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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    3,824

    Trane/American Standard Air Handler Question

    Who actually wraps the gas temperature sensor with a wet rag while brazing as per instructions OR, do you simply cut the panduit and remove the sensor? (Or just move it if you can)
    Always here

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Opelousas La.
    Posts
    90
    I just remove it. Very easy.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    3,824
    Thanks I know they have been out for sometime, but I have one in my shop I must install in the down flow position tomorrow. I bought one and had it shipped to my shop rather than the job site so I could check it out. Seems to me, I should install the 3" stubs tonight to save time.

    Any other tips from those who have installed many of these would certainly be appreciated.

    Thanks.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    3,824
    Removed.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    North Richland Hills, Texas
    Posts
    14,914
    I just remove the sensor.

    As for tips, none for downflow, as I've never installed one in that configuration.
    Be sure you get the single point power entry kit if your heat package has 2 breakers, but there is only a single set of conductors for the voltage supply.
    The optional internal float switch is worth the price for its ease of installation. Only for upflow and downflow.
    On downflow and horizontal installs, be sure you screw in the male adaptors for the drain before you install the panel that covers that area, or you will have to remove it again, and it is a bit of a pain.

    The most frustrating thing I've run into is the electrical entry.
    There is almost no room to work when the heat package is installed.
    There are only knockouts for 3/4 or 1 1/2" fittings, and you have to use the nuts supplied with the air handler, because the ones that come on the fittings you buy won't fit in the recess inside the air handler.
    Since all of my installations are replacements of existing equipment, and most of the time I run into one that has the wires conduit, it is 1" conduit, only having 3/4 and 1 1/2 knockouts was an inconvenience.

    I did find a solution though!
    A 1 1/4" to 1" washer fits snugly in the recess for the 1 1/2" knockouts.
    If more government is the answer, then it's a really stupid question.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Opelousas La.
    Posts
    90
    When putting the male adapter for the drain make sure that the fitting is not too big to fit through the hole in the panel. The fitting we buy are too big so I just drill the hole a little bigger. That is if it is in the horizontal position.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    3,824
    Perfect, thanks!

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