Mistake hole? I would call it a practice hole
Looking good! I have been thinking of doing the same with my 1250.
After checking a Cooper-Atkins pipe wrap probe against the stock Digi-Cool probe at 6 different temperatures from -10ºF to +200ºF, I decided to go ahead and do it.
More pictures after I fix the mistake hole I made in the case.
Mistake hole? I would call it a practice hole
Looking good! I have been thinking of doing the same with my 1250.
What does this mod achieve? Changing the sensor input location and differnet type of sensors? I'm interested on what improvements it makes. Is this a mod on an AK900?
My intent was to make a countersunk area around the smaller hole the jack mounts to, but I mistakenly had my drill on high speed, and the countersink bit into the plastic real hard and went all the way through.
Nothing some JB Weld won't fix, and I think I'll like having the probes plug in up higher more than down low.
It's a DRSA-1250, the mod allows the use of Cooper-Atkins thermistor probes.
In my case, I'm using the #4011 pipe wrap probes because their design is superior to the probes available from Digi-Cool, or any of the other digital manifold makers.
They have very low thermal mass, so respond very quickly, and are much better isolated from the ambient air temperature.
They also only cost about $50 each.
At some point I'll pick up another Digi-Cool gauge set, probably an AK900, and will modify them to accept the Cooper probes too, so I can use the same probes with multiple gauges.
The more common mod is to make an adapter for the probe socket on the gauge so that the Cooper probes can be used, but I didn't want to have to deal with an adapter.
I just wish Testo didn't use proprietary thermistors with the 550, or I'd do a mod for it too.
Lookn good Mark. Those sensors are sweet. Are those the standard panel mount jacks from Radio Shack just covered with shrink wrap?
“If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball”
Yeah, I wanted something better, but it is slim pickins in the 1/8" size. 1/4" has a much better selection, including locking and water proof jacks.
The plug and wiring are from an old PWM controlled computer fan I had in a junk box.
I used shrink wrap that has an adhesive inside of it to help protect against accidental water intrusion. They are no longer water proof enough to submerge, or leave out in the rain for hours, but they are protected enough for the occasional splash.
A few drops of water getting in the jacks won't hurt anything.
I'm thinking of mixing up a little of the 2 part silicon rubber I use for condensation proofing chilled water cooled electronic parts and injecting it into the jacks, then plugging the sensors in until it cures.
Once it cures, the plugs will slide in and out like normal, but the jack will be completely sealed against water getting into the gauge housing.
LOL typical heating and cooling tradesman... just can't NOT tear something apart and make it better...I once gutted an electric furnace and redid everything because I did not like the way the wiring was done...and I had some time on my hands...Shift+R improves the quality of this image. Shift+A improves the quality of all images on this page.
Very cool Mark! Can't wait to see finished photos.
Have you set up a Google alert for Carbon Monoxide yet?
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Lookin good! Those Cooper sensors work great with Digicools.
You sure that mod will hold up?
I've head rumors that the adaptation was not 100% successful.
Is the resistance vale thru the cooper sensors the same as the DC?
If not I think that would affect accuracy,,,would it not?
HMMM....BTW....aren't you GreeK?
The maximum difference in resistance between the stock Digi-Cool thermistor and the Cooper probe was 0.2 ohms, from -10ºF through +200ºF.
It is actually silicon for make-up effects.
Dragon Skin FX-Pro.
http://www.smooth-on.com/Silicone-Ru...339/index.html
I like it because it will fill in tiny voids, even under capacitors and other parts on PCB boards, but is easy to peal back off without tearing parts off the PCB.
Of course the most important thing is that it doesn't off gas anything that will eat electronics while it's curing, like a lot of silicon products do.
I have been tempted to mod mine in a very similar way.
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I use 2 Cooper clamps most of the time and I have a Cooper strap sensor in case space is limited or the suction pipe is large.
I'm doing a tool inventory and I am pricing the modified jack at 200 bucks lol.