What is the best way to leak test the evap. tube and shell and condenser of an air cooled McQuay ? Model ? Don't know. It is a recip. four compresors and 10 years old . A co-worker of mine did it his way ,and I was wondering if it was the best way. It looks like an IED was detonated when he was done.
remove all your refrig.then isolate the evap water to the barrel DRAIN ITblow out with NITRO any leftover water.unit is just above atmospheric(fart)shut the king valve and the discharge service valve all the way in (back seat).then take 2 good VAC PUMPS and pull each side of the system.king to discharge HI....and compressor back out thru suction into evap to the other side of the King LO.do it over night and see if the VACS are in the 250 MILL range the next day.to quick check the evap on the return slowly open the evap drain cock with your thumb on it and see if there is a slight vac if it suck in to the slightest the tube sheet and or tubes are leaking.go directly into the sides with copper from the vac pump and install a vac guage on each side.
First remember the water is in the tubes on a chiller barrel and the refrigerant is outside tubes (opposite of a water cooled condenser).
shut down pumps >> valve off chiller barrel >> Drain Chiller Barrel >> test for leak at top of chiller where you vented to drain ( a small leak could take a while before you start detecting it make sure refrigerant pressure is up)>>If you found the leak there it means your tubes or a gasket is leaking. If no leak internal then time to pull the insulation off the head where the water pipes go in and out >>> check around there next that is where the tube shell gaskets and bell is....
If I did a leak test on this chiller with N2 @ 100psi, if there was leak in the tube bundle, would there be an increase in the psi of the chw loop, if the loop was not isolated during the test ? Its gotta go some where
If I did a leak test on this chiller with N2 @ 100psi, if there was leak in the tube bundle, would there be an increase in the psi of the chw loop, if the loop was not isolated during the test ? Its gotta go some where
I would say no , I am sure you have either an expansion or compression tank that if properly sized it would take up the nitogen that leaked out during test... you would really need to isolate the chiller barrel (and drain) to verify if the leak was internal to the chiller barrel. Keep in mind this is a small leak and after you leak tested you still had pressure in the system(correct????) otherwise the refrigerant circut would be under water and more then likely the compressor would be grounded...
I agree HVACJOEK. Depending on what refrigerant it is. Low pressure/ high pressure? Drain the water let it sit over night. Then in the morning put your leak detector on the vent valve and open it. If you tubes are leaking it will go off.
First remember the water is in the tubes on a chiller barrel and the refrigerant is outside tubes (opposite of a water cooled condenser).
shut down pumps >> valve off chiller barrel >> Drain Chiller Barrel >> test for leak at top of chiller where you vented to drain ( a small leak could take a while before you start detecting it make sure refrigerant pressure is up)>>If you found the leak there it means your tubes or a gasket is leaking. If no leak internal then time to pull the insulation off the head where the water pipes go in and out >>> check around there next that is where the tube shell gaskets and bell is....
Water is in the tubes of a flooded chiller barrell, not a dx chiller barrell.
I WILL SELL WORK,GENERATE BUSINESS, GO GET NEW CUSTOMERS!
YOU SHUT THE HELL UP AND QUIT RUNNING YOUR MOUTH!
If its a small leak it still may not be found. On dx barrels when we fill back up from drain we check again at top chiller t-stat well hoping to move leak up.
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Originally Posted by socal13
