I've had some luck over the years cleaning boards with distilled water and a toothbrush. All it takes is a little crust or whatnot to short across a couple traces. If it was underwater it may have some dried up residue. It's worked more than once for me.
I've had some luck over the years cleaning boards with distilled water and a toothbrush. All it takes is a little crust or whatnot to short across a couple traces. If it was underwater it may have some dried up residue. It's worked more than once for me.
I agree.
[Avatar photo from a Florida training accident. Everyone walked away.] 2 Tim 3:16-17
Looking at a Manitowoc J/Q-Series control board (25-1130-3), the output relays appear to be this one, available for under 3 bucks at Mouser Electronics:
Once you determine the coil terminals for the relays (you can see which terminal leads to an IC output for that, and which leads to a common bus) you can determine if the output is connect for the desired function.
You can also see if there is a problem with the ice probe input on the board. Is the IC input getting energized from an adjacent trace? That's why you would want to clean the board, as suggested above, and closely inspect the traces. If there is no input to the IC from the ice probe trace, and yet, the LED is lit, the IC microprocessor may be toast.
If nothing else, this will get you to be more familiar with boards in general.
[Avatar photo from a Florida training accident. Everyone walked away.] 2 Tim 3:16-17
I fixed a board last month for a buddy with a hot tub.
Lightening strike last summer.
It blew one of the traces clean off the board. It went to one of the relays for heater. Its got 2 relays where each one supplies 120 leg to heater , total 240.
One of the relays still worked , and the other relay was damaged along with the missing trace , so I made a jumper with inline fuse and bridged the trace to give it 120 volts all the time , and when the other relay kicked in it would have 240. Been working great.
Sorry for the delay guys and appreciate all the good pointers, advice, tips . . . Here is a summary of what's happening on my end of this thread along with updates, answers.
1. Yes the polarity from the supply power is correct.
2. I cleaned every spot of the board that I could reach with 91% rubbing alcohol prior to plugging it in once I got it in the garage. There are still places on the board that I can not access with out removing components.
3. After removing the relays I re scrubbed the board with alcohol because the areas under the relays were still dirty before replacing them. This is a 2 sided control board
4. After replacing the relays the machine did the same exact thing as before
5. Last night it ran 3 cycles with no problems. Most of the time it just runs it's first cycle and then on #2 the harvest light comes on from the beginning of the cycle regardless of weather or not the ice probe is connected.
6. (AFTER UNPLUGGING for a while) During the first cycle the ice probe functions correctly. I can touch my finger to it and the harvest light comes on, I remove my finger and the light goes off.
6a. (If I just turn it off and then back on) The harvest light comes on at the beginning of the first cycle but it runs long enough to make ice.
7. Thanks again guys.
8. I'm thinking I may have not cleaned the board well enough and still have contamination somewhere on it. I just pulled the board again and cleaned it with some contact cleaner and alcohol. Will let you know what happens.
Walt
Last edited by wobiii; 02-18-2013 at 10:34 PM.
Reason: formatting
So I pulled the board again and cleaned the crap out of it. Nothing new. Something I noticed is that I can get 3 cycles out of it if I unplug it for a while before turning it on before the harvest light starts coming on. Just an observation.
just for S--ts and giggles, take the clean-ice switch out and turn it upside down. Then try the machine. Those switches go bad also and makes one think the board is bad.
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Originally Posted by wobiii
