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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by motoguy128 View Post
    Here's a good example of gigo (garbage on garbage out) summer design temp I'd NOT 100f. Only parts of Texas and az hold that distinction. Out only 87 for Valpo with a fairly humid 74f wet bulb. I Bet 100 had only happened 4 or 5 days since 1940 and your record is like 105. In comparison, out hot 100 or higher here i think 3 times last summer and in places like Texas, it a normal occurance mid summer

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
    Actually, HVAC-calc defaults to a higher outside than 100, can't remember exactly, but I did back it down. Fort Wayne and Valpo are very similar in weather. What would you recommend for an Outside Temp?

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1,091
    motoguy128 is right,
    I don't know about the default but, HVAC-Calc Res has South Bend and Goshen at 89db summer and 1db winter, Valp is 90dp and 3db. WrightJ has South Bent at 91summer and 5 winter.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Keokuk, IA
    Posts
    5,520
    Oh... and you winter temp for Valpo is 3F. Right on the lake it's probably higher, 4-5F.

    Fort Wayne is quite a bit inland, according to the official statistical data, it's lower as you go north and closer to te lake. Large bodies of water ALWAYS have a tempering effect. Not only the water itself, but the lake effect clouds and precipitation.

    Even where I am, the Mississippi river is about 1/2-3/4 mile wide and has a slight tempering effect at times. Depending on wind direction I can also get slightly higher humidity. Compounding that I'm up high on a bluff and in calm winds, it can be 3-5F difference from along the river where my work is to my house 300' higher only 2 miles away. Cold air falls & warm air rises.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by teddy bear View Post
    Looking over the load calcs, the latent load is lower than I would have expected. ASHRAE suggest 500 btus of latent load per occupant. A home your size, should have a fresh air change in 4-5 hours. This is an additional 3,000 btus of latent load. Also consider that the latent loads are independent of the sensible cooling loads. That is the reason that the home is damp when there is low/no cooling loads. Without a significant cooling load, even a two speed a/c is unable to remove 2,000-4,000 btus of latent cooling load. With a naturally cool basement space, expect the home to be clammy at best. After a couple months of +65%RH, basements smell like basements and dust mites grow in bedding and favorite furniture.
    To maintain <50%RH throughout the home and get adequate fresh air change, adding a whole house to a good basic a/c with keep the home at <50%RH and fresh air throughout. Now for the commercial, check out the Ultra-Aire whole house dehu, a sponsor of the site. There are other brands also. A 3 pint per hour dehu is minimum for your application.
    Keep us posted.
    Regards TB
    Thanks TB

    I will give the whole house dehumidifier some very serious consideration. That will put me well over budget, but after reading some of your other posts on the subject, it might be best if I were to drop back to a single stage AC and put some money toward a WH dehumidifier. I read somewhere that Honeywell makes the quietest unit available. That will be very important because the utility room where it will be housed is adjacent to the family room where we watch TV. What would you compare the noise level of one of these units too?

    One other question. If my sensible heat gain is 22,863 and latent is: 2,399 is a 2 ton unit sufficient? The AHRI ratings of the proposed condenser/coil combination is 23,600 total and 16,100 sensible.

    Thanks again.

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