I'm finally doing my Digi-cool mod.

[Chuck]

What is a good online source for Cooper tools?

[tech45]

I bought mine local at Aireco ( a great supply house overall from some things I read on here ).

I wish I still had my old cooper 3 lead , it was old and I gave it away years ago.

You wont be sorry for the clamps. You wont eat as well the week that you buy them but they are quality stuff.

[itsiceman]

Thanks for posting the pictures.
It looks like they are using the same sensor in those as they do in the pipe wrap probes, which is good.
The actual thermistor is on the back side of the metal that looks like it is wrapped around the foam like material. The metal protects the thermistor, and aids heat transfer to it.

I guess I'll go ahead and order a couple of them, and keep the pipe wrap probes as spares, and for when I'm working on larger equipment.

From seeing all the mountings it looks like the 4011 pipe wrap allows for the least ambient air around the sensor next would be the wireless clamp then the wired clamp I know from testing the wireless one vs the pipe strap there is a difference. From the look of it the clamp version will be even further off than the wireless version in the field. The pipe strap looks like the best one as far as far as precise measurements and at the least cost. Last one I bought was 46 bucks!!! (@J-Mart chuckcrj)

[hvac5646]

Do you have a web link to the stuff you use?

Is there some reason you won't answer my question, Yturbo? Or are you shamed by your nationality.

I mean no offense by asking, I just would like to know and start a civil dialog with you..

[SBKold]

He said he wasn't Greek.

[jpsmith1cm]

Is there some reason you won't answer my question, Yturbo? Or are you shamed by your nationality.

I mean no offense by asking, I just would like to know and start a civil dialog with you..

Might be a better topic for its own thread.

[hvac5646]

Might be a better topic for its own thread.

Uncles PM file say other wise. Read it after I asked you.

[hvac5646]

I am not Greek.

Uncles' PM file say other wise. He showed it to me after I asked you

[cuervo]

On another note, I thought of a way for Digi-Cool DRSA-1100 and 1600 owners to mod their units to do SH and SC with 2 probes.
Those models only support one temperature prob, so normally the probe needs to be moved from one line to the other when switching between SH and SC.

Do a mod to plug 2 probes in, like I did, but wire them to a DPDT switch mounted where the existing prob connection port is.
To switch between measuring SH and SC, you just hit the mode button to change to calculating SH or SC, and flip the switch to use the appropriate probe.

Like this.............
These are my 1600's with the DPDT switch modification. I did this over the past summer. I got the idea from someone on a youtube video. The inside is not as neat as your modification. But they are still water proof and work great. They are 1 degree apart between the 2 probe. I did have them measured against other thermometers and are all within 2 degrees of each other like your previous post. I'm happy with the results and I don't care what clover thinks. Yes, I have the AK900's but these are still my go to gauges.

IMO I don't get why the Digi-cool haters out there still say what they say. Digi-cools were built for techs to alter if needed and still be amazingly accurate.

[y7turbo]

Uncles' PM file say other wise. He showed it to me after I asked you

Just because I can read and say the greek swear words that your uncle used to say on here doesn't mean I'm greek.

[itsiceman]

hvac5646 are you the same guys who posts comments on youtube that goes by hvac5646?

[hvac5646]

hvac5646 are you the same guys who posts comments on youtube that goes by hvac5646?

No I am not

[beachtech]

would be nice if doug would just supply his gauges ready to use with these thermocouples!

the only thing i've never cared much for or use are the temp probes that came with my 1250's

my temp probes have random patches of heat shrink on them where i've had to solder them back together ins various places over the years lol but they still work when i really need them. but on the regular, i just use my clamp meter and a temp clamp from FP

[itsiceman]

Just trying to help take it or leave it

Antisocial Personality Disorder?

http://similarminds.com/personality_disorder.html

[beachtech]

Just trying to help take it or leave it

Antisocial Personality Disorder?

http://similarminds.com/personality_disorder.html

what? you want results or sumthin???

[itsiceman]

No, if some one had a disorder like that they would lie about that too

[itsiceman]

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antis...ality_disorder. Look under diagnosis ....... Know anyone? How would you help?

[suBcools]

So I'm ordering a set of the AK900's. I was curious, after reading this thread (it seems everyone in this thread is very familiar with the DC's), if anyone had experience with the pipe clamps and also the sensors that are embedded in rubber and lock down with a velcro strap. I'm planning on ordering one of the two, and was curious on any recommendations. Are there are any issues with either of the two I mentioned? I currently have an SMAN3, but my only gripe with them is the accuracy of the k type clamps. I can calibrate them every day, and they still won't be calibrated. Bottom line is that I don't trust them. Some of the XC-21's that I frequently work with have subcooling targets of 2.5 degrees. If my clamps are a degree or two out, it can drastically affect charge. I'll calibrate them, then put them both on the same pipe directly next to eachother and read as much as 3-4 degrees difference. Put them back in crused ice/water mix, and they'll read 32 on the dot. It's more that they don't remain calibrated at different temps, other than 32. I'm really hoping to avoid this with thermistor type sensors, and want to be sure to select the correct ones. Thanks for any input.

[mark beiser]

Some of the XC-21's that I frequently work with have subcooling targets of 2.5 degrees.

Unless the systems have 15' refrigerant line sets, with the outdoor and indoor units on the same level, you will need more subcooling than that for the systems to work correctly, regardless of what the data plate calls for.

[suBcools]

Unless the systems have 15' refrigerant line sets, with the outdoor and indoor units on the same level, you will need more subcooling than that for the systems to work correctly, regardless of what the data plate calls for.

I have also thought the same thing, basically wondering how 2.5 degrees of subcooling could yield a solid column to the expansion valve. On the other hand, i wonder why the engineers would spec that if it wouldn't work. I can't find anywhere in the literature i have indicating higher subcooling for different size line sets. Anyways, i don't want to hi Jack the thread, sorry about that.

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