Low Humidity Problem

[KenSC]

My RH inside is around 20% on cold days, I am in Upstate SC, where most people have a high humidity problem.

My house is ~30 years old. 1650 sq ft. on a slab. Windows replaced 3.5 years ago with mid-upper grade vinyl, doors are at least a little leaky. The heat pump air handler seems to be original. The outside unit is ~16 years old, replaced by previous owner.

If I could afford to, I would have the system replaced, ducts checked/repaired/updated as necessary. I am hoping to get a couple/few more years out of this system.

Option 1, is to install a humidifier. But it seems there is more likely a problem with my system causing the air to be so dry.

HVAC repair tech looked at the system to quote installing a humidifier, and says the air ducting is wrong and likely the culprit. The air handler is laying horizontal, the plenum has three lines, one on each side, and one coming out the end. HVAC tech says the one on the end is wrong, the plenum should be longer and the line should come off the side like the other two. The current config causes too much air moving across the coils, causing it to dry the air.

His recommended option is to put a mechanical adjustable damper on the duct line coming off the end of the plenum to equalize the pressure there. He felt this would probably alleviate the dry air problem.

Does this sound accurate? After reading a bit here, it seems I need to also have the ducts checked for leaks. What else should I get checked?

Thank you.

[dan sw fl]

My RH inside is around 20% on cold days, I am in Upstate SC, where most people have a high humidity problem.

My house is ~30 years old. 1650 sq ft. on a slab. Windows replaced 3.5 years ago with mid-upper grade vinyl, doors are at least a little leaky. The heat pump air handler seems to be original. The outside unit is ~16 years old, replaced by previous owner.

If I could afford to, I would have the system replaced, ducts checked/repaired/updated as necessary. I am hoping to get a couple/few more years out of this system.

Option 1, is to install a humidifier. But it seems there is more likely a problem with my system causing the air to be so dry.

HVAC repair tech looked at the system to quote installing a humidifier, and says the air ducting is wrong and likely the culprit. The air handler is laying horizontal, the plenum has three lines, one on each side, and one coming out the end. HVAC tech says the one on the end is wrong, the plenum should be longer and the line should come off the side like the other two. The current config causes too much air moving across the coils, causing it to dry the air.

His recommended option is to put a mechanical adjustable damper on the duct line coming off the end of the plenum to equalize the pressure there. He felt this would probably alleviate the dry air problem.

Does this sound accurate? After reading a bit here, it seems I need to also have the ducts checked for leaks. What else should I get checked?

Thank you.

What are you using to determine the Relative Humidity?

You may wish to check with another instrument.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UQRYi79QRc4

[jtrammel]

I'm in upstate SC, what county are you in? Maybe I can help. My company does blower door testing, duct leakage testing, thermal imaging, etc. my email is in my profile if you would like to contact me.

[BamaCool]

Humidifier on a heat pump??? Don't think you need that.

[Shophound]

Either your tech lacks a basic concept of psychrometrics, or you did not translate what he told you adequately for this forum.

I will be charitable and assume a mistranslation. First of all, the only time an HVAC system dehumidifies a house is when it is cooling and dehumidifying the air. In heating, it only heats. It adds no moisture to the air, nor does it take any moisture away.

The only thing that causes a house to become too dry in winter is air leakage. The source of that leakage can be the HVAC system ducts or the house itself, or both. For most residential construction of similar age and design as your own, it's both. To resolve it requires a plan, and that plan can best emerge from an energy audit or blower door test. I have a house that is slab on grade and is only about 200 square feet larger than yours, and I don't need a humidifier in winter. The house is over fifty years old, and I did not spend a fortune to improve its airtightness. I just learned where to look for the leaks, and fixed them.

[jtrammel]

This is what a home energy audit consists of http://www.comfortinstitute.org/whol...e-checkup.html

[KenSC]

What are you using to determine the Relative Humidity?

It is a simple indoor thermometer with humidity meter. I don't doubt that it may be inaccurate, but the dryness of the air makes it very uncomfortable and is causing some sinus issues, so it is definitely too low.

I'm in upstate SC, what county are you in? Maybe I can help. My company does blower door testing, duct leakage testing, thermal imaging, etc. my email is in my profile if you would like to contact me.

I am in Greenville county. Do you service this area?

Either your tech lacks a basic concept of psychrometrics, or you did not translate what he told you adequately for this forum.

I will be charitable and assume a mistranslation. First of all, the only time an HVAC system dehumidifies a house is when it is cooling and dehumidifying the air. In heating, it only heats. It adds no moisture to the air, nor does it take any moisture away.

The only thing that causes a house to become too dry in winter is air leakage. The source of that leakage can be the HVAC system ducts or the house itself, or both. For most residential construction of similar age and design as your own, it's both. To resolve it requires a plan, and that plan can best emerge from an energy audit or blower door test. I have a house that is slab on grade and is only about 200 square feet larger than yours, and I don't need a humidifier in winter. The house is over fifty years old, and I did not spend a fortune to improve its airtightness. I just learned where to look for the leaks, and fixed them.

Great info, very helpful. I had some doubts about what the tech was saying, and this confirms it and makes sense, thank you.

I will check into the energy audit and report back. Thanks for everyone's input.

[jtrammel]

We usually don't go to Greenville just anderson, oconee , pickens and abbeville but if you'll email me your address or at least what area of Greenville I will see if we can give you a call and see what we can do. My email address is in my profile on this site.

[KenSC]

Thanks jtrammel, but I may have this sorted out. I already had an appt for another company to come check out the problem.

This morning, the air flow was measured at all vents and at the returns.

Supply = 902
Return = 667

So it looks like the return ducts are leaking. However, we used pleated filters on the returns which the tech said was restricting the flow. I pulled the filters and he measured the returns again and they measured 890.

So, it seems the pleated filters may be causing the return lines to pull in air in the attic, and drying it out. I'm going to put the cheap fiberglass filters in and see how that affects the humidity.

[beenthere]

Have the ducts sealed. He should have remeasured the supply after you pulled the filters.