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  1. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Dodge City Kansas
    Posts
    13

    Open Heating Element

    Hey Capz, how's it goin'?

    When you mentioned open heating element, do you mean an element that's in the on position or an element that's not working?

    I'm not sure how you meant that. But your post seems really on the mark about the random humidity. I just went to a call like this.

    I'm on my way back, never did a diagnostic on it yet. Too much other stuff in front of that.

    Russ

    Quote Originally Posted by Capz View Post
    I don't know bout the rest of you guys but my first check involves an amp meter. This type of issue is why I preach electrical skills are mandatory for a tech in the field running service calls.

    Probably the reason why he is seeing uneven ice is due to long defrost times with one or more open heating elements, temps in box rising above 32F and some air defrost going on.

  2. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Posts
    427
    Quote Originally Posted by RussS View Post
    Hey Capz, how's it goin'?

    When you mentioned open heating element, do you mean an element that's in the on position or an element that's not working?

    I'm not sure how you meant that. But your post seems really on the mark about the random humidity. I just went to a call like this.

    I'm on my way back, never did a diagnostic on it yet. Too much other stuff in front of that.

    Russ
    Open element=no resistance thus no current passing thru or possibly the element could be wired in series with a temp switch. I.e. closes at 25F opens at 45F. usually if an element opens it causes a short but I guess it's possible it doesn't short to ground & trip the breaker.

  3. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fremont, Indiana
    Posts
    1,412
    Quote Originally Posted by yotaman16 View Post
    Did ou make sure the drain is trapped
    ????????
    Trap on a WI?


    sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note
    Member of the "Work Exchange Program"
    "Will work for knowledge"

    "Everyone is a genius. But if you judge a fish on its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid"
    A Einstein

  4. #30
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Chicagoland Area
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    4,509
    Quote Originally Posted by MAC AIR View Post
    I recently ran into a problem where the customers walk in freezer was having a similar problem.......snow everywhere ....frost on the product ..frost on the ceiling ......The walk in is located in a non air conditioned warehouse.....When the product is delivered they leave the w/i door open while they are stocking. So naturally I blamed it on them leaving the door open for so long.....and after checking everything , defrost clock, heaters, fan delay....all ok. Then one day I was there for something else and I figured while I was there I would take a look at the w/i . I happened to go in right when the the box satisfied on temp. and evap fans turned off. Who ever installed the box . Wired it up so that the evap fans shut off when box makes temp.....and when it kicks on it just makes it mist for just second and of course the mist turns to frost instantly.
    Snow is different than frost on the coil. Many times caused by the panels of the box seperating
    Officially, Down for the count

    YOU HAVE TO GET OFF YOUR ASS TO GET ON YOUR FEET

    I know enough to know, I don't know enough
    Liberalism-Ideas so good they mandate them

  5. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Chicagoland Area
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    4,509
    Quote Originally Posted by kamersoutdoor View Post
    ????????
    Trap on a WI?


    sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note
    It's recommended to trap a WIF if the drain terminates in an unconditioned space or outdoors. Remember heat travels to cold. Without a trap, you have created a "hole" for air infiltration
    Officially, Down for the count

    YOU HAVE TO GET OFF YOUR ASS TO GET ON YOUR FEET

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  6. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fremont, Indiana
    Posts
    1,412
    Quote Originally Posted by 2sac View Post
    It's recommended to trap a WIF if the drain terminates in an unconditioned space or outdoors. Remember heat travels to cold. Without a trap, you have created a "hole" for air infiltration
    Was working on a wi freezer several yrs back where the pan was icing.
    The drain was trapped and freezing (yes heat tape).
    I called it in and was going to reduce it (trap was like 6" ) only to be told that wi's do not need trapped, and to just remove it!
    I looked around at the other units and to my surprise, not a one was trapped.
    To this day I've yet to see another trapped wi, so I took this as a solid! Even prefab polar kings have no trap around here!

