I'm finally doing my Digi-cool mod.

[beachtech]

would be nice if doug would just supply his gauges ready to use with these thermocouples!

the only thing i've never cared much for or use are the temp probes that came with my 1250's

my temp probes have random patches of heat shrink on them where i've had to solder them back together ins various places over the years lol but they still work when i really need them. but on the regular, i just use my clamp meter and a temp clamp from FP

[itsiceman]

Just trying to help take it or leave it

Antisocial Personality Disorder?

http://similarminds.com/personality_disorder.html

[beachtech]

Just trying to help take it or leave it

Antisocial Personality Disorder?

http://similarminds.com/personality_disorder.html

what? you want results or sumthin???

[itsiceman]

No, if some one had a disorder like that they would lie about that too

[itsiceman]

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antis...ality_disorder. Look under diagnosis ....... Know anyone? How would you help?

[suBcools]

So I'm ordering a set of the AK900's. I was curious, after reading this thread (it seems everyone in this thread is very familiar with the DC's), if anyone had experience with the pipe clamps and also the sensors that are embedded in rubber and lock down with a velcro strap. I'm planning on ordering one of the two, and was curious on any recommendations. Are there are any issues with either of the two I mentioned? I currently have an SMAN3, but my only gripe with them is the accuracy of the k type clamps. I can calibrate them every day, and they still won't be calibrated. Bottom line is that I don't trust them. Some of the XC-21's that I frequently work with have subcooling targets of 2.5 degrees. If my clamps are a degree or two out, it can drastically affect charge. I'll calibrate them, then put them both on the same pipe directly next to eachother and read as much as 3-4 degrees difference. Put them back in crused ice/water mix, and they'll read 32 on the dot. It's more that they don't remain calibrated at different temps, other than 32. I'm really hoping to avoid this with thermistor type sensors, and want to be sure to select the correct ones. Thanks for any input.

[mark beiser]

Some of the XC-21's that I frequently work with have subcooling targets of 2.5 degrees.

Unless the systems have 15' refrigerant line sets, with the outdoor and indoor units on the same level, you will need more subcooling than that for the systems to work correctly, regardless of what the data plate calls for.

[suBcools]

Unless the systems have 15' refrigerant line sets, with the outdoor and indoor units on the same level, you will need more subcooling than that for the systems to work correctly, regardless of what the data plate calls for.

I have also thought the same thing, basically wondering how 2.5 degrees of subcooling could yield a solid column to the expansion valve. On the other hand, i wonder why the engineers would spec that if it wouldn't work. I can't find anywhere in the literature i have indicating higher subcooling for different size line sets. Anyways, i don't want to hi Jack the thread, sorry about that.

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2

[mark beiser]

I have also thought the same thing, basically wondering how 2.5 degrees of subcooling could yield a solid column to the expansion valve. On the other hand, i wonder why the engineers would spec that if it wouldn't work. I can't find anywhere in the literature i have indicating higher subcooling for different size line sets. Anyways, i don't want to hi Jack the thread, sorry about that.

Since virtually all of the residential systems I work on have at least 35' line sets, and usually have the indoor coil >8' above the outdoor unit, I pretty much ignore Lennox and Goodman's ridiculously low suggested subcooling numbers, and charge the systems for best operation.
IMO, their low subcooling target is part of how they game the ARI ratings, and doesn't apply to the reality of most installations.

[pageyjim]

So I'm ordering a set of the AK900's. I was curious, after reading this thread (it seems everyone in this thread is very familiar with the DC's), if anyone had experience with the pipe clamps and also the sensors that are embedded in rubber and lock down with a velcro strap. I'm planning on ordering one of the two, and was curious on any recommendations. Are there are any issues with either of the two I mentioned? I currently have an SMAN3, but my only gripe with them is the accuracy of the k type clamps. I can calibrate them every day, and they still won't be calibrated. Bottom line is that I don't trust them. Some of the XC-21's that I frequently work with have subcooling targets of 2.5 degrees. If my clamps are a degree or two out, it can drastically affect charge. I'll calibrate them, then put them both on the same pipe directly next to eachother and read as much as 3-4 degrees difference. Put them back in crused ice/water mix, and they'll read 32 on the dot. It's more that they don't remain calibrated at different temps, other than 32. I'm really hoping to avoid this with thermistor type sensors, and want to be sure to select the correct ones. Thanks for any input.

I also have the SMAN 3 and have had the same expererience and concerns.

[beachtech]

Since virtually all of the residential systems I work on have at least 35' line sets, and usually have the indoor coil >8' above the outdoor unit, I pretty much ignore Lennox and Goodman's ridiculously low suggested subcooling numbers, and charge the systems for best operation.
IMO, their low subcooling target is part of how they game the ARI ratings, and doesn't apply to the reality of most installations.

i could not agree more!!!!!!!!!!!

[beachtech]

No, if some one had a disorder like that they would lie about that too

i guess that depends on which disorder they have lmao

[adam_s05]

Hey guys, just putting in my 2 cents. I just modified my ak900 to accept the cooper sensors, works great. I did it the easier way of modifying the temp sensor wiring harness