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Thread: COLEMAN trailer trash...,
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02-19-2013, 05:37 PM #1
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COLEMAN trailer trash...,
Mod DGAA070 BDTA..,Ser. 031002087 Guys.,dont work on these furnaces normally. Intermintant start up issue.,arrived #3code.,stuck pressure switch.checked the usual,hoses,elec,.Then it started ran few time then got #2code open P/Sw. Decided to check inducer motor pressure..,Where is it! of course its in the 4inch intake pipe, took readings, its a 2 hose P/Sw got 0 on one .04inwc on other. Iguess my question is..,how much will this "watch" motor pull?..,how do you get things apart to replace it (has closed Combustion) thing would not act up again while I was there.,I at least want to replace P/S since I believe i found it "stuck' twice! Any thoughts..,thanks ahead. P/Sw.rating was 0.18pr.
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02-19-2013, 05:50 PM #2
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Looks to be 10 years old, I would go on the roof and take a close look at the inside of the roof jack they like to rust from the inside out. The inducer doesn't pull much vacuum not sure on a number usually if its above the switch rating its fine. To get the inducer out pull the front off the combustion chamber and it falls right out.
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02-19-2013, 05:55 PM #3
The draft proving switch activates at 0.20 inches of air pressure.
The pressure switch is normally open. The suction pressure from the intake side, and the positive pressure from the output side, both add up to a positive pressure on the diaphragm of the pressure switch, which causes the electrical contacts inside the pressure switch to close completing the circuit to the IFC.
Send me an emil (address is in my profile), and I will get a service manual off to you on this unit. I don't post manuals in this "OPEN" Tech-Tech forum.Instead of learning the tricks of the trade, learn the trade.
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02-20-2013, 11:14 AM #4
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Call to mobile home in winter in snow country = make sure you have your long ladder with you. When you drive up, make sure the first thing you do before going into the house is locate the chimney assembly and see if it's buried in a snow drift. IMO
Use the biggest hammer you like, pounding a square peg into a round hole does not equal a proper fit.
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02-20-2013, 11:35 AM #5
Those are not that hard to change out they come inside their own pipe assembly, you just slide it out and reassemble off you go.
Certified parts changer.
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02-20-2013, 01:06 PM #6
They have major pressure switch issues, the switch actually closes but the resistance across the contacts is too much for them to actually complete the circuit.
There is also an updated switch available, for more than a year or so. We should have this moved into "Pro" and then maybe we can share more info like part numbers etc.
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02-22-2013, 07:25 AM #7
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Picked up new pressure switch,rated .10 pr old one was .18pr. Been 48hrs no call backs! Thanks all for your input.,rundawg.,you the man!
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02-22-2013, 08:37 AM #8
If I read your post correctly you replaced the pressure switch with one with a different, lower rating. I would have reservations about improper venting but the switch would still close instead of performing its function as a safety device.
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02-22-2013, 06:55 PM #9
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02-23-2013, 10:16 AM #10
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its been a few years, but i was told by the factory that there is a "diverter" plate at the top of the heat exchanger where the flue connects, it's purpose was to slow the combustion gas to improve it's efficiency rating, but it tends to catch carbon and restrict the flue. i was told to remove the flue cap and give it a light tap with a stick. it mostly happens on l.p. units.
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02-23-2013, 03:58 PM #11
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02-23-2013, 11:54 PM #12
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02-24-2013, 01:55 AM #13
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[QUOTE=HeyBob;15260441]They have major pressure switch issues, the switch actually closes but the resistance across the contacts is too much for them to actually complete the circuit.
this just cleared up some of my recent confusion.


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