Control board repairs or work around

[wobiii]

I am a tech that works on residential appliances and on occasion will take on commercial equipment for friends or nuns that call me with a problem. (seems I'm the only one that will help out a nun around here or the only one they call either way EXTREMELY Ironic). I picked up an ice machine that was flooded in the last hurricane we had down here and am either looking to use it at the house or sell it once I get it working.

Does anyone have any experiences with having control boards repaired? I'm in search of a control for a Manitowoc QYO454A and they are expensive as as giraffe nu*s are high. The unit is about 10 years old and is in good shape other than the harvest cycle initiates right after the time out ends. Disconnecting the water probe does nothing.

I've found a site that claims that they can repair them but I'm leery to send the board to them and they say it can't be repaired and lose my shot of getting it fixed in the process. Anyone have a solution, workaround, or advise on this? I'm having a hard time thinking of trashing the machine because of a control board when the sealed system is in working order. It will work make ice on it's first cycle, then errors on the next.

[kamersoutdoor]

I am a tech that works on residential appliances and on occasion will take on commercial equipment for friends or nuns that call me with a problem. (seems I'm the only one that will help out a nun around here or the only one they call either way EXTREMELY Ironic). I picked up an ice machine that was flooded in the last hurricane we had down here and am either looking to use it at the house or sell it once I get it working.

Does anyone have any experiences with having control boards repaired? I'm in search of a control for a Manitowoc QYO454A and they are expensive as as giraffe nu*s are high. The unit is about 10 years old and is in good shape other than the harvest cycle initiates right after the time out ends. Disconnecting the water probe does nothing.

I've found a site that claims that they can repair them but I'm leery to send the board to them and they say it can't be repaired and lose my shot of getting it fixed in the process. Anyone have a solution, workaround, or advise on this? I'm having a hard time thinking of trashing the machine because of a control board when the sealed system is in working order. It will work make ice on it's first cycle, then errors on the next.

I would troubleshoot further (harder) before condemning the board jmo

sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note

[wobiii]

Thanks, but how? Service manual says to run with the ice probe hooked up, then with it off to test it looking for different results. Same results both times. I have read that these boards are pretty damn tough but this one went under water and still runs the machine mostly.

[viceman]

"they are expensive as as giraffe nu*s are high"

cant help you but love the quote

[wobiii]

"they are expensive as as giraffe nu*s are high"

cant help you but love the quote

Thanks Vice. Also let me offer you the qote varation of "high as giraffe nut*" as used most often when dealing with a salesman.

[baub]

I have repaired a number of ice machine boards. If the #3 relay (for the harvest solenoid) on the board is defective that would cause your problem.

[wobiii]

Thank you Baub, I probably have one laying around here so if I can find the right one I'll give it a try. Thanks.

[Tommy knocker]

If you got a relay and wanna try nothing to lose but time. Spend enough time trying to fix it and and you could end up loosing money over just replacing it. That's why service companies rarely mess with it.

[wobiii]

If you got a relay and wanna try nothing to lose but time. Spend enough time trying to fix it and and you could end up loosing money over just replacing it. That's why service companies rarely mess with it.

Thanks and understand the advise but it's a garage project now in my garage so it'll just be drinking beer trying to fix a board learning experience time anyway. I would never do this for a customer because I couldn't guarantee it and the liability that it brings. Best price I could find on a board was 600, so that's a good bit of messing around time.

[timebuilder]

First, I would make sure that the ice probe is nice and clean.

If the problem is still there then I would probably substitute that number 3 relay mentioned above. Microrelays are not designed to be submerged so you might want to pull the covers off of each one to make sure they're clean and dry inside. You can use contact cleaner to clean out the inside

[baub]

[wobiii]

Ok have all relays replaced, not really sure of the condition of every one of them but had enough laying around to replace them. Had one that was rusted to pieced on the inside. So I just reinstalled the board and it's still in its first cycle. Will let you all know in a few what happens. Regardless, thank everyone of you for the help so far.

Walt

[wobiii]

No change at all, same problem. Even with the ice probe disconnected.

[stanbyyourword]

love the beer

[timebuilder]

No change at all, same problem. Even with the ice probe disconnected.

Stubborn guy that I am, I would start looking at the board starting with the harvest probe connection.

[kirkH]

I've had some luck over the years cleaning boards with distilled water and a toothbrush. All it takes is a little crust or whatnot to short across a couple traces. If it was underwater it may have some dried up residue. It's worked more than once for me.

[timebuilder]

I've had some luck over the years cleaning boards with distilled water and a toothbrush. All it takes is a little crust or whatnot to short across a couple traces. If it was underwater it may have some dried up residue. It's worked more than once for me.

I agree.

[refrepairman]

Just wanted updates on this....good stuff.

[Snapperhead]

if this was still plugged while submerged , problem may be hidden in a chip or cap or resistor , or who the hell knows

Never hurts to try replacing what you can tho

Take magnifying glass and look at each solder joint for cracks

[icemeister]

Looking at a Manitowoc J/Q-Series control board (25-1130-3), the output relays appear to be this one, available for under 3 bucks at Mouser Electronics:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...52blt2eEjTY%3d