I have a coworker in a mission to replace about 50 stainless nuts n bolts on like a couple of 10" PVC flange. The old steel rusted bolts r about 5 years old m rusted out good he said he can't flip out the old nuts, Amy recommmendatiom
It is going to sound crazy but after soaking with WD-40/PB Blaster/Liquid Wrench try to tighten the heads just a little bit to break them loose. You can also spend about 2-3 minutes tapping each bolt with a hammer before turning them. I know tightening is the exact opposite of your objective but after soaking, then tapping, it frequently works.
I've never seen stainless nuts and bolts rusted so bad that they couldn't be taken apart. If they're plain old grade 2 steel nuts and bolts like are used everywhere, I'd skip the oil and go right to a grinder with a cutoff wheel. That'll make short work of those things without melting the PVC flange.
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They make a tool called a nut cracker. If you have the room you can use this tool to split the nuts. That will most certainly assist in loosening them.
Probably NAPA has the tool.
Originally Posted by anthonyac1
I have a coworker in a mission to replace about 50 stainless nuts n bolts on like a couple of 10" PVC flange. The old steel rusted bolts r about 5 years old m rusted out good he said he can't flip out the old nuts, Amy recommmendatiom
I've never seen stainless nuts and bolts rusted so bad that they couldn't be taken apart. If they're plain old grade 2 steel nuts and bolts like are used everywhere, I'd skip the oil and go right to a grinder with a cutoff wheel. That'll make short work of those things without melting the PVC flange.
Sounds like he has steel now and replacing with stainless. I'm with the guys on a good soaking with Kroil. Let it soak a while and do its thing. I like a 1/2" impact to prevent snapping rusted bolts. Good luck. Also seen PVC flange so I would not put a smoke wrench on it.
I've never seen stainless nuts and bolts rusted so bad that they couldn't be taken apart. If they're plain old grade 2 steel nuts and bolts like are used everywhere, I'd skip the oil and go right to a grinder with a cutoff wheel. That'll make short work of those things without melting the PVC flange.
if you have room to do this this is the best!!! dont even think about anything else...I had a tech work on a 8 in flange..I was not there,,,i think he tapped to hard and was messing with the bolts,,,,the pipe was an old condensor loop...cracked the flange...hair line crack....what a mess....
if you have room to do this this is the best!!! dont even think about anything else...I had a tech work on a 8 in flange..I was not there,,,i think he tapped to hard and was messing with the bolts,,,,the pipe was an old condensor loop...cracked the flange...hair line crack....what a mess....
Hopefully its valves out, the flange, before he starts doing ANYTHING to it. Nothing like a 5" column of fluid getting loose to get the adrenalin going.
hey guys. sorry for the confuseing post i was beat after work i knocked out while writing it but to clear it all up. the original contractor used steel bolts so they are rusted out beyond anything so one of our techs has to remove the bolts and replace them with stainless steel bolts. you cannot tremove the nut so he just grinds off the nut, so now you have the hex head with the shaft of the bolt still in the flange it wont budge some slide out after tapping them and soaking them but others wont budge. today i spoke with him he said with the grinder he cut a fine slit in the edge of the flange and lightly pry it open while tapping them out. i guess thats working for him. i was curious to see what others do in this case.
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Originally Posted by anthonyac1
