Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 14 to 26 of 60
  1. #14
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Western, KY
    Posts
    3,145
    Quote Originally Posted by jpsmith1cm View Post
    To shorten the line set if I'm understanding properly.
    Sounds inefficient but I guess everybody has their way.

    Usually the only joints I have are at the units and I don't get the torches out at all. Did have a church recently where the lines ran over 50' so we had two braze connections on the rough in, I leave enough sticking out that I can cut, flare and connect with no more brazing. Also, if the joint is accessible you can always use a flare coupling for longer lines when splicing.

    I've seen some rough factory flares, so I typically cut them off and do my own.

  2. #15
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    South of Heaven
    Posts
    1,140
    I've had problems with the YJ tool on 1/4 inch od tubing. It is difficult to get to clamp tight enough and the flaring action pushes the pipe from the dies. Other than that it seems to do fine.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    3,824
    Tighten the side closest to the copper first.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    North Richland Hills, Texas
    Posts
    14,914
    Quote Originally Posted by danielworkerbee View Post
    Our guys use the factory flare on the line set and just cut & braze a foot up from the flare.
    luck dan
    On all of the factory made line sets I've seen, the factory flares are garbage compared to the nice crisp burnished flares my YJ flaring tool makes.
    Usually they are bad enough that they would fail if I checked them with my Daikin flare gauge.
    If more government is the answer, then it's a really stupid question.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Western, KY
    Posts
    3,145
    Quote Originally Posted by mark beiser View Post
    On all of the factory made line sets I've seen, the factory flares are garbage compared to the nice crisp burnished flares my YJ flaring tool makes.
    Usually they are bad enough that they would fail if I checked them with my Daikin flare gauge.
    You have any links to this flare gauge and it's implementation?

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    56
    Ive had the YellowJacket deluxe for a couple years and I have had great results with it. I don't flare a whole lot but I cant lose a part if its all one piece! And you don't have to guess the protrusion.

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Knoxville TN
    Posts
    53
    I was taught years ago by a old tech to use a nickle (thickness) to measure the pipe in the clamp. I hope im explaining it right, but i always do it and never had any problems. I can take pics if needed. I guess that would be consider a flare gauge. I have told this to other techs in the field and they never heard anyone do that but they all agreed its a good idea.

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    winnipeg
    Posts
    1,330
    I make flares everyday..... how can this old man never have trouble..... use imperial eastman
    it was working.... played with it.... now its broke.... whats the going hourly rate for HVAC repair

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Athens, Ohio
    Posts
    1,772
    Thanks for all the replies. We already make plenty of flares with no problems with the older Ridgid tool. Deburring, proper flaring technique and use of a torque wrench are already standard procedure for us. We are Mitsubishi Diamond contractors so we are following their training (we used this procedure even before the training.)
    I just don't know why the old tool produces a a good flare but neither of the new ones does.

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Anderson, South Carolina, United States
    Posts
    6,801
    Quote Originally Posted by phase24 View Post
    I was taught years ago by a old tech to use a nickle (thickness) to measure the pipe in the clamp. I hope im explaining it right, but i always do it and never had any problems. I can take pics if needed. I guess that would be consider a flare gauge. I have told this to other techs in the field and they never heard anyone do that but they all agreed its a good idea.
    That's what I was taught too. One of the guys at our shop does the cut factory flare and solder it on trick because he says he doesn't trust flares. It's like an act of congress to convince him that you can make a good flare with a flaring tool.

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    North Richland Hills, Texas
    Posts
    14,914
    Quote Originally Posted by jtrammel View Post
    One of the guys at our shop does the cut factory flare and solder it on trick because he says he doesn't trust flares.
    Hopefully he is kept far far away from mini split and VRV equipment installs...
    If more government is the answer, then it's a really stupid question.

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Anderson, South Carolina, United States
    Posts
    6,801
    Quote Originally Posted by mark beiser View Post
    Hopefully he is kept far far away from mini split and VRV equipment installs...
    As much as possible, he's used more for manhandling and sledgehammer work rather than precise or technical stuff.

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    wedged in freezer shelf
    Posts
    6,665
    Quote Originally Posted by carmon View Post
    I make flares everyday..... how can this old man never have trouble..... use imperial eastman
    “If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball”

Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Comfortech Show Promo Image

Related Forums

Plumbing Talks | Contractor Magazine
Forums | Electrical Construction & Maintenance (EC&M) Magazine
Comfortech365 Virtual Event