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Thread: Water heaters

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Chicagoland Area
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    Water heaters

    Mine sprung a leak. Who makes the better quality unit? GE, Richmond, Kenmore, or Whirlpool? Just getting a basic natural draft 6 year unit. Those are my choices from the big box stores.
    Officially, Down for the count

    YOU HAVE TO GET OFF YOUR ASS TO GET ON YOUR FEET

    I know enough to know, I don't know enough
    Liberalism-Ideas so good they mandate them

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Upper Michigan
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    3,589
    We have non of them around here. Ruud or Bradford white are the ones I use or used.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
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    get some high temp silicone and some furnace cement and you're golden.... lol. y don't you get one from your supplier? they might be cheaper than orange or blue box.
    Parts Changer Extraordinaire
    ------------------------------------------------------
    Have tools and gauges, will travel.

    RIDGID|YELLOW JACKET|UEI|TESTO|STANLEY|CPS|VETO| KLEIN|MILWAUKEE|MASTERCRAFT|

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    iowa
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    1,649
    i know that richmond is the same as rheem/ruud. menards had a richmond and my distributor was 15% cheaper....

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    1,114
    Stay the hell away from whirlpool. Trust me on this.

    I have seen ones that are 3 weeks old have holes in the tank. I have seen electric ones DOA out the box

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Chicago, IL
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    4,564
    If you're gonna get one from a Big Box, buy the Richmond from Menards. By far the best quality of them all. Also Menards has an 11% off everything sale going on now

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Anderson, South Carolina, United States
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    7,754
    Plumbing supply house should be cheaper.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    California
    Posts
    93
    I like Rheem...why are you shopping at the big box stores?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    529
    Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359522160.518866.jpg
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    Stops leaks
    Might buy you some time

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Myrtle Creek. Oregon
    Posts
    182
    I learned something about water heaters. If you change out the ANOD rod once in a while you can get a lot of years out of your water heater.
    a stupid question is a question you wont to ask, but don't

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    406
    qustion is how many more then the warrenty will cover?
    and alot of home owners ect dont know how to remove it let alone change it

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Atlanta area
    Posts
    2,662
    Quote Originally Posted by 2sac View Post
    Mine sprung a leak. Who makes the better quality unit? GE, Richmond, Kenmore, or Whirlpool? Just getting a basic natural draft 6 year unit. Those are my choices from the big box stores.
    To the best of my knowledge, none of those companies makes their own water
    heaters. They buy them from other manufacturers and put their own labels on
    them. And they don't always stick to one manufacturer.

    See this list of manufacturers:
    http://dir.yahoo.com/business_and_ec...manufacturers/

    If you stick to basic tank heaters, they're all pretty much the same. State Industries had a process for coating the inside of the tank after the seams were welded, but I don't know if they still do that. State also makes heaters with patented "Self-Cleaning" inlet tubes that circulate the water around the bottom of the tank and keep sediment to a minimum, but they are considerably more expensive.

    http://www.statewaterheaters.com/lit...SRGSS02608.pdf

    You can buy generic retrofit curved inlet tubes (dip tubes), but they are simply turned at the bottom to point the water horizontally. They don't go around the bottom of the heater like the State tube, but they are definitely worth installing.

    A.O. Smith acquired State Industries about a decade ago. I don't know how their product lines have changed since then, but I think State has maintained its individuality and integrity.

    To make your heater last, install it with dielectric nipples or unions (if you have copper pipe), install a thermal expansion tank or valve (not just a T&P valve), replace the anode rod once in a while, keep the temperature low, and drain some sediment from the bottom every now and then. These improvements will easily make your heater last twenty to thirty years or more.

    Expansion tanks are better than expansion valves because the tanks conserve water. Valves are cheaper (at first) and take less space, but they require drains.

    http://www.watts.com/pages/learnabou...lExpansion.asp

    Watts also makes a thermal expansion toilet fill valve, but I don't think it works on low flush toilets. Use this only as a last resort.

    http://www.watts.com/pages/_products...s.asp?pid=7237

    When copper pipes are connected to steel tanks, they create a dielectric effect, which makes the tank rust.

    Hot water causes more sediment to precipitate out from the water and settle on the bottom of the tank than cooler water. If you need extra hot water, turn it up before each job and then turn it back down. Sediment takes up space in the heater, reduces the amount of available hot water, necessitates turning up the temperature in order to produce the same amount of warm water, and stresses the tank.

    Thermal expansion causes the tank to expand every time the water is heated. This will shorten the life of your heater by several years.

    Anode rods decay more easily than steel tanks. As long as there is an anode rod in your tank, it will disintegrate before your tank does. Anode rods are easy to replace, but they are screwed in tight, so you will need a good socket wrench with a long handle, and you will have to brace the pipe or the heater. Buy an extra rod when you buy the heater and keep it handy, so that when the time comes all you have to do is find your wrench. Check your clearance above the heater before you buy it.

    Turn down the thermostat, shut off the cold water supply, releive the pressure by opening a hot water faucet, and drain some water from the bottom of the tank before you remove the anode rod. Before you turn the cold water back on, open the bathtub faucet and close other faucets so that air and sediment are spewed into the tub instead of out through your aerators and kitchen spray valve.

    For more info about water heater purchasing and modification, check out this website:
    http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pag...er-heater.html
    Vacuum Technology:
    CRUD = Contamination Resulting in Undesirable Deposits.
    CRAPP = Contamination Resulting in Additional Partial Pressure.

    Change your vacuum pump oil now.

    Test. Testing, 1,2,3.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Chicagoland Area
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    Quote Originally Posted by Strkout499 View Post
    I like Rheem...why are you shopping at the big box stores?
    I'll check the supply house today. Last time I priced them out a few years back Home Depot was cheaper. I put this one in 9 years ago. Not planning on staying here for more than a couple years, so I'm not interested in breaking the bank.
    Officially, Down for the count

    YOU HAVE TO GET OFF YOUR ASS TO GET ON YOUR FEET

    I know enough to know, I don't know enough
    Liberalism-Ideas so good they mandate them

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