid of their country, for we are in deep crap.
02-28-2007, 11:00 PM #2
Page 1833 of the Johnstone supply catalog #197L you have to know if it's 110 or 220.
110 part # is F16-713
220 part # is F16-514
These are the two popular controls but this will get you in the right area of the catatlog anyhow.
CW."I don't care what you could get it off the net for, they wont warranty it and neither will I"!
And if you don't like my "flat rate up front pricing" try and negotiate the price on that big mac you just bought pricing is exactly the same method!
03-01-2007, 05:25 AM #3
Hey, thanks CW...It is time for all good men to come to the aid of their country, for we are in deep crap.
03-02-2007, 08:10 PM #4
Take it apart, it's pretty cool
An infinite control works off of a internal bi-metal heater. The knob will show
Hi, Off, Low with numbers in between Hi and Low. It is rated to 15 amps but they rarely go bad internally. They burn up from bad wire terminal connections.
As the knob is turned from Off to Low the bi-metal heats up until it bends which breaks the internal power contacts. As it cools the bi-metal returns to it's original shape which closes the contacts. The higher the number the further the bi-metal has to move to break the contacts. In Hi it will not break the contacts.
Be sure to use only hi temp spade terminals and hi temp wire. On the back you will find L1, P, L2 on the top and H1 and H2 on the bottom.
Power to L1, Pilot light to P and power or neutral to L2.
One side of the element to H1 and the other to H2.
Be careful working with OEM Hatco as H1 and L2 are reversed.
Last edited by Dad; 03-02-2007 at 08:29 PM. Reason: spelling
03-02-2007, 08:53 PM #5Professional Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2003
I carry them in the truck for toasters and such, but always wondered why they call them infinity switches or controls. Any ideas?
03-03-2007, 06:27 AM #6
Thanks Lusker...picked one up fri...got to work around the kitchen staff and pull the front cover, looks simple enough....appreciate the infoIt is time for all good men to come to the aid of their country, for we are in deep crap.
03-06-2007, 08:55 PM #7Professional Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
- South Bend, In.
It's robert shaws site if you can get one of their product books it'll help woking on thses units.So you didn't ask, what you though was a stupid question. Now how, are you going to tell the boss about your stupid screw up?
03-07-2007, 05:40 AM #8
thanks ND.....good info thereIt is time for all good men to come to the aid of their country, for we are in deep crap.
04-08-2007, 09:21 AM #9
Hi I found that the duke cap tube style t-stat's are to expensive to replace. I recommend the infinite heat switch from robertshaw. part# 6500-25 (120 volt) or 6500-208 (208/240 volt) very eazy to install.They work on voltage resisitance. You will also need a control knob for the new control as well.
04-08-2007, 10:11 AM #10
Amen to the expense
04-08-2007, 06:41 PM #11
07-20-2007, 03:17 PM #12Regular Guest
- Join Date
- Sep 2006
Be careful, if you have more than one control, and they are wired to a single pilot light, you can blow all the controls if you reverse L1 and L2 from one contol to another. Been there done that!
08-05-2007, 11:23 PM #13
Infinite because they can be set anywhere between low and infinity. Make sure the switch is turned upright for the vent, and the robertshaw version is a cheapo, they often burn up internally, usually by the casing overheating and falling apart."Fighting Ignorance since 1973 (Its taking longer than we thought)." The Straight Dope.