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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    25,567
    Quote Originally Posted by timebuilder View Post
    JP, would this be a good application for a CROT, with the door being left open, etc, making the compressor work hard all the time?
    It wouldn't hurt.

    OR an MOP TEV as icemeister mentioned.

    Both tend to serve the same load limiting purpose.


    If this thing has an undersized condenser and it's dirty, hang it up until it is cleaned.

  2. #15
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    The Pas, Manitoba Canada
    Posts
    212
    You said you were "pushed" away from cleaning the condenser on one of the calls. Clean condenser is a must to even come close to a diagnosis. way over most of the time cleaning the condenser solves the compressor electrics blowup if the compressor does restart. Cleaning a condenser is way easier than changing a burnt compressor.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    203
    Cleaning a condenser is way easier than changing a burnt compressor.
    OP, repeat this sentence to yourself over and over again until you start cleaning condensers that look clean before you do ANYTHING else to everything you touch. Seriously.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    12,077
    325 is 123ish Saturated. You got 115ish liquid line temp. So you have subcooling, but flashing through the glass. I would be curious the delta T across the condenser and the TD. I think this would tell us how much work the condenser is doing against spec. Those kinds of Condensing Units are rated for like a 20 to 30 degree TD, you'll have to check. What is the outlet liquid temp of the condenser before the reciever.

    Sounds first off you have non condensibles. Flash, but subcooling. This is what jumps out at me. How can you be in a saturated state, which is flash, but yet measure subcooling. Maybe influenced by the reciever? This is a dead ringer to me to prove out non condensibles. Atleast rule it out. This is why I want to know more about the conditions of the condenser. What are we doing in there?

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    McKinney, Texas
    Posts
    10
    Had the same problem with a Heatcraft walk-in cooler. And I swear it took more than one call to figure it out. But anyway, there are multiple issues from prior companies adding unneeded parts and since the company had just moved into the store, they had no past records of who had been there or what was done. The condenser coil on this unit took over 2 hours to clean because it was so greasy and full of cottonwood. Head pressure was spiking and the suction was running low or even in a negative at some points. Changed out the txv, removed to suction line filter drier that looked older than me, and still had the same problem. Finally checked fan control and found out that the timing was right but at the exact same time as another cooler right next to it. After adjusting that, same problem. Finally I realized that my indoor solenoid wasn't opening and actually kept frying. Issue was that the gasket wasn't replaced correctly before I had even gotten there so every time we charged it when we thought we had the problem fixed, it would all leak out. You would think a youngster like me would know that there are a problem when there is orange oil all over the solenoid. Long story short. Replaced t-stat and solenoid. A suction line filter drier will make a unit do crazy things too.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Joplin,Missouri
    Posts
    310
    It doesn't matter what kind of unit it is always clean the coil when high head pressure is an issue ALWAYS

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