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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Louisville,ky
    Posts
    32

    I don't want to change the reversing valve, I rather change the whole unit first

    I have a 5 ton 10 seer goodman heat pump, still running fine. My problem is, now I don't want to use it as a heat pump anymore, so I took the coil wires from reversing valve, and put them right on the compressor contactor coil, by-pass the defrost board. Now the reversing was staying in heat mode last nite, so today I turn it on again, thinking about replacing it, I started up, and the reversing switched, and it is working find all day, cycles and maintain temp. thru out the day. My question is, should I keep power on reversing valve all the time, so I can't take changes hanging up. Buy me time so can price condensing units. This crazy, but it would be nice while it is in cooling mode, I pinch off a pilot tube so it can't go back to heat mode. THX

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Anderson, South Carolina, United States
    Posts
    5,674
    Quote Originally Posted by etap View Post
    I have a 5 ton 10 seer goodman heat pump, still running fine. My problem is, now I don't want to use it as a heat pump anymore, so I took the coil wires from reversing valve, and put them right on the compressor contactor coil, by-pass the defrost board. Now the reversing was staying in heat mode last nite, so today I turn it on again, thinking about replacing it, I started up, and the reversing switched, and it is working find all day, cycles and maintain temp. thru out the day. My question is, should I keep power on reversing valve all the time, so I can't take changes hanging up. Buy me time so can price condensing units. This crazy, but it would be nice while it is in cooling mode, I pinch off a pilot tube so it can't go back to heat mode. THX
    Don't pinch off anything, reversing valve could be powered all the. Why don't you want to use it as a heat pump anymore if its still working?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    1,863
    Have at it dude.
    "Hey Lama, hey, how about a little something, you know, for the effort." And he says, "there won't be any money, but when you die, on your deathbed, you will receive total consciousness." So I got that goin' for me, which is nice. - Carl Spackler

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Round Rock
    Posts
    3,411
    I'm really not sure why you wouldn't want to use the heat pump. Makes no sense other than you're trying to save wear and tear on compressor. If it's a 10 seer it means it's pretty old. You aren't doing yourself any favors. What pilot tube did you pinch so it wouldn't go into heat? On the gas furnace? It seems it would be easier just not to turn it to heat on thermostat rather than going through all this trouble.
    I like DIY'ers. They pay better to fix.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Louisville,ky
    Posts
    32
    Ok It goes like this. When house starts to warm up, I am not sure when I turn cooling on, if it is going to blow cool air or warm air, because the reversing valve sticks in heat mode. I can't keep on taking a chance on it. I didn't pinch the pilot tubes, but I was wondering a way to make it stay in cooling position, than I wouldn't have to change it out. THX

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Keokuk, IA
    Posts
    5,520
    So the reversing valve is sticking... and your hoping to lock it into cooling mode to get by until you can replace the system.

    I will admit, that this is why, although getting competitive bids is a great idea in general, once your in a pinch like this, sometimes you either have to get a referral to a good contractor and go with them, or just fix the unit, roll the dice and wait to replace it next year. If you're wanting a more basic system (13-15 SEER, single stage) most times this equipment is in stock at the supply houses. The premium stuff takes a few weeks to get in.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Mount Holly, NC
    Posts
    2,742
    pinching a tube will make the valve non functional. DO NOT pinch the tube. it's pressure that pushes the valve into the mode, so pinching the tube will just prevent it from moving under control... it'll just flop around wherever it feels like. both tubes are needed for both heat and cool mode. plus, even if you did successfully get the valve to stay cooling from a pinch, it'd cause the pinched tube to leak most likely.
    valves stick from lack of use, or debris in the system. there is no way short of removing the valve altogether to "lock" it into cool mode... every time the system shuts down, power is lost, and the valve switches to heat mode. if you had it powered all the time, each time the system shut down, the pressures would equalize, and the valve would wander where it felt like anyway...

    if it's sticking, it'll stick anyway. powered or not.
    best is to keep it stock, so it can at least swap and keep itself unstuck as designed.
    The TRUE highest cost system is the system not installed properly...
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    Dwane Johnson
    The A/C repairman

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Keokuk, IA
    Posts
    5,520
    Sounds like 4 options.

    Replace the valve

    Get a tech that will remove the valve and braze in a section of copper for cooling mode only

    Replace it with an R22 dry unit and wait 5-7 years to replace the whole system.

    Replace the whole system now and buy a protable or window unit ot get by for a week or two..

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Beatrice, NE
    Posts
    1,750
    There is a technique that can be used to make sticking valves work for a short time just to get by for a while. Find a tech that knows the trick. I have had them work for a couple of years already, others only a week, depends on the valve.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Louisville,ky
    Posts
    32
    I just wanted to let you all know that I removed the coil and added a speacial magnet to keep the valve open for cooling. I just wanted try this.thx

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    1,626
    Quote Originally Posted by etap View Post
    I just wanted to let you all know that I removed the coil and added a speacial magnet to keep the valve open for cooling. I just wanted try this.thx
    I want to know more about this special magnet you used?

    Is it a government secret?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    4,515
    i ussally find that there is a underlying problem that causes the rv valve to not work properly
    We really need change now

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Louisville,ky
    Posts
    32
    I thought that I would try this. This is solenoid valve operating magnet. You remove electric coil and slide the magnet on the valve stem. I heard the valve click, when I put it on. Part number is SVOM-18 4660507 REFCO company name CH-6285 hitzkirch www.refco.ch
    Let me know if you need pictures. So for it is working, but I want to leave it of for few days than test it.

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