1 what is the difference between carbon and the style disc shown here.
2 NJBIKER, why was ur heart beating during that last stud? What could happen? Could some something fall and get lost?
3 would a bad disc contaminate the refrigerant charge or lose the entire charge?
4 I know that one can run hot water through a bundle to raise the pressure , and one can drain the bundle to a 1/4 or 1/2 to speed things up, what are some other ways for leak check?
Pulling the oil to change , I would just use a pump, but for leak checking?
I dont know the difference between the discs. I have yet to see a chiller with the carbon disc due to what chillers I see for our accounts we handle.
I will PM you deal tales on the control shaft.
Yes you could lose the entire charge and get a ton of air into the machine. Once you get air into the machine you have to worry about rusting problems. Which all ways ends up into your oil filter once you start running the machine again. You have a purge unit which will help get air out of the machine and other contaminates, but your better off pulling the charge and filter it out of the machine and filter it back in as well. When your recovering the Vapor out of the machine you use a high pressure bottle like you normaly would on any other ac unit, but you open the vapor side of the bottle to keep the pressure under 20psig when recovering. This also gets contaminates out of the refrigerant too. If your blowing off the bottle alot you know you have leaks some ware on the chiller. If your machine is tight you may only blow off the pressure maybe a hand full of times. This unit had a relief valve above the disc so it does not blow the entire charge. The relief valve will reseal its self once your under that 15pisg mark.
With Hot water is very important to see how hot you are able to go York says no hotter then 100degrees or you could end up blowing your disc. Also we always equalize pressure on the disc make sure both sides are equal pressure so that way you cant blow the disc by mistake. I also add some refrigerant to the machine and then add nitrogen to 8-10psig. I have had the best luck this way.
If you are changing the oil you can run warm water though the bundle to build pressure up and push it out. We have also gotten a 100lb or a 200lb drum and suck the drum into a vacuum then open the oil drain valve and suck the oil out.
Push pull method w the low side of the recovery tank cracked to release the non condensesables
Not for when you are vapor recovering. You just run your hose into the liquid side of the bottle. Then vent non condensables out vapor side. We will also sent up a pressure relief valve on the cylinder and set it for 20psig so it will purge it out on its own.
We will do push pull method only for liquid recovery for R11 and R123 chillers. You can pull a **** ton of refrigerant out in very little time.
I will also do Push pull on larger AC units and High pressure chillers its also good to get or make a sub cooler to keep you recovery bottle pressure/ temp down on the high pressure machines.