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Thread: Service manual

  1. #1
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    Service manual

    Hey guys. Doing some work at a restaurant which has been neglecting their kitchen, refrigeration wise. I have a few units that need some tlc. One unit I have is an old Jimex Coldtech 2 door prep unit model # M2P4818. I'm looking for the weigh-in on it. Sticker is unreadable. I was lucky to just be able to get the model # off of it. I have already called Coldtech but they say that unit is not theirs and the old Coldtech went out of business a while back.

    Thanks. Charles

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by hammerman2029 View Post
    Hey guys. Doing some work at a restaurant which has been neglecting their kitchen, refrigeration wise. I have a few units that need some tlc. One unit I have is an old Jimex Coldtech 2 door prep unit model # M2P4818. I'm looking for the weigh-in on it. Sticker is unreadable. I was lucky to just be able to get the model # off of it. I have already called Coldtech but they say that unit is not theirs and the old Coldtech went out of business a while back.

    Thanks. Charles
    Coldtech is still around. The company that built that box was most likely Gemtech they wet out of business a few years ago.

    Personally I never go by data tags as most are incorrect, SH and SC. On the money every time

    Hopefully you luck out and it's a Tecumseh pump in there so you know what flavor refrigerant it takes, a lot of Gemtech compressors were unmarked but can crossed over by the stamp in the compressor housing at your local supply house if they are any good...

    Hope this helps
    Isn't sanity just a one-trick pony anyway? I mean, all you get is that one trick, rational thinking, but when you're good and crazy, well, the sky's the limit!

  3. #3
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    Thank you Skpkey for the response. It is a Tecumseh thank god, an AEA4440YXA pump. Apparently the owner had his rear end handed to him by the health department recently. I have 3 units here, one completely down and two others not cooling to code along with an ice machine full of slime, and condensers full of trash. I’m putting a condensing unit in the one that’s down along with repairing two leaks on the front side next to the evaporator and cleaning up two evaporator fan motors that are jammed up with old food. Hopefully this afternoon I’ll be able to get into the Coldtech which is a story in its own. I found out that two years ago a friend of a friend of the owner replaced the compressor, did a short vacuum without a micron gauge, then charged it up with 2 cans of 134a he bought from the auto parts store down the street then said “Well that ought to be enough”. Shaking my head at that one. Now that unit wont cool down past 46 degrees. I guess it comes with the job though. Spend a few days here, get them back up to code then work on getting a PM schedule with them. (They own 8 different restaurants) Could become profitable.

  4. #4
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    Mar 2013
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    More jimex crap. Had to work on a cold tech CDF-3F yesterday where one of those wannabe dixell controllers went bad and could never kick the fans back on after defrost, and naturally I couldn't find jack for literature on the system to rewire it without all its 12vac relays. Lucky they had that SF-104 on eBay for 40bucks from an old liquidation. But yeah cold tech sucks. Thus why it's not around anymore I dare say...

  5. #5
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    That's a 1/3 hp 134a compressor but you probably already know that.

  6. #6
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    The old ones sometimes need some magic. Get it cleaned up and watch pressures, amps, temps. Amps are a good indication if everything is clean charge to 1 amp lower than RLA and see how things go. Charge very slowly and keep an eye on all test equipment. Running pressures (depends on refrigerant) should come into line when you get close to RLA. Try approx. 7 oz to start if it's an evacuated cap tube system, a bit more if there's a receiver. After you know how much refrigerant is in there and it is running good you will have a little positive advertising with the customer. If everything does match up means its a good time to buy a lottery ticket.

  7. #7
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    Ahh. If there is a data plate with a charge weight on it I recommend using it. It's there for a reason. If its a cap tube SH is not fixed. If it has a receiver SC will not get you there. Use the data given unless something has been added, bigger drier or accumulator etc. IMHO.

  8. #8
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    Always go with name plate first of course. Read earlier entries first too.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by hammerman2029 View Post
    (They own 8 different restaurants) Could become profitable.
    Make sure you collect COD, there is always a reason why they are calling a new company. The old reefer company screwed up, or they did not pay the old reefer company and they are telling you how bad they screwed up?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by EugeneTheJeep View Post
    Make sure you collect COD, there is always a reason why they are calling a new company. The old reefer company screwed up, or they did not pay the old reefer company and they are telling you how bad they screwed up?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by EugeneTheJeep View Post
    Make sure you collect COD, there is always a reason why they are calling a new company. The old reefer company screwed up, or they did not pay the old reefer company and they are telling you how bad they screwed up?
    Definitely got that covered. After I saw the condition of these units, the word "Cheap" kept going through my mind, along with other words I cant use on this "G" rated site. They understand that until we get a stable relationship built, all parts are paid before the work starts. The cost they are paying for the parts will be enough to cover my cost on the parts plus extra for supplies and some of my time. If something were to go sour, the only thing I might be out of is just a little bit of time. One of the owners was like, "Yes, absolutely, no problem" when we made our arrangement. The other was a little skeptical but I asked him, "Was your other guy good"? He said "Yes" when I asked him where he was he just shrugged his shoulders. Their first box I put the condensing unit in yesterday, I turned it over to them only after I completely scraped and cleaned it out. It was clean, quiet and at 35 degrees when I handed them the keys and a printout from my Testo. Going to try to get into that Coldtech today.

  12. #12
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    May 2009
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    The Pas, Manitoba Canada
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    Had an apartment landlord ask me once "Do you think you are too expensive" when he first called and asked about a fridge repair. Told him " it sure sounds like it" when he asked for a cheaper helper. Never went and talked to some appliance buddies that said to stay away.

  13. #13
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    Aug 2006
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    st.petersburg,fl
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    Lightbulb

    [QUOTE=K_Neil;15459571]The old ones sometimes need some magic. Get it cleaned up and watch pressures, amps, temps. Amps are a good indication if everything is clean charge to 1 amp lower than RLA and see how things go. Charge very slowly and keep an eye on all test equipment. Running pressures (depends on refrigerant) should come into line when you get close to RLA. Try approx. 7 oz to start if it's an evacuated cap tube system, a bit more if there's a receiver. After you know how much refrigerant is in there and it is running good you will have a little positive advertising with the customer. If everything does match up means its a good time to buy a

    RLA. Is not used for charging systems , only needed for setting CPR valve if one is in the system.

    Temps and pressures are better indicators
    Isn't sanity just a one-trick pony anyway? I mean, all you get is that one trick, rational thinking, but when you're good and crazy, well, the sky's the limit!

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