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Thread: THPRE

  1. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by THPRE View Post
    OK I go for that. But the air flow in the house seems suficient. Warms the house quickly enough. It is moving enough air to cause the inner door to be forced open. It is always left open anyway. I don't have the numbers from the tests here so will look at home again. Thanks , THPRE
    ... which door are you saying is being forced?
    it's very simple. a 4 ton heat pump needs 1600cfm of airflow. that's air moving across the coil. if the ductwork is not sized properly to PERFECTLY flow air throughout the house, NOT ADEQUATELY, but PERFECTLY the VS blower will just spin faster, and faster in it's attempt to get the air to move across it. and no matter how hard you blow into a coke bottle, the air won't flow unless you give it a path large enough...
    2500 square feet should have at LEAST 2 returns with filters in them, with ducts large enough to flow the air at a low enough pressure to allow it to move with the blower provided.

    you mention 3 16" ducts feeding the 3 sections of in floor ductwork... what size is the duct the 16"ers are connected to on each end?
    The TRUE highest cost system is the system not installed properly...

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  2. #122
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    PRESSURE and AIRFLOW are not the same...
    a home blower is designed ONLY for a certain amount of pressure, and if the airflow at that pressure is too low, you do not get a functional SYSTEM.
    The TRUE highest cost system is the system not installed properly...

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  3. #123
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    The inside tx valve has been replaced twice and the outside one once.Also the drier but not the reciever. I think the suction was at 180 but I was fixated on the 610 high side. None of the changes to mechanical components or changes to the air flow have made any difference to the functioning of the refergeration system - except of course taking refergerant out and adding it back next season. Air flow changes of course made the house warm up or cool down more quickly and allowed the heat pump to run less. But the basic problem has remained the same.

  4. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by crmont View Post
    Because it's very rare and easily diagnosed.
    Easily diagnosed for you maybe but that doesn't mean it would be for whoever is working on this unit. They've already changed the indoor TXV twice trying to fix this problem when supposedly the cooling was working fine. Something just doesn't add up here so I wouldn't assume anything at this point. I just saw the OP's post about the suction at 180 psi. If that's correct then it would have to be either overcharged, not enough air over the indoor coil or the coil is too small.
    Last edited by garyed; 01-30-2013 at 10:17 AM. Reason: new info
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  5. #125
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    I am already paying out for labor for all the testing and checking , I would be happy enough to pay labor to have it fixed. Maybe Goodman was just saying they would only gaurantee labor with the original installer. I know for sure that Goodman told me they would only deal with the original installer. That was in response to a phone call and an internet inquiry.

  6. #126
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    VSTEC; I was not very specific on the door bit. Picture a rectangular room with a door at each end and the air handler in an inclosure on one side. One door to the outside and one door to the inside of the house. The inside door is what I was refering to. It is a normal 36 in door with a louvered grill in the bottom half of the dooor. This door fights being closed when the fan is running. The outside door does the same thing. I do not know the size of the three main trunks that the soft ducts are connected to. they are steel and rectangular but I don't know thwe dimensions. I guess I could cut another opening in the cabinet above the air handler and add another filter and grill. But with .05 as a max. static pressure in the return area is that needed? That was a maximum - with the out side vent in the top of the closet open it is less so the .30 total static pressures I mentioned are the highes experienced not the lowest. Thanks,THPRE

  7. #127
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    The outdoor txv has been replaced and was never the problem anyway.

    I'm still waiting for a picture of the coil section of the air handler. I still think the coil is 90 degrees off.

  8. #128
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    CRMONT; I am sorry about the pictures. The tx valve does fit in the cabinet and is normally closed and out of sight. The air handler is not square , it is 24 3/4 by 21 1/2 so it would be noticable if it were 90 degrees off. I'm not at home today so can't take better pictures.

