To answer some of your questions. The reason Digicool uses a 200psi transducer is because it is more accurate that way. When you look at the specs of different DRSA's they give you an accuracy. That is over the full scale of the transducer. So a 200psi transducer is more accurate than say a 500psi one.
It flashes to let you know your over the pressure the transducer is capable of reading. This way your not actually using what its telling you for troubleshooting. THis is NO different the the Retard scale on a regular bourdon tube gauge..
If you need to verify standing pressure use the High side gauge... They should be reading the same pressure.. You can buy the hoses with inline ball valves like me to make that easier..
If you are pressure testing a system use the high side transducer if you want to test above 200psi.. With the 1 psi bar graph it is still way more accurate and easy to see a leak then analogs.. But if you can keep it in the 175 range which I suppose most of us do its really easy to see a 1/4 or 1/2 psi drop on that bar graph..
Finally if your low side of a system is running 200+ psi with R410a you have bigger problems then a flashing DRSA...
..If you are pressure testing a system use the high side transducer if you want to test above 200psi.. With the 1 psi bar graph it is still way more accurate and easy to see a leak then analogs.. But if you can keep it in the 175 range which I suppose most of us do its really easy to see a 1/4 or 1/2 psi drop on that bar graph..
Originally Posted by Pascone10
i appreciate your input. yeah i think ill have to get a t for y high side so i can bleed pressure into the low side. another good thing with the t is that when its equalizing through the txv slowly your not fooled for a leak like i have been thats why i like a gage on my low side if my hi side drops but my low side rises then i know its just equalizing. but the T eliminates all the guessing ima have to try the psi scale for pressure test. i never used that before. so i just select psi and monitor it with that scale also i like the hold feature that i can press that was mentioned before
If thats your concern forget the T and leave both valve open. Periodically check your manifold for leaks..
Originally Posted by anthonyac1
Seriously, you don't need to pressure test for leaks at super-high pressures.
Try it at 100PSI. That's about as high as I'll go.
with the didgicool gages whats the setting you set the gage to read in tenths while leak checking? I scanned through my units but didn't find much. I read a post a while back that talked about it but cant find it looking for your input??
Originally Posted by jpsmith1cm
Generally, the DC's low side reads in 1/10ths of a PSI... while the high side reads in PSI. The low side goes up to around 200 PSI, while the high side goes higher than one needs.
I generally pressure test around 150-ish (wherever the pressure settles when I fill it up with N2)... The goal is when it settles, it does NOT go down for a few minutes.
Most of the time I will go ahead and use BigBlue on the joints I just brazed... kinda a double-check.
Then of course dump the N2 and let the vacuum pump chug along for around an hour. Most vacuums settle around 200-250, and rise to around 400 or so.
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Here's what I do when I'm leak testing.
Originally Posted by anthonyac1
Hook the gauges up, pressure the system up and let the pressure stabilize.
Once it has stabilized, switch the unit mode from 1 SEC update rate to HOLD.
In the HOLD mode, the bar graph still works but the numbers on the display don't update.
Come back in 15 minutes. If the bar graph has dropped off hard to the left, you've got a leak somewhere.