Another vote for the AK900s.
I would recommend trying their manifold too. I thought it looked dumb and I would hate it, but I have come to simply adore it. 1/4 turn valves are the way to go.
I just make sure to add a ball valve on the yellow port of the manifold so I can add charge refrigerant through it.
I had a low side transducer fail on my Digi-Cool BTD-1000 in 2011, after a little over 5 years of use, and quite a bit of unreasonable abuse. They sent me a new transducer to install myself, and the gauge still works great.
I've been using my DRSA-1250 as my main gauges for more than 2 years without issue.
I've also got 3 sets of Testo digital gauges, their very first original 523, that still works flawlessly, the 2nd generation 523, that spent more time being shipped around for repairs than it ever worked, and a Testo 550 that has been repaired under warranty once.
I've also had a first generation Refco Digimon, it was complete junk. Refco has a new generation of the Digimon out, that seems greatly improved, but it will take a lot to get me to trust Refco digital gauges again.
Well, the manifold IS a crappy place for a micron gauge, so even if it is very accurate, it may not be telling you what you need to know.
I've come to terms with micron gauges in manifolds.
I won't use one myself, but I figure anything that gets more people to use a micron gauge, who previously never used one, or just had Supco VG60, is a good thing.
Why do you need readings in microns higher than that level? My YJ doesn't read microns greater than 25,000 either, maybe I should just ****can it? Heck, I just bought it! Come on guys, you're sounding like hvaclover here. I have the SMAN3, well I still use it anyway (basically gave it to a coworker), and just checked the micron gauge last week on it. I also checked the accuracy when I received it, which is documented in my initial review thread. It was accurate then, and is still accuate now compared to the micron gauges that I listed. It has never fouled and failed to read either, which I cannot say for the Inficon which required constant cleaning. The micron gauge on the SMAN3 has never been cleaned. It could be that being mounted to the manifold results in "automatic cleaning?" by the refrigerant passing through, I don't know, but these are the facts as I know them pertaining to my SMAN3. It has been a great DMG, and that's an objective comment. It'll be two years old next month. The only problem has been the sticking seats, which was addressed early on with the free upgraded versions.
I prefered (at that time) using my DC DRSA, and didn't need two digital manifolds and was short on cash, which is the only reason that I sold my SMAN3 to my coworker. When my DC quits I'll likely replace it with the SMAN4, or 5, or whatever is the latest version when that time comes. I do not like the DC sensor set-up... at all. I went through three sets, and even a mod, and just can't keep them working. I gave up and bought the Cooper blue box for line temps, and found that the DC clamps were lying to me anyway, by several degrees in some instances. JMTCW.
I am not trying to promote FP in any way, in fact FP owe's me one for correcting a faulty algorithm for them. I'm still a little miffed over the outcome of that e-mail exchange but can't fault any of their products for that.
Ok, so now I'm leaning towards a DC AK-900. Which temperature sensors would you guys recommend for the AK-900?
Also, several have mentioned not using manifold gauges for evacuation. I've always used my 4-way manifold for evacuation with a 3/8" hose to the vacuum pump. I have a Thermal Vak-Check Model# 4501 micron gauge I attach to the tree on my vacuum pump. I'm getting the impression that's not the best way. What are your methods? Feng? WWFD?
"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten". --Benjamin Franklin
"Don't argue with an idiot, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience". --Mark Twain
http://www.campbellmechanical.com
The clamp sensors are nice.
Best practices are removing cores, using large bore, vacuum rated hose with no depressors and no manifolds, straight to the pump, installing a vacuum gauge as far from the pump as possible.
You'd be amazed at how much faster it is pulling a vacuum straight with a large bore hose
Feng don't live by rules, pull a vac hell no, manufacturers don't know what there talking about!
Video with description that they're talking about regarding vacuum:
http://www.trutechtools.com/Vacuum-Training_c_1100.html
"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten". --Benjamin Franklin
"Don't argue with an idiot, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience". --Mark Twain
http://www.campbellmechanical.com
I don't know what this thread is about. I'll have to go back and read the OP.
LOL, I went back and read it. Seems my comment about hvaclover was a freudian slip, since I was unwittingly replying to his nephew! That IS weird. I must have looked at the beginning of the thread and didn't remember it. Too funny. I suppose I should apologize to hvac5646 at this point. Didn't mean anything by it hvac5646. Carry on.
Last edited by hvacrmedic; 02-03-2013 at 11:45 PM.
I actually didn't understand the OP question. Do you want to use the dual thermometer function in a digital gauge for other purposes than pipe temps? Yes you could but it isn't something I would want to do long term. It's good in a pinch. To get the DC to work like the Cooper box you would need to splice in a jack to accept the cooper sensor then it would be better but you will probably still want some good thermometers down the road not tied to your gauges also.
“If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball”