My eyes are blind, I guess. Rheem 5 tn package unit problem
Guys need a little help . I am missing something very basic and just dont see it and i am getting pissed. The customer defrost board went out and I replaced it . But unit will not come on. Do have 24 from the coil . Con tact will not pull in . On the new board I have three flashing led lights . No led codes any where. What is it that i don t see
No idea but if I was the one out there:
I would start by disconnecting all non-essential wiring--jump of your terminals for the blower and compressor.
Whatever blew the old board may be funking up the new one.
24v at contactor coil, yet it's not pulling contacts together? Is that what you got?
If so, failed contactor.
"If perfection is your goal, you may end up with good enough, what might you end up with when good enough is your goal?"
Wayne Pendergast, efficientcomfort.net
2X on open contactor coil.
Sounds too cut and dry, you would think if the OP was a contractor he would have tried a contactor. It also makes me question if the original defrost board was really bad.
Maybe the common/neutral/white wire is the one run through any safety switches? Had a RTU like that once and didn't pick up on it right away 'cause I didn't test voltage across the coil, just put one lead to ground.
An answer without a question is meaningless.
Information without understanding is useless.
You can lead a horse to water............
That's what I was thinking. My favorite is when someone breaks the outdoor units common with the float switch, gets techs everytime.
Originally Posted by tipsrfine
Why? If you don't have 24 at the CC, would you not just play hopscotch until you found an open switch, broken termination etc.
Originally Posted by mason
BTW - I was told to break common when installing a float, and I think the hockey pucks intructions even reflect this. Are there pitfalls I'm not aware of doing it this way?
Because so many guys put a lead on the cabinet and then R,O/B,Y individually. So they go, ok all is good there, and then check the y out and so forth with one lead. Everything looks good.
It's just a poor but common practice.
When possible I try to break what makes the most sense for the scenario. A/C but non condensing furnace I break yellow, fan and furnace will still operate even with faulty switch. If it's a condensing furnace I break red, shut down everything so no water can be made but still make it obvious for other techs that they need to find out where the 24volts got lost. A/H break yellow again so fan and heat strips still come on. One less call at 9pm for no heat just to find something that could've waited for the spring start up : ).
Same idea with a/c secondary drain, take the secondary drain to the pan drain, not the pan itself but tee into the actual pipe. This way if the primary gets backed up it will over flow into secondary but drain out the emergency pipe, customer calls and says the other pipe has water dripping instead of my unit isn't working come out now at 7pm just because pan filled up. Got that one from mark beiser.