Hotpoint refrigerator defrost problem

[chaard]

I have worked as a appliance repair tech before and am now doing HVAC. I normally post in the Technical forum.

I have a Hotpoint refrigerator that I've owned for a few yrs. now.

Once before the defrost quit working. I checked for a defrost timer and found this unit is controlled by a circuit board in the back. Didn't know how to send it into defrost to check the operation. But was able to determine the heater was bad. I replaced the heater and defrost thermostat.That worked fine a couple of yrs. ago.

Now my rerigerator is not defrosting again. Probably the same problem. I will check the heater again once I melt all of the ice.

Any suggestions on how to send it into defrost to check voltage at the heater?

[frigetater]

can't remember the exact sequence.....but seems like you do something with the door switch... I will see if I can find the info for you

[atozsvc]

have been talk to GE. Three yrs ago,They told me it can be advance to defrost cycle,this adaptive defrost control by sensors and the fan running by dc.I have the service manule but still have not told how advance to defrost.

[chaard]

I defrosted unit. A couple minutes after I turned the unit off the fan came on in low speed. I figure the unit went into defrost mode. Checked voltage at heater, 13v. Heater ohmed at 0. Will p/u another heater and defrost thermostat.

[rayr]

13v??? Is that the correct voltage??? Not familiar with the newer ones, but I worked on domestics for many years. If that is a glass tube heater, keep your fingers off the tube. Use gloves to install it. If you do not subsequent failures are not far away.

[chaard]

No 13v is not correct. I'll update when I repair it.

[atozsvc]

the heater is 120v.If you jump the pins at contacts there is spark that means the heater is ok.
The fan is dc.and adjust the speed by the adaptive module.
You can have the service manule at appliance parts co

[chaard]

the heater is 120v.If you jump the pins at contacts there is spark that means the heater is ok.
The fan is dc.and adjust the speed by the adaptive module.
You can have the service manule at appliance parts co

I think I'll stick with using my multimeter, thanks.
I am not new to appliances or HVAC. I just needed some info on how to send this unit into defrost.
Mod#HSS221FPAWW Ser#DF247701
I only posted in this forum cause it's the refrigeration forum. I should have posted this in the technical forum.

[94blowncobra]

If you have a digital led control you can advance it into defrost. If its just a knob control you have to manualy go to the control board behind the frig and jump out the board. There is a 3 wire connector on there one is a power wire and the others are defrost and refrigeration. Cant remember but i think the brown wire is the defrost circuit.Use a jumper wire from power to defrost (Yes this is the correct way) to engage defrost manualy. I couldnt stand these GE unit...

This post is old, hopfully you already figured it out.

[atozsvc]

That is what they (ge) told me.and is my 2 cents.
Everybody are good serviceman here.

[chaard]

I got the heater and defrost terminator in. I was not able to manually send it into defrost. I did try jumping out the Line side to the defrost like
94blowncobra said but all it did was send power to the heater. It did not send the unit into defrost. Will watch it and see if ice builds up again. But I did take care of one problem. I don't forsee a second problem.
Geez, this is the second heater in 4 yrs. POS.

[fridg]

Not familiar with your exact system , but there should be a timer down where the comp is , most of these systems go into defrost every 8 hours or so of comp run time.


the timer could have a dial on it to advance the timer forward.


most of these units use the heater element as a neutral

[atozsvc]

Try The Appliancehelp.com.under Arctica Ge Repair Tips

[94blowncobra]

I got the heater and defrost terminator in. I was not able to manually send it into defrost. I did try jumping out the Line side to the defrost like
94blowncobra said but all it did was send power to the heater.

You wont be tripping it into defrost, you can only jump it into defrost like you already did. Once you pull the wire it kills power to the heaters. And yes, all you are doing is jumping the high volt side, 120 over to the heater circuit. Its a strange animal that board is, unlike all the other brands that you can actually trip to board to going into defrost for its 25 mins or what ever.

Like i said before, the models that have the digital led controls with 4 up and down temp buttons can be advanved into defrost by holding all 4 buttons down at the same time for like 5 seconds. Ones with the knobs to adjust temp you have to do the jumper wire deal.

Yes, those glass heaters GE/Hotpoint you are notorious for burning out. Every 2 year is common, especialy if you live where there are alot of power interruptions. Looks like you got it going, i wouldnt sweat it until about 2 more years

[chaard]

You wont be tripping it into defrost, you can only jump it into defrost like you already did. Once you pull the wire it kills power to the heaters. And yes, all you are doing is jumping the high volt side, 120 over to the heater circuit. Its a strange animal that board is, unlike all the other brands that you can actually trip to board to going into defrost for its 25 mins or what ever.

Like i said before, the models that have the digital led controls with 4 up and down temp buttons can be advanved into defrost by holding all 4 buttons down at the same time for like 5 seconds. Ones with the knobs to adjust temp you have to do the jumper wire deal.

Yes, those glass heaters GE/Hotpoint you are notorious for burning out. Every 2 year is common, especialy if you live where there are alot of power interruptions. Looks like you got it going, i wouldnt sweat it until about 2 more years

Great?!

Why don't they make refrigerators with hot gas bypass?

[icehouse]

They did 35 years ago GE was the best made, however cost came into play