Get it as clean as you can, flux it, solder it with Stay Bright 8 and a MAP gas torch, and protect the other joints with a wet rag.
Maybe toss in some prayers.
But for an occasional drain line I've almost never done anything but brazing so I'm looking for advice on unsoldering and replacing a 15 ton Sporlan valve may have to change out.
About an inch and a half past the soft soldered outlet where I'd be making the repair and right at or into the case wall is the distributer head which is also soft soldered -that I do not want to get in to.
I'm concerned about possible problems getting a good connection over the old solder (let alone protecting the second joint). And also advice about flux, and keeping that out of the system?
..Seems like this may be a heck of a place to try to ramp up low temp torch skills
Get it as clean as you can, flux it, solder it with Stay Bright 8 and a MAP gas torch, and protect the other joints with a wet rag.
Maybe toss in some prayers.
Are you sure its soft soldered. Just because it looks like soft solder doesnt mean it is. It may be silver solder.
Maybe a little heat sink paste where you don't want heat if you have room.
Wet rag on dist and get r done. Map torch and put the heat where u want it. Don't over think it. If u got a rose bud tip on your AA torch might use it to get the old unsoldered, speed up the process so heat doesn't have time to run down the line. Hit it fast and have another wet rag ready to through on the line.
Thank you for the responses. Yeah I thought there were issues with re-soldering not taking well.
Regarding MAP I assume this is for keeping the temp down while allowing a larger flame (vs a smaller ox/acet flame?
Thank you for the responses. Yeah I thought there were issues with re-soldering not taking well.
Regarding MAP I assume this is for keeping the temp down while allowing a larger flame (vs a smaller ox/acet flame?
Also, the stuff on there is not like the silver wire- knife-scrape' soft.
It's probably 8% silver which is what I would go back with.