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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    115

    WaterFurnace E060 Dip Switch Setting

    I want to turn off my 3rd stage heat (the aux heat stage called from "W"). Not quite permanently, but semi. I want to disable the furnace's ability to call for aux unless I go turn it back on.

    This might be simple, but it's not as simple as you may think. I'm told the circuit breakers for the auz furnace aren't independant of the unit itself. No shutting down a breaker.

    However, Dip Switch Pack SW2, switch #5, looks very interesting. it's labeled
    No HTG3/HTG3.

    Now that sure seems to be telling me 3rd stage heat, but then I'm not too interested in breaking my furnace.

    Can anybody tell me:

    1) How does one disable, preferable via dip switch (or breaker if it's supposed to be possible) aux heat?

    2) And, uh, what's that dip switch I mentioned if not control of aux heat?

    I am, by the way, using a carrier ComfortZone II-b controller. There is no "W" wire coming from the thermostat.... Data comm channel heading down to the controller board...

    There may be a lead coming from the controller M-board heading to the furnace, but I'm kinda reluctant to start screwing with wires at that point.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Eastern Washington
    Posts
    57
    danf58,

    I think there may be an underlying issue here that is not being addressed....

    Why does the "Aux/3rd stage heat" come on in the first place? Is there an efficiency problem or problems telling the system to call for back up heat?

    Back up heat is just that, BACK UP or Em. Heat. Only used when the system can't keep up with the initial main or 1st stage heat. If the system cannot keep up, what is the reason? Answer that, and you will not need to "disable" or otherwise manipulate your system further.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    115
    Huh? Furnacepro? Uh, okay.

    Might I ask for a second opinion on how do do this? Anybody know how to do this?

    BTW, I lied. It's a Geocomfort.

    And I've thought some more. I can't just unhook "w" if I wanted to. I'd like the unit to bypass aux water heating when it calls for 3rd stage. I just want to stop the aux heating elements from coming on..

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    N.E. KS
    Posts
    717
    Quote Originally Posted by danf58 View Post
    Huh? Furnacepro? Uh, okay.

    Might I ask for a second opinion on how do do this? Anybody know how to do this?

    BTW, I lied. It's a Geocomfort.

    And I've thought some more. I can't just unhook "w" if I wanted to. I'd like the unit to bypass aux water heating when it calls for 3rd stage. I just want to stop the aux heating elements from coming on..
    Are you using a setback thermostat? If so, don't set back. These systems are made to run most of the time if sized close to the load as it should be.


    Do you feel that your domestic water heating is robbing you of heat and causing your aux heat to come on? If so, there is a switch on the front of your unit that should be labeled DW, or something of that nature. It's the shutoff for the domestic water heating loop.

    Your aux heat elements are there for a reason. Do you feel that they are running to frequently? If so, there may be a fundamental flaw in system function, design or tstat placement. Have you tried to have installing company check for problems? I don't think you will want to start messing with the dip switches. You could make a wrong move and really get in a pinch. There is alot happening on that microproccesor and you better let someone who knows what's what deal with it, at least if they srew it up, you still can have it warrantied.

    The electric heat strips power the microproccesor in case of a compressor failure, so you would still have heat in an emergency. So don't turn any breakers off to the aux heat.

    How old is the install?

    How cold outside in you area?

    Horizontal loops, wells, or pond?
    Some people know the cost of everything but the value of nothing.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Middle Tennessee
    Posts
    11,347

    *

    Quote Originally Posted by danf58 View Post
    And I've thought some more. I can't just unhook "w" if I wanted to. I'd like the unit to bypass aux water heating when it calls for 3rd stage. I just want to stop the aux heating elements from coming on..

    put a darn toggle switch on it!



    .

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    115
    And where is it? Not at the T-stat, thats for sure... I assume there is a "W" leaving the controller m-board, but woudn't it be nice if there was ALREADY a switch in the circuit? Like, SW2-5.

    Hence the question.

