Trane Compressor Leak...Is it fixable?

[Driverfound]

Hi all,

We have a Trane CGWD050GCONT101 Chiller in our building. One of the two circuits is down at the moment, as the 15 ton compressor (Model CSHS150J0HOF) has a rather large leak on the suction fitting, which is pretty rusty. My question is this: Is it possible to repair just the suction fitting? All the quotes we have received so far have been to replace the entire compressor, at a very large expense. I just want to know if it is even possible to repair it, as that seems like it would cost less than replacing the whole (otherwise perfectly good) compressor. The model they have quoted for replacement is a CSHA150R0*00. I have also received a quote for a Danfoss at about 2/3rds the price.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

-Mike

[toocoolforschool]

Ya don't want to go cheap on this one.

[Driverfound]

That's what I thought, but I need to convince the guy that pays the bills Any good arguments for why a hermetic compressor cannot be repaired? My thoughts would be that there isn't an easy way to do it that I can see that wouldn't result in metal shavings or welding spatter ending up inside the shell...

The other option one of our quotes gave was to remove that compressor, cap off it's connections, and run it with 3 compressors instead of four. Would that be a reasonable temporary fix to get us through this season, until we can afford to replace that compressor?

[servicetrane]

need to change the compressor!

[second opinion]

Hi all,

We have a Trane CGWD050GCONT101 Chiller in our building. One of the two circuits is down at the moment, as the 15 ton compressor (Model CSHS150J0HOF) has a rather large leak on the suction fitting, which is pretty rusty. My question is this: Is it possible to repair just the suction fitting? All the quotes we have received so far have been to replace the entire compressor, at a very large expense. I just want to know if it is even possible to repair it, as that seems like it would cost less than replacing the whole (otherwise perfectly good) compressor. The model they have quoted for replacement is a CSHA150R0*00. I have also received a quote for a Danfoss at about 2/3rds the price.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

-Mike

Can you post pictures of leak location?

[Driverfound]

I'll go get some pictures on my way out, and post them tonight...It seems to be a pinhole type leak on the underside of the suction fitting on the compressor...It was pretty badly rusted. My other concern is what shape the other three compressors are in if that one was so bad.

[DeltaTech]

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[jpsmith1cm]

servicetech

Please check your PMs.

Thanks, AOPC

[jpsmith1cm]

DeltaTech

This is the Ask Our Pro's forum. In order to post a response here, you must have verified qualifications and have been approved by the AOP Committee. You may ask a question by starting a new thread.

You can find the rules for posting and qualifications here.

Additional infractions may result in loss of posting privileges.

[Driverfound]

Here are some pictures of the leak area on Compressor 'C.' The leak itself is on the underside of this fitting, right smack in the middle.

[R123]

I don't see any way to repair that without replacing the compressor. The steel is too rusty. If by chance someone was able to stop the leak, don't expect the repair to last long. R22 is too expensive to be messing around with this. If I was the tech looking at this, compressor replacement would be the only option I would give you.

[servicetrane]

there is really no other option, replace the compressor

[Nuclrchiller]

I don't see any way to repair that without replacing the compressor. The steel is too rusty. If by chance someone was able to stop the leak, don't expect the repair to last long. R22 is too expensive to be messing around with this. If I was the tech looking at this, compressor replacement would be the only option I would give you.

Reading this thread, I was on the fence, waiting for pics. Not any more. The reminder of R22 prices is the ol' nail in the coffin.

[R123]

I have also received a quote for a Danfoss at about 2/3rds the price.

I would stick with the compressor from Trane. Since there are multiple compressors in tandem on the same circuit, there is an orifice plate that goes in the suction line of the compressor. It is critical that this orifice is right or you will have oil return problems and possibly loose the replacement compressor. I'm not sure how that would work out using a non OEM compressor.

The other option one of our quotes gave was to remove that compressor, cap off it's connections, and run it with 3 compressors instead of four. Would that be a reasonable temporary fix to get us through this season, until we can afford to replace that compressor?

I don't see that as a problem as long as it is done in a way that won't cause oil return problems to the remaining compressors. Also, it would need to be done in a way that doesn't affect the hot gas and suction manifolds. When you eventually replace the compressor, that orifice plate will need to be reinstalled and the piping will need to be exactly the way it was originally. In the end, it's going to cost you a lot more money than if you just replace the compressor now.

[jpsmith1cm]

servicetrane

Please review the AOP Forum rules before posting.

Those rules can be found here.

Thanks,

AOPC

[R123]

servicetrane

Please review the AOP Forum rules before posting.

Those rules can be found here.

Thanks,

AOPC

He doesn't speak English and uses a translator program. You may want to be more specific.

[jpsmith1cm]

He doesn't speak English and uses a translator program. You may want to be more specific.

This will be interesting.

Thanks for the heads up, R123.

[Driverfound]

I would stick with the compressor from Trane. Since there are multiple compressors in tandem on the same circuit, there is an orifice plate that goes in the suction line of the compressor. It is critical that this orifice is right or you will have oil return problems and possibly loose the replacement compressor. I'm not sure how that would work out using a non OEM compressor.



I don't see that as a problem as long as it is done in a way that won't cause oil return problems to the remaining compressors. Also, it would need to be done in a way that doesn't affect the hot gas and suction manifolds. When you eventually replace the compressor, that orifice plate will need to be reinstalled and the piping will need to be exactly the way it was originally. In the end, it's going to cost you a lot more money than if you just replace the compressor now.

I figured as much when it comes to the ultimate cost. I am definitely 100% for the replacement of that compressor. Now I just have to convince the head honcho. I just got a price to do the cap off and removal of the leaking compressor, and it is not far off from the replacement price. That'll definitely help my argument. I had not thought about the price of R-22 being as big a factor as it is until it was mentioned here. Yikes! Anyway, Thanks for all the advice guys...I'll let you know what we decide.

[Driverfound]

Well, we bit the bullet. The paperwork has been signed, now we're just waiting for parts to arrive, so they can start on the compressor replacement. They are also going to clean up the 3 remaining compressors, and re-paint that joint with some epoxy-based coating of some sort. Thanks for the help guys!

[codgy]

Sad when someone could have brazed that right up w/ flux and 45% silver. Have done this many times w/o ever having issues. Have any of you actually seen whats behind that shell at that point? The factory welded it why can't you?