  9. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by THPRE View Post
    VSTEC; I was not very specific on the door bit. Picture a rectangular room with a door at each end and the air handler in an inclosure on one side. One door to the outside and one door to the inside of the house. The inside door is what I was refering to. It is a normal 36 in door with a louvered grill in the bottom half of the dooor. This door fights being closed when the fan is running. The outside door does the same thing. I do not know the size of the three main trunks that the soft ducts are connected to. they are steel and rectangular but I don't know thwe dimensions. I guess I could cut another opening in the cabinet above the air handler and add another filter and grill. But with .05 as a max. static pressure in the return area is that needed? That was a maximum - with the out side vent in the top of the closet open it is less so the .30 total static pressures I mentioned are the highes experienced not the lowest. Thanks,THPRE
    where are you getting this .05 max return static number from?
    The TRUE highest cost system is the system not installed properly...

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  10. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by vstech View Post
    where are you getting this .05 max return static number from?
    I think by taking it improperly.

  11. #131
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    That measurement was through the door over the air filter with the filter removed and max because the outside air vent through the roof was closed - reading was lower with the vent open. Supply side was .25 to .27 . this was taken close to the floor through a hole in the duct under the air handler - so essentially it is the pressure in the plenum.

  12. #132
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    Needed to be done with the filter in.

  13. #133
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    Yes if the system worked without the filter and not with the filter then the readings with and without would be pertinent. But this system does not work either way and in fact will not work with the increased air flow of disconnected ducts under the house. Considering this it seems to me that the filter is a non issue. With the filter out ,the 6in outside duct open, the filter door open, and a huge hole from the removal of a 16in duct on the supply side and the system still does not work. This seems to me to be a refergeration problem? Am I wrong? Or missing something? At least I do not see an air flow problem unless too much air has some other effect that I am not aware of. Kind of like too much water flow through a radiator results in poor cooling - ?? This is a phenomen that has fooled mechanics now and then. I don't know if it is the same here? THANKS,THPRE

  14. #134
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    Actually on reflection -- too much water flow would be more like too much refergerant flow which is controlled by the tx valve. I have never heard of too much air flow causing a lack of heat transfer.

  15. #135
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    There comes a time in life when we all have some reflecting to do.
    This IS your time.

  16. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by THPRE View Post
    Actually on reflection -- too much water flow would be more like too much refergerant flow which is controlled by the tx valve. I have never heard of too much air flow causing a lack of heat transfer.
    I can't find an AHRI match for your system combination using SSZ16048 and CAPF4860. Please verify your numbers.

  17. #137
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    Thread Starter
    AHRI CERT. NUMBER - 1047241
    OUTDOOR SSZ160481A
    INDOOR CA F4860 6A + MBE2000-1 +TXV
    ACTUAL RECIEPT FROM MY CONTRACTOR
    GOODMAN 16 SEER SSZ16048
    AIR HANDLER MBVC2000
    GOODMAN COIL ---- NO NUMBER!
    COPPER LINE SET - - NO NUMBER
    15KW HEAT STRIP
    THESE ARE WHAT I HAVE. THANKS,THPRE

  18. #138
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    YEAH --- I'M REFLECTING ON WHY I HAVE TO FIGURE THIS OUT INSTEAD OF SOMEONE ELSE --YOU KNOW LIKE SOMEONE I PAID TO DO THE JOB OR SUPPLY THE PARTS!

  19. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by THPRE View Post
    AHRI CERT. NUMBER - 1047241
    OUTDOOR SSZ160481A
    INDOOR CA F4860 6A + MBE2000-1 +TXV
    ACTUAL RECIEPT FROM MY CONTRACTOR
    GOODMAN 16 SEER SSZ16048
    AIR HANDLER MBVC2000
    GOODMAN COIL ---- NO NUMBER!
    COPPER LINE SET - - NO NUMBER
    15KW HEAT STRIP
    THESE ARE WHAT I HAVE. THANKS,THPRE
    That's not a good AHRI number.

  20. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by THPRE View Post
    YEAH --- I'M REFLECTING ON WHY I HAVE TO FIGURE THIS OUT INSTEAD OF SOMEONE ELSE --YOU KNOW LIKE SOMEONE I PAID TO DO THE JOB OR SUPPLY THE PARTS!
    You hired an unqualified person whom I'm sure you overpaid. Everyone has tried to help you.
    The truth is you manipulated the govt by getting an energy rebate an a system that is over engineered for you trailer, and now your pissed at everybody because they are not telling you what you want to hear.
    Get all the readings and useless information and see what changes in your situation. Nothing will change until you take responsibilty for your actions.

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