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Thread: spot the defect
02-13-2013, 10:14 AM #1
spot the defect
Weil McLain Ultra 105NG sidewall vented. Do you see anything that would indicate a problem? For now, ignore the oil fill and vent and concentrate on the exhaust.
02-13-2013, 10:21 AM #2
The exhaust and intake swapped in the sidewall thing, and to close to a window?If more government is the answer, then it's a really stupid question.
02-13-2013, 10:27 AM #3
02-13-2013, 10:36 AM #4
Ding, ding, ding!
This thing has been in operation 8 yrs! Unit took a dump giving a code 44 meaning control board but turned out to be just a bad stat. Meanwhile, she asks me what is going on with the wall. I go inside and trace the pipes. Yep, they crossed. Never tripped the pressure switch, flame rollout of limit. Still trying to figure out why they sold and install a power vented WH alongside this when this boiler could have done double duty. This boiler is oversized anyway (surprise, huh?).
FYI, the oil tank is still connected and contains fuel oil. She refuses to remove it and the hacks who installed this left the old coal burner boiler standing in the middle of the room.
The stainless steel side screws on this vent termination are all corroded from the acidic condensation. Still trying to figure out why this high end boiler and PV WH on this house for a client with a low budget. A buddy of mine shares an apartment here but was stuck in New England doing some TDY work for a client on their vacation home so I had to pinch hit for him on this one. No one ever noticed the exhaust was not a plume discharging out away from the building but instead the wall was dripping wet and sloughing off.
02-13-2013, 11:06 AM #5Professional Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2007
- Sterling Heights, MI
If it had been a metal wall, it may have been rotted through by now. As for the wall, maybe it's bad mortar or stucco.Better Service Through Knowledge...
RSES, The HVACR Training Authority. www.rses.org
02-13-2013, 11:15 AM #6
The wall was typical hardcoat stucco applied over CMU block then painted. Aside from the fact you never want to paint masonry because it hastens the death of the wall by trapping moisture inside, the acidic condensate ate through the paint then attacked the alkaline masonry. Agree, a metal wall would have been gone in months.
02-13-2013, 01:13 PM #7
And couldn't rain get in the intake, which should of been the exhaust. I have seen this on a concentric termination before.As iron sharpens iron so one man sharpens another Proverbs 27:17 NIV84
02-14-2013, 12:13 AM #8
I guess I need a little help with this.
The black is the exhaust, which is incorrect as it should be the intake.
The 45° is the intake, which is incorrect as it should be the exhaust.
Why is this incorrect? I ask because the flush mount kits we install would do the same, function wise.
Is that black thing an intake ONLY and different than a flush mount kit?
so I pulled up the manual for a UG3 and it looks like this is mostly acceptable , if I understand the manual correctly. pipe size may be wrong.
manual states "No closer than 12 inches below or horizontally from any
door or window or any other gravity air inlet."
while it does not state that both the pipes must be in the termination, common sense would dictate that, it looks like this is a proper exhaust,no.
venting starts about page 16;
Last edited by pacnw; 02-14-2013 at 12:30 AM. Reason: Google searchIf Guns Kill People, Do Pencils Misspell Words?
02-14-2013, 01:46 AM #9
If you look at figure 14 on page 18 it shows the sidewall venting. If you follow the diagram, the exhaust goes out the round "nozzle". That is what all the drawings show the clearances measured to. It should form a plume of condensation out from the wall instead of fogging against the wall.
02-14-2013, 02:07 AM #10
Even though I've never seen a side wall termination in person, and besides Pulse furnaces back when I used to work for Lennox dealers, have only seen 6 condensing appliances in the wild, I could tell what was wrong with that in just a couple of seconds.If more government is the answer, then it's a really stupid question.
02-14-2013, 08:50 AM #11
To the defense of the installers, there are no visible markings on this termination indicating the In and Out. Still, use your head, think and look at the directions. I've been there where you have to work out the final fit as the pipes must be trimmed to a close tolerance, whether this or for instance a Bayvent on a Trane, it's still planning, thinking and paying attention to what you are doing. God forbid anyone would do a final walk around inspection much less use a combustion analyzer.
02-14-2013, 09:36 AM #12
After I went to bed, I thought "I assumed they put it on the correct side of that black piece" .
So this happened because they put the exhaust in the intake which makes it hit the plastic and flow back against the wall.