    Anybody know what that thing does?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    N.E. KS
    Posts
    717
    I am not trying to get smart with you, but Kinda really need to find out why you think the aux heat strips should not be on. They are there for a purpose and you will be without heat if you disconnect them if there are other problems. be more specific.
    Some people know the cost of everything but the value of nothing.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    chgo berbs
    Posts
    26
    un plug the strips from the back of the control module in the blower comparment

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Central Kentucky
    Posts
    6,248
    LOL.....nothing like giving the guy advice that could kill him.
    Have you set up a Google alert for Carbon Monoxide yet?
    Click here to find out how.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    N.E. KS
    Posts
    717
    The e series dual capacity stages the water pump off on a 3rd stage heat call untill it's satisfied. If you read the manual that came with it, it tells you all about the dip switches. What you do from here is all yours. And dont remove the heat strip plugs, it could really give you a buzz if you know what I mean.

    It sounds like there are other problems here if aux heat is cycling too much. Could be misconfiguration with your zone controller. Call the installer back for help, that is your best bet.
    Some people know the cost of everything but the value of nothing.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Eastern Washington
    Posts
    57
    It sounds like there are other problems here if aux heat is cycling too much. Could be misconfiguration with your zone controller. Call the installer back for help, that is your best bet.

    Thanks mdharris68... thats exactly what I was trying to say.

    Maybe you should sit down before you hurt yourself there danf58
    and yes...... it's FurnacePro..... That's MR. Furnace Pro to you.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    115
    MDHarris:

    Missed your first response. To get the details out of the way: 2 years old, vertical loops (3 200' deep as I recall) and no reason to feel there are any major problems. There are some airflow questions about a specific room on the 2nd floor, but that's not related to this thread at all.

    Yes, I've read the manual. Thats why I know about the dip switches. However it doesn't speak to what that whole bank does.

    I understand the water pump is staged out when aux heat is called. Just how much that helps is just one of the many things I want to learn from the test. Really, that's just part of why I'm asking about SW2-5. Hopefully, it leaves "W", shuts of aux hot water heat, and doesn't turn on the aux heat elements.

    No, no problems related to the aux. As you've voice, aux heat is a common aspect of HP's, at least her in the midwest, and I'm not concerned that it runs from time to time. I expect it too. Actually, I quite pleased w/the unit all in all. That's not to say I don't want to know about the performance envelope of the unit, or that I can't be tune my home and system to peform better.

    But lets get this out of the way: I love my installer, we've a good relationship, and they do a good job. I typicall talk w/the owner. Of course he doesn't usually know all the dip switch setting either.

    But lets be fair. Most installers would really like to have semi informed owners. In fact, they really expect that final tuning and tweaking like this comes from me. I mean, really; How can I expect them to gather the amount of data and experience I have from living in the home? They and I have discussed several changes I've made in the past, and they'll know about anything I decide to do here.

    Of course there are plenty of reasons for wanting to know how the unit performs w/aux it. Here are the two most on my mind presently.

    Setback programming. Not something I feel I can experiment w/now, but if I could setback and not have aux come on when the programs calls for it, I expect I'd be happier: My family would all me more comfortable at night set back about 4 degrees, I'd reduce my heat load by close to 10%, and both would occur at night when the home has no solar heat gain to help it out.

    Do I even need 3rd stage? Probably not, frankly. I leave the 4th zone (a 2000' uninsulated basement) "out" most of the time. I know I can heat all 4 zones to 73F w/ OT as low as 10F, and I think I can sustain any OT w/the 4th zone out. But I don't know, and won't until I can turn it off..

    I can get a fair idea of how the home is thermally performing performing if I can establish at what temp the home's actual break point is. I used Load Calc back when I was selecting vendors, and I want to re-check projects against actuals. Harder to do figure w/a dual capacity 4 zone home, but if I can establish the low OT the home can maintain w/Aux I believe I can get a fair idea of where I'm at.

    My thanks to any that can help.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    N.E. KS
    Posts
    717
    "I understand the water pump is staged out when aux heat is called. Just how much that helps is just one of the many things I want to learn from the test. Really, that's just part of why I'm asking about SW2-5. Hopefully, it leaves "W", shuts of aux hot water heat, and doesn't turn on the aux heat elements."

    SW2-5 in off position does not allow electric staging. The microprocessor will not see any electric heat strips. It will allow electric heat on an emergency heat input if you have your zone control configured that way. I am not familiar with the carrier zone control.

    I dought if your water loop will stage off with that switch in the off position. The water loop shouldn't run much in the night anyway. Does not say anything about it in the manual. You can always manually shut it off on the front of your unit with the DW switch for your tests.

    Hope this helps.
    Some people know the cost of everything but the value of nothing.

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