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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    North Richland Hills, Texas
    Posts
    14,914
    Name:  b72c_star_wars_lightsaber_single.jpg
Views: 574
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    If more government is the answer, then it's a really stupid question.

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Pasadena,Maryland
    Posts
    265
    I have a tubing cutter with a deep blade I bought online, problem with it is seems to distort the roundness of the pipe, it does make clean straight cuts. I saw this tool online that is used to press the pipe into the fitting but I don't know how that would work in the ceiling , probably one of those things you need to use on a bench.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    TIP-O-TX
    Posts
    278
    Is this the so called SAW SAW that Tech Rob was inquiring about.
    Quote Originally Posted by hvacvegas View Post
    Attachment 354801

    and for the shavings:

    Attachment 354811

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    south jersey
    Posts
    1,102
    I had a Home Depot one that broke on one side and then cut straight. But it finally crapped out. I tried to break my other one in the same place without the same results. I only use them for up to 1 1/4. Everthing else is cut with a saw saw.
    You need to put the phone down and get back to work!

  5. #18
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    De Pere, Wisconsin, United States
    Posts
    33
    I have the Lenox R2's and they cut great. It's a spendy tool but it works good.
    http://www.lenoxtools.com/Pages/Prod...+TUBING+CUTTER

    Has anyone else noticed issues of using a pipe cutting on cold PVC? Seems to destroy the blade.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    7
    I use the Rigid for up to 1" and it cuts fast and square. Anything bigger and a sawzall with metal blade is the way I go

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    N.E. Ohio
    Posts
    112
    I've used my DeWalt miter saw on some bigger plumbing jobs. Works great, but I don't think I want to lug it to the basement for a half dozen cuts for a vent and Combustion air piping. The tubing cutter works good, it is a different wheel and is slow. Sawzall or PVC saw and a couple twist of the reamer, deburrer works for me.

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Posts
    7,741
    Sawzall or a porta band.
    YOU SHALL REAP WHAT YOU HAVE _______ SOWN

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    23
    I have been using a Lowes Kobalt Brand, and so far they have cut great for the past year. Also on bigger pipe I use a sawzall, but I make sure and use a high tpi blade like a 24.

    Sean

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    West Hartford, Connecticut, United States
    Posts
    35
    I have a klien. Works good for me. 1.5" and above I just use a sawzall a cutter would be cool thou. Maybe I'll look into the miluakee 18v

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    49
    A lennox hack saw and a sharpie can get you pretty far

    Sent from my SM-T217S using Tapatalk

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    10
    If you've got power then cheat - get a chop saw cheap somewhere! Always cuts straight and fast.

    When I don't have power I wrap paper around the pipe so its edges are flush then use a felt/pen to mark the circle. From there cut on the line (but not through the pipe) only on the side facing you and rotate the pipe to cut some more. usually takes me three or four complete rotations of the pipe before I cut all the way through. You get a very straight cut this way.

    Learned that from a plumber when we were installing 8" Sched 80 for a public pool circulation system. If you do it a lot then instead of paper you can get a special roll of impregnated/marked material from a plumbing supplier thats specifically for marking cuts around pipe.

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    373
    Called a Wrap-Around ^^^

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