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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Salt Lake City/Tooele
    Posts
    2,510

    To the Nay Sayers, wanting proof of my vac pump set-up

    So there was a thread a little bit ago, asking about vacuum hoses. I stated that I have all my hoses made for a fraction of the cost. Got a few emails from people stating I was full of $%^.

    So here is my set-up...take what you want or not.

    Hoses:
    Hoses are 919-6 ParFlex series hoses made by Parker Industries. They are rated at 2500 psi burst, 28inHG vacuum. These hoses are much more smaller in over-all diameter than what we are all use to. These particular hoses ARE 3/8" ID even though they look like a 1/4" hose we are use to. These hoses are very flexible, steep bending radius, can step on them, pull them through hot spots, take an accidental torching, and easier to manage and store.
    Y/J and others Rubber Hoses are thick, bulky, and expensive. Their Vacuum rated hose is triple threaded and just a cumbersome hose to play with. Storage is a b!@#%.

    The 919B is $4.89 a foot for 3/8 ID
    1/2" is $6.10 a foot

    All from my local Intermountain House of Hose...a Parker Distributor.

    Hose Fittings:
    These are process 3/8" flare fittings. My Parker distributors has a specialized machine that triple crimps these to the hose with a hydraulic 15000 psi press. Can get these in 45, 90, and straight. These fittings will not mate with the standard 3/8" flare end. So I use the process 3/8 flare fitting to 3/8 mpt fitting and attach straight to the housing of the Y/J quick valve. I usually remove the ball guts of this Y/J fitting and 45% braze the handle fitting hole to make them permanent, and no concerns it is leaking at handle.

    Straight Fittings are $4.00 each for
    45 fittings are $9.00 each
    90 fittings are $11.00 each

    Vacuum Pump inlet fitting:
    I removed the 1/2 MPT to 3/8 flare factory fitting.
    NOTE: There is a mesh screen in the YJ brand of pumps to prevent debris entering the rotaries. Make good practice to remove and clean screen annually. It is fine mesh and clogs fairly often.

    Inside there is also a brass retainer that requires a hex to remove for the ball valve assembly for the blank-off valve for the pump. There is a rebuild kit# 93401 for this. If your Y/J pump is leaking...90% of the time it is here. I rebuild mine about every other year and have an extra kit just in case. I use NyLog on the internal fittings with great success.

    As for this fitting, I replaced it with with a 1/2 MPT to 1/2 Flare x 1/2 Flare "T". This is where is can get confusing. I use flare adapters to allow me to remove the 1/2" to 3/8" hose connectors and change over to 1/2" to 1/2" for my 1/2" hoses. On large systems I can run my 1/2" hoses to a 1/2" x 3/8" x 3/8" set-up to allow a total of FOUR 3/8" hoses attached to multiple ports of the system tied to the vac pump.

    "T" was $12.30
    1/2" to 3/8" flare reducing union set $3.69 each
    1/2" to 1/2" flare union set $4.23 each

    Oil Quick Fill Port:
    I removed the handle on my Y/J 6cfm pump. This gives you direct access to the exhaust portion of the pump. This section of the pump is NOT under vacuum or critical. I attached a normal 3/8 flare x 3/8 MPT fitting to this. I have a small hand pump that allows me to attach directly to this port and be able to quick fill my pumps oil. Never had success trying to poor oil into the existing exhaust port.


    Accessory Storage Box:

    I custom made and folded a steel bracket which utilizes the motor mounting bolts. Attached to this is my accessory box that I keep my core removal tools, caps, replacement schraeders, NYLOG for the flare fittings, etc. It is solid and easy to make and utilizes the wasted space just above the motor. Ill upgrade to a metal box, but until then the plastic box is perfect size and cheap from HomeDepot.


    So this set-up with a pair of 6 foot 3/8 hoses and fittings came to $86.60 after taxes....Look at the price for a SINGLE 3/8 or 1/2 Y/J or similar vacuum hose $50 to $80 bucks


    So those of you that wish to email me and give me grief and call my bluff...here is the proof. The bracket and storage kit is my idea..so if TruTech or someone wants to clean it up and mass produce that, gotta kick me some royalties...

    SLCTECH
    Attached Images Attached Images      

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    In a boiler room
    Posts
    7,142
    Thanks for taking the time to explain that! I will definitely look into it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Salt Lake City/Tooele
    Posts
    2,510
    There is one more item that I have done on my other pump, which I will do on this.
    I remove the front exhaust and oil sump portion of the pump. I remove the stupid handle and tap the threads (easy with aluminum) and add a long shank eye bolt. This allows me to more easily hook and hoist onto roofs. Or I have a shoulder strap that I can clip to the eyebolt. In commercial and rooftop I need my hands free to carry other things to lessen the trips across a long white boring membrane roof.