    Have I been decieved?


    sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note
    Member of the "Work Exchange Program"
    "Will work for knowledge"

    "Everyone is a genius. But if you judge a fish on its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid"
    A Einstein

  7. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Guayaquil EC
    Posts
    10,259
    Quote Originally Posted by kamersoutdoor View Post
    Was working on a wi freezer several yrs back where the pan was icing.
    The drain was trapped and freezing (yes heat tape).
    I called it in and was going to reduce it (trap was like 6" ) only to be told that wi's do not need trapped, and to just remove it!
    I looked around at the other units and to my surprise, not a one was trapped.
    To this day I've yet to see another trapped wi, so I took this as a solid! Even prefab polar kings have no trap around here!

    Have I been decieved?


    sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note
    From your description of the trap you removed, it was located inside the freezer, which is a no-no...however all walk-in evaps require drain traps.

    If the trap is located in an ambient which can see below freezing temperature...such as with an outdoor walk-in...the trap must be heated to prevent freezing.

    Here's a link to Heatcraft's I&O Manual. (See p.9):

    http://www.heatcraftrpd.com/products...5CH-IM-64L.pdf

  8. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fremont, Indiana
    Posts
    1,412
    Quote Originally Posted by icemeister View Post
    From your description of the trap you removed, it was located inside the freezer, which is a no-no...however all walk-in evaps require drain traps.

    If the trap is located in an ambient which can see below freezing temperature...such as with an outdoor walk-in...the trap must be heated to prevent freezing.

    Here's a link to Heatcraft's I&O Manual. (See p.9):

    http://www.heatcraftrpd.com/products...5CH-IM-64L.pdf
    Thx for the link
    The trap I referred to was located outside. It was however, excessively trapped.
    I still have yet to see an outside condensate trapped.
    At least I know I wasn't crazy for thinking one should exist!

    sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note
    Member of the "Work Exchange Program"
    "Will work for knowledge"

    "Everyone is a genius. But if you judge a fish on its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid"
    A Einstein

  9. #35
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Brooklyn, NY
    Posts
    99
    i would do the following steps in order:
    1) check proper refrigerant charge, if correct go to next
    2) check defrost heating element, if good, next
    3) check timer, see if it's stuck on refrigeration cycle, see if it goes into defrost cycle, make sure you set enough time for it to defrost
    4) check defrost termination relay, if it shows continuity regardless of the temperature, that means it will cause the timer to get back to the refrigeration cycle as soon as the defrost cycle starts, which means u wont get defrost. if it shows no continuity regardless of temperature (although this case is less important, but it will be bad for the compressor overtime), it means IF the evaporator gets too hot on defrost cycle, it won't trip and go back to the refrigeration cycle, which means the compressor will work harder in the start to get it down to the temperature

  10. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Chicagoland Area
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    Quote Originally Posted by EEAllen View Post
    i would do the following steps in order:
    1) check proper refrigerant charge, if correct go to next
    2) check defrost heating element, if good, next
    3) check timer, see if it's stuck on refrigeration cycle, see if it goes into defrost cycle, make sure you set enough time for it to defrost
    4) check defrost termination relay, if it shows continuity regardless of the temperature, that means it will cause the timer to get back to the refrigeration cycle as soon as the defrost cycle starts, which means u wont get defrost. if it shows no continuity regardless of temperature (although this case is less important, but it will be bad for the compressor overtime), it means IF the evaporator gets too hot on defrost cycle, it won't trip and go back to the refrigeration cycle, which means the compressor will work harder in the start to get it down to the temperature
    Coils not frozen. Read the title of the thread
    Officially, Down for the count

    YOU HAVE TO GET OFF YOUR ASS TO GET ON YOUR FEET

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  11. #37
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Chicagoland Area
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    4,509
    And this is not a DIY site. Info is limited in the open forums. Please respect that. Get your post count up to 15 and apply for pro membership
    Officially, Down for the count

    YOU HAVE TO GET OFF YOUR ASS TO GET ON YOUR FEET

    I know enough to know, I don't know enough
    Liberalism-Ideas so good they mandate them

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