Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 14 to 22 of 22
  1. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    The Hot South
    Posts
    1,207
    Quote Originally Posted by Driverfound View Post
    I have also received a quote for a Danfoss at about 2/3rds the price.
    I would stick with the compressor from Trane. Since there are multiple compressors in tandem on the same circuit, there is an orifice plate that goes in the suction line of the compressor. It is critical that this orifice is right or you will have oil return problems and possibly loose the replacement compressor. I'm not sure how that would work out using a non OEM compressor.

    Quote Originally Posted by Driverfound View Post
    The other option one of our quotes gave was to remove that compressor, cap off it's connections, and run it with 3 compressors instead of four. Would that be a reasonable temporary fix to get us through this season, until we can afford to replace that compressor?
    I don't see that as a problem as long as it is done in a way that won't cause oil return problems to the remaining compressors. Also, it would need to be done in a way that doesn't affect the hot gas and suction manifolds. When you eventually replace the compressor, that orifice plate will need to be reinstalled and the piping will need to be exactly the way it was originally. In the end, it's going to cost you a lot more money than if you just replace the compressor now.

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    24,998

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    The Hot South
    Posts
    1,207
    Quote Originally Posted by jpsmith1cm View Post
    servicetrane

    Please review the AOP Forum rules before posting.

    Those rules can be found here.

    Thanks,

    AOPC
    He doesn't speak English and uses a translator program. You may want to be more specific.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    24,998
    Quote Originally Posted by R123 View Post
    He doesn't speak English and uses a translator program. You may want to be more specific.
    This will be interesting.

    Thanks for the heads up, R123.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    East Rochester, NY
    Posts
    44
    Quote Originally Posted by R123 View Post
    I would stick with the compressor from Trane. Since there are multiple compressors in tandem on the same circuit, there is an orifice plate that goes in the suction line of the compressor. It is critical that this orifice is right or you will have oil return problems and possibly loose the replacement compressor. I'm not sure how that would work out using a non OEM compressor.



    I don't see that as a problem as long as it is done in a way that won't cause oil return problems to the remaining compressors. Also, it would need to be done in a way that doesn't affect the hot gas and suction manifolds. When you eventually replace the compressor, that orifice plate will need to be reinstalled and the piping will need to be exactly the way it was originally. In the end, it's going to cost you a lot more money than if you just replace the compressor now.
    I figured as much when it comes to the ultimate cost. I am definitely 100% for the replacement of that compressor. Now I just have to convince the head honcho. I just got a price to do the cap off and removal of the leaking compressor, and it is not far off from the replacement price. That'll definitely help my argument. I had not thought about the price of R-22 being as big a factor as it is until it was mentioned here. Yikes! Anyway, Thanks for all the advice guys...I'll let you know what we decide.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    East Rochester, NY
    Posts
    44
    Well, we bit the bullet. The paperwork has been signed, now we're just waiting for parts to arrive, so they can start on the compressor replacement. They are also going to clean up the 3 remaining compressors, and re-paint that joint with some epoxy-based coating of some sort. Thanks for the help guys!

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Flat Rock, NC
    Posts
    463
    Sad when someone could have brazed that right up w/ flux and 45% silver. Have done this many times w/o ever having issues. Have any of you actually seen whats behind that shell at that point? The factory welded it why can't you?

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    The Hot South
    Posts
    1,207
    Quote Originally Posted by codgy View Post
    Sad when someone could have brazed that right up w/ flux and 45% silver. Have done this many times w/o ever having issues. Have any of you actually seen whats behind that shell at that point? The factory welded it why can't you?
    Yes, and when the factory welded it, it wasn't rusted out. I've done this before but when it's rusted as bad as it was in the pic, there's a good chance it's going to leak.

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Orange County N.Y.
    Posts
    1,176
    Naval jelly does wonderful things when it comes to removing pockets and pits of rust. I wouldn't give any guarantee on the repair for any length of time, though I have done plenty of these type of repairs that have lasted until the day the equipment left on its last trip. They never look pretty.

    ...Ron
    Roof Rat

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Comfortech Show Promo Image

Related Forums

Plumbing Talks | Contractor Magazine
Forums | Electrical Construction & Maintenance (EC&M) Magazine
Comfortech365 Virtual Event