Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 13 of 24
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    swan valley idaho
    Posts
    727

    copeland roto lock/service valve

    hey guys, got the good ol wrong parts today for a walk in tomorrow.
    changing a compressor on a walk in. New compressor was supposed to have a roto lock, but they sent wrong one. I'm thinking i will have to just cut out old sweat/sweat OEM service valve and re-use at this point. I was thinking cut out because looks like steel or aluminum valve going to copper suction line and looks like a pita to sweat out and re-use.
    what do you guys think? go for it and just cut off with short stubs still attached so i can sweat copper to copper, or should i try and sweat old lines out of valve and re-use. If i mess up valve at all i'm screwed- no parts till Monday afternoon, and freezer is full. ya!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Guayaquil EC
    Posts
    10,370
    If it's a Copeland C-Series compressor, the original likely has a Rotolok adapter brazed onto the compressor's suction stub elbow and the service replacement you got doesn't. Am I correct so far?

    I have had some decent luck getting the existing Rotoloks apart using heat and reusing the adapter, but of course, if you don't have the right size Teflon seal ring to put it back together, don't bother.

    Lacking any alternative, I usually just eliminate the suction service valve, pipe the suction direct and add a suction access valve to the process stub. That'll get you going. If you want to do it right, then order the correct parts, go back to install them and get the customer to pay for it all.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    swan valley idaho
    Posts
    727
    right now valve is sweat by sweat. copeland hermetic, small 90 degree elbow at compressor, sweated into valve, then suction line sweated into other side of valve. 7/8 line. im worried if i try to sweat apart i may damage valve. thats why i was thinking to cut it out with short stubs of copper left on both sides, then couple to new compressor. current set up is not a roto lock it is sweat/sweat. kolpack original from 2001. RSD says new compressor will use roto lock?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Guayaquil EC
    Posts
    10,370
    Then I'd just pipe it direct. If you want to get fancy, add a ball valve.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    swan valley idaho
    Posts
    727
    the new rota locks look like aluminum or some kind of coated material. do you know what they are made of? I'm sure flux and silver solder would work to join the dissimilar metals?

    i like the idea of piping direct except my lp control connection and low side gauge connection are both part of the valve. It's always something.....

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    wedged in freezer shelf
    Posts
    6,749
    I saw the title and thought you guys might get a kick out of this one



    “If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball”

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Guayaquil EC
    Posts
    10,370
    Quote Originally Posted by kklobas View Post
    the new rota locks look like aluminum or some kind of coated material. do you know what they are made of? I'm sure flux and silver solder would work to join the dissimilar metals?

    i like the idea of piping direct except my lp control connection and low side gauge connection are both part of the valve. It's always something.....
    Doesn't the new compressor have a suction process stub connection? If not, just burn in a couple of access valves to the suction line.

    You gotta get creative.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Guayaquil EC
    Posts
    10,370

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    583
    Quote Originally Posted by kklobas View Post
    the new rota locks look like aluminum or some kind of coated material. do you know what they are made of? I'm sure flux and silver solder would work to join the dissimilar metals?

    i like the idea of piping direct except my lp control connection and low side gauge connection are both part of the valve. It's always something.....
    sounds like a swivel tee will take care of that, my preferred method for attaching pressure controls when there aren't additional ports available. I always keep one of each style in my fitting box.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    DFW, TX
    Posts
    673
    The service valves are steel. Use flux and 45%. Yes they are kind of difficult to braze. You must sand the steel and the copper to be perfectly clean. Then apply silver brazing flux and braze with the 45%. No you definitely will not want to try to unbraze an old service valve. It may be possible, but in my experience they are usually rusted, and it is near impossible to clean it away to be good enough to braze with the 45%.

    In your case, if the new compressor is sweat, just direct pipe it and eliminate the service valve as Icemeister suggested, and install an access valve on the compressor service port for access. Or if the new compressor doesn't have a suction process port, install a 7/8" tee on the suction line and reduce it down to 3/8" or whatever size your access valves are.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    florida
    Posts
    5,512
    Quote Originally Posted by itsiceman View Post
    I saw the title and thought you guys might get a kick out of this one




    I love the smell of phosgene first thing in the morning:

    To apply for professional membership click here


    Educational forums are open.

    If you would like to submit a link or an article or other related info to the EF. click here

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Western New York
    Posts
    1,049
    Quote Originally Posted by icemeister View Post
    I have had some decent luck getting the existing Rotoloks apart using heat and reusing the adapter, but of course, if you don't have the right size Teflon seal ring to put it back together, don't bother.
    FWIW- I have found that if you don't have a replacement teflon O-ring, you can carefully pull the old one out with a fine pick, flip it over and use the "ungroved" surface. This has worked for me every time I have had to do it. I try to carry a supply of various sized replacements, but they are tough to find at many supply houses.
    Experience is what you have an hour after you need it.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Chicagoland Area
    Posts
    4,627
    and, in a pinch if you get a rotolok pump and needed sweat and the boss won't order a rotolok valve because it was already quoted, or there are no valves available it is possible to sweat copper into the steel nipple off the compressor. 45% and flux will work. Looks a little prettier than the pic of the k-body
    Officially, Down for the count

    YOU HAVE TO GET OFF YOUR ASS TO GET ON YOUR FEET

    I know enough to know, I don't know enough
    Liberalism-Ideas so good they mandate them

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Comfortech Show Promo Image

Related Forums

Plumbing Talks | Contractor Magazine
Forums | Electrical Construction & Maintenance (EC&M) Magazine
Comfortech365 Virtual Event