RTU burner cutting in and out

[TheDecline]

Unit: Lennox GCS16-411-100-1P Packaged rooftop

So the burner on this rooftop unit keeps cutting in and out when it first starts. I inspected the heat exchanger for any holes but didn't see any; although the style of heat exchanger makes it difficult to fully inspect.

As soon as the flame drops out the ignitor fires again and the burner lights so the flame sensor is working correctly. Voltage is continuous to the gas valve through all of this so its not the ignition module.

I put my manometer on the outlet of the gas valve but naturally I couldn't reproduce the problem at that point. The customer says the unit will run for a while and then lockout and then eventually come back on.

Im wondering if the flame is getting blown out by something (the building is on the shore of Lake Ontario and its been very bad weather lately) or if the gas valve is having trouble staying open despite proper voltage.

Hazard a guess.

Heres a link to a video of the problem. http://s38.beta.photobucket.com/user...e26ae.mp4.html

[timebuilder]

I think this one is more for the pro technical forum.

[valdelocc]

nice rifle

[Tmech12]

Nice video, or random pics of you and chicks, whichever.

[2sac]

Is that a Catilina or Bonneville?

Might want to change your photobucket settings to "private"

[Thermodynamics]

One sick photobucket account

[jlowe79]

Gonna have to check gas pressure. If that checks out pull it apart to check exchanger.

[Betabass]

Check flame signal and gas pressures. I have had momentary voltage drops at the wiring connection on limits cause this scenario as well.

Beta

[TheDecline]

Is that a Catilina or Bonneville?

Might want to change your photobucket settings to "private"

Its a Grandville actually. Same thing though. I haven't used that photobucket account in ages hence all the BS in there.

Every time I connect a manometer I cant reproduce the problem. It appears if the flame is going out, then the flame sensor is seeing it and restarting the ignitor and not the other way around which means the flame is going out from an outside source, so to speak, rather than being shut off from flame failure.

I guess i'll have to start changing some parts if i can't get the gas pressure to check out.

[air1]

You said you checked the voltage to the gas valve while this is happening. Did the voltage fluctuate when this was happening? I'm wondering if the gas valve coil is bad and dropping in and out. If so, you should see a voltage fluctuation. If the gas valve is good I would suspect something is disrupting the flame. HX, inducer, wind sheer.....etc. You said the weather has been bad. Perhaps something temperature related.

[TheDecline]

You said you checked the voltage to the gas valve while this is happening. Did the voltage fluctuate when this was happening? I'm wondering if the gas valve coil is bad and dropping in and out. If so, you should see a voltage fluctuation. If the gas valve is good I would suspect something is disrupting the flame. HX, inducer, wind sheer.....etc. You said the weather has been bad. Perhaps something temperature related.

I didn't really see voltage fluctuation but it happens so quick and my meter doesn't respond instantly, especially in -25C. There is no pilot on this so it just opens the valve and starts the ignitor when it sees flame failure and its only a fraction of a second between dropout and reignition so its really hard to figure out where its coming from. I think i'll just see about switching the gas valve out with something I have laying around to eliminate that possibility.

[air1]

I didn't really see voltage fluctuation but it happens so quick and my meter doesn't respond instantly, especially in -25C. There is no pilot on this so it just opens the valve and starts the ignitor when it sees flame failure and its only a fraction of a second between dropout and reignition so its really hard to figure out where its coming from. I think i'll just see about switching the gas valve out with something I have laying around to eliminate that possibility.

Try tapping on the valve to see if you can duplicate the problem.

[timebuilder]

Wow. I had forgotten about the Grandville.

Are you seeing any variance in the flame rectification current prior to the unit trying to restart?

[drunkenkoala]

What is the micro amp reading you are getting . Check your flame sensor , I am not 1000 percent sure what you should get on that unit but if you are below 4, I would pull your sensor, clean it, and then check what reading you are getting. IF you are getting 4-5 your sensor is not your problem. I am not familiar with this unit, but it is a start.

[drunkenkoala]

Hey one more thing i thought of after i watchd the video.... This unit is a propane unit and the tank isnt low on propane is it?

[Drunkgoat]

had a unit with issues like that and it was the thermostat. both times unit was a trane with a bay 19 zone sensor. unit would run great while i was there, but when i left it would shut down

[desol]

I'd check the flame sensor(or pilot ground), blower leakage to the burner compartment and ignition module.....etc.

[ReeferTechy]

Is there a heater in the compartment for the gas valve on the unit? -25C could be a little cold for that valve.

If all the components are clean for heating, flame sensor, burners, etc...try checking for proper and good ground. I have had some weird things happen without a good and clean ground on those ignition modules.

[cjpwalker]

X

[jnsrose]

Your photos are all over the place. Might want to check them settings so everybody doesn't get to see all. If it is propane temp may be too low even if tank is partially full.