    I also tap out and oversize the oil drain port. Need to be a bit careful on this. Need good machinery skills not to screw it up, thinner area and original hole already sets at base of sump. But by oversizing it and adding a ball valve, it makes for quicker draining and with my hand filling pump kit, I also have a drain tube I attach to the drain valve easily drain oil right back into the previous empty oil container. I hate mess and I hate oil everywhere.

    Hand filling kit is from Harbor Freight. Works great, easy to clean and comes with fittings and extra hose to make the oil drain kit, too.
    http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-u...ump-66418.html

    I have found I more apt to maintaining my oil changes when it can be done quickly, cleanly, and efficiently.

    Eye Bolt pic
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    In a boiler room
    Posts
    7,142
    Do you have your manifold hoses made the same way?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Salt Lake City/Tooele
    Posts
    2,510
    Yes. Will get you pics of those.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    wedged in freezer shelf
    Posts
    6,800
    Who would have though someone just needed to call you a liar and we all benefit from a great post. Very nice slctech.
    “If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball”

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    25,723
    Quote Originally Posted by slctech View Post
    There is one more item that I have done on my other pump, which I will do on this.
    I remove the front exhaust and oil sump portion of the pump. I remove the stupid handle and tap the threads (easy with aluminum) and add a long shank eye bolt. This allows me to more easily hook and hoist onto roofs. Or I have a shoulder strap that I can clip to the eyebolt. In commercial and rooftop I need my hands free to carry other things to lessen the trips across a long white boring membrane roof.

    I also tap out and oversize the oil drain port. Need to be a bit careful on this. Need good machinery skills not to screw it up, thinner area and original hole already sets at base of sump. But by oversizing it and adding a ball valve, it makes for quicker draining and with my hand filling pump kit, I also have a drain tube I attach to the drain valve easily drain oil right back into the previous empty oil container. I hate mess and I hate oil everywhere.

    Hand filling kit is from Harbor Freight. Works great, easy to clean and comes with fittings and extra hose to make the oil drain kit, too.
    http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-u...ump-66418.html

    I have found I more apt to maintaining my oil changes when it can be done quickly, cleanly, and efficiently.

    Eye Bolt pic
    THIS idea, I LIKE!

    Makes me wish I'd have opted for the YJ pump when I bought a new one last summer instead of the JB with the exhaust through the handle...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    wedged in freezer shelf
    Posts
    6,800
    Quote Originally Posted by jpsmith1cm View Post
    THIS idea, I LIKE!

    Makes me wish I'd have opted for the YJ pump when I bought a new one last summer instead of the JB with the exhaust through the handle...
    J/B has a handle with a lifting eye built in
    “If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball”

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    25,723
    Quote Originally Posted by itsiceman View Post
    J/B has a handle with a lifting eye built in
    That's right, it does. Mine normally gets chucked in a grocery cart.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    British Columbia, Canada
    Posts
    527
    Great post slctech!
    You're a true innovator.
    I hate filling the vacuum pump through the exhaust port.
    Gonna build mine like yours...thanks!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Salt Lake City/Tooele
    Posts
    2,510
    Here are a few pics of my original bullet proof Y/J & Digi-Cool DSRA with the 1/4 hoses. Got it attached to the Sherman Stalker. I like the Sherman, but as you can see I have a huge plethora of hoses, gauges, and manifolds. I really do not have a favorite after all these years.

    But here are the 1/4" hoses and fittings. These are 36" hoses, like to keep them short for regular service work. Still have a 3/8" Y/J charging hose, but this is for dumping large amounts of refer into a system, right into a big old 1/2" inlet of a receiver.

    I JB welded magnets to the back of my Shermans, just clunk it on the side of an RTU. Or use them for panel screws, tools, or whatever so I don't loose them as I usually do.

    Any questions feel free to ask.
    Attached Images Attached Images     

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    565
    Most ppl hang their diplomas or plaques on the wall, but you hang circuit boards and controllers. Thats awsome, lol.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Atlanta GA area
    Posts
    21,286
    Quote Originally Posted by jvillehvac View Post
    Most ppl hang their diplomas or plaques on the wall, but you hang circuit boards and controllers. Thats awsome, lol.
    I recycle them... <grin> Local scrap yard pays $3.50/# for them...

    Seriously... do not know if they are good boards or bad boards.
    GA-HVAC-Tech

    Quality work at a fair price with excellent customer service!

    Romans Ch's 5-6-7-8

    2 Chronicles 7:14

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