Yeah, that's been 100% of the failures we have seen. The shaft seal on the pump leaks and oil seeps into the motor which eventually takes out the front bearing. Viking pumps and baldor motors. The pitco part number I listed in the previous post is for pump/motor assembly with (supposedly) redesigned seal.
I've done about a half dozen in a year, I always thought it was that white powder they put in there oil to polish it. I totally noticed the new motor last week. Such a nasty job first thing in the morning. Glad they found out it was they Baldor motors. I always replace the steel hose.
I've done about a half dozen in a year, I always thought it was that white powder they put in there oil to polish it. I totally noticed the new motor last week. Such a nasty job first thing in the morning. Glad they found out it was they Baldor motors. I always replace the steel hose.
actually it was the pumps - shaft seal leaks oil into the motor. The new viking pump looks identical except for the number on the name plate. Supposed to have redesigned seals. Time will tell...
When I picked up a motor one time from them, call all phase, who is a contractor was there picking up motors and dropping off more for Frymaster fryers to be rebuilt also, it was only about $200 or so for getting the motor rebuilt
actually it was the pumps - shaft seal leaks oil into the motor. The new viking pump looks identical except for the number on the name plate. Supposed to have redesigned seals. Time will tell...
Thanks for clarifying, I guess only time will tell. I always thought the pumps were bulletproof! Unless they try to pump some cold shortening or a chicken bone through them.
I've always wanted to make "upgrade" kits for problem parts like these.
For example, for the BadBozo Frymaster oil pump upgrade, the specs would be as follows:
2 HP, single phase, capacitor start and run, totally enclosed with external fan on far end of shaft, hanging off the back of the fryer.
2-speed intermediate auto-granny-downshift gearbox for those larger pieces of debris that might get caught in the pump.
Open coupling between the pump and motor with a 6" diameter slinger just after the pump proper.
Optional slinger Direct-O-Shield to aim the oil somewhere convienient.
Backup 6" slinger near motor, no Direct-O-Shield offered here. If there's oil thrown by this, call repairman. You got big problems.
No seal at all on the pump, let the slinger deal with it.
No hardening sealer allowed on any fittings, and only 10-year olds are allowed to tighten pipe fittings at the factory.
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Originally Posted by cjpwalker
