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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    13
    wondering what it would cost for basically a 1700 sq ft home? any idea's?

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    4,423
    I do. But no pricing is allowed as per site rules. Look at there dealer locater and get a couple of quotes.
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  3. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    4,423
    Also check out the BPI site and maybe make a few calls there as well.
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  4. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    13
    Just wondering if i could run mastic paste over the tape and go happy with it, aeroseal if over $1000 is not an option for me right now financially. bpi does not have a provider near me, or within my state - MI

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    4,423
    Mastic and YOUR labor is a lot cheaper than Aeroseal!
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  6. #19
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    south louisiana
    Posts
    3,327
    aeroseal doesn't seal gaps over a certain size..3/4..5/8??
    never can remember what exact size air leakage site the product
    does not seal. but if you have big leaks...don't aeroseal.

    www.resnet.us is the source for energy raters
    bpi is source for energy auditors.

    standard testing for energy raters is blower door for house leakage
    & duct testing for duct/return leakage.

    these are the tests you need to invest in.

    duct testing, where ducts are depressurized calculates
    leakage amont. if the rater/auditor reverses the fan and
    pressurized the ducts/returns then you can feel the leakage
    sites. this is the best way to find leakage.

    finding return air leakage is hard without duct testing.
    where are the returns? ceiling? return chase with filter
    low on wall? knowing what type of return helps to advise
    on how to seal.

    ceiling returns can be sealed from inside the house.
    so can return air chases if big enough to fit a person inside.
    but you might need to hire a hvac worker who is small!

    when you pulled off supply grill...was the cut for the box tight or
    was there gaps around the supply box that are hidden by the grill?
    if so, you need to seal these also.
    see attached picture, for the method I use to address this leakage site.

    using the right product, mastic tape rather than foil or duct tape
    will give you a long lasting seal. duct & foil tapes fail in extreme
    temps. mastic tapes & paint on mastics work well for a long long
    time. I use only Hardcast brand #1402 mastic tape, having tried
    other brands I find this to be the best.
    note that all surfaces need to be both clean and dry.

    painting mastic over tape...I've never been a fan of it, but thats
    just my opinion. IF the tape is adhering well then painting the
    mastic will keep it in place.

    best of luck
    Name:  how to seal supply box from inside with MASTIC tape only.jpg
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    The cure of the part should not be attempted without the cure of the whole. ~Plato

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