Can light amp draw
What does the typical residential can light draw as far as amps?
We just switched over to Charter which means my kitchen TV now requires a cable box as well. I was thinking if the can lights are all on the same circuit, or better yet the four kitchen can lights are on their own, i could throw a junction box in the attic and easily zook in an outlet behind the TV in a shelving nook.
I guess an equally valid question would be how do you figure the total amp load for a circuit, any rule of thumbs etc. If I establish what circuits feed the can lights and amp that line at the panel, how far away from 15 amps should I be to comfortably add a small TV and cable box?
Can lights are resistive, not flourescent, 75 watts. TV draws .9 A and cable box has an adaptor input of 1.0 A and output of 2.67 (12V).
I'm in no hurry to crawl into my own attic, even though the attic fan belt needs to be adjusted/replaced again but the wife...hell, need I say more?
If you have a 15 amp circuit you want to only be at 80% of it
You need to add the total rated amps not what you are drawing.
75 watt lamps draw .625 amps a light. (75 watts/125volts=amps)
S**t! Elephants in the rut eat pie.
Originally Posted by refrepairman
Sometimes there is such a thing as a stupid question...and leave it to me to disregard all training and go ahead and ask it.
Good point as well Joe, thanks.
Wouldn't those lights be on a switch?
The lights would, yes. The outlet would not...unless I did something really stupid. But I've since decided to grab an existing outlet and reroute it depending on how they bad they banged in the romex staples. Last time I was up there was when I put the speakers in the ceiling 'bout seven years ago and I didn't pay any attention to the high voltage.
Originally Posted by cjpwalker
This is a good opportunity, as long as you are running a circuit, to ensure that your kitchen has the two required 20A small appliance circuits. ALL of the outlets serving the counters should be on one of those circuits, and the whole shebang should be powered by GFCI breakers in the panel, or make a GFCI outlet the first in each string, and daisy chain off the load side of each.
[Avatar photo from a Florida training accident. Everyone walked away.]
2 Tim 3:16-17
RSES CMS, HVAC Electrical Specialist
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Well...I knew the attic fan was sounding sick, but had no idea it had died. Believe it or not, the damn thing was moving air and struggling to survive as I found it: Three inches of slack in the belt as the top motor bearing was dislodged from it's sleeve. I jiggered it back in but knew it was gone when I went to spin it. Might be able to salvage it but had bigger fish to fry. We hardly ever use the thing, but I feel bad I let it get to this point.
I ended up being able to use a 20 amp kitchen circuit (thanks for the heads up, TB, we are in compliance once I add a few GFCIs) with virtually no change in existing power distribution. The rest was just a matter of itchy, hot attic work. But I have a new found respect for attics and the sparkies...the access possibilities are considerable. Also afforded a great opportunity to pick up a Klien NCVD as I was pretty sure I had a handle on what was running where...but just a little bit apprehensive before sinking into that old aluminum wire with the side cutters...
i would replace that attic fan with a direct drive unit and be done with it i hate belt drive fans