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Thread: cutting 636 vent pipe
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01-19-2013, 07:12 PM #1
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cutting 636 vent pipe
so for years we always used a hacksaw or sawzall to cut our ABS and now the 636 vent pipe.after attending a seminar on how to properly install 636 vent,we were told to use a proper cutting tool.so now we all have ratcheting pvc pipe cutters that work very well in the summer but in the winter they are complete crap.i have to honk on those suckers with both hands to cut 2" 636 vent pipe.plus the cutters are no good for the 3" vent pipe.was wondering what everyone else here uses ?theres got to be a better tool that doesn't cause wrist damage.
if it wont go,get a bigger hammer.
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01-19-2013, 07:16 PM #2
I use a chop saw.
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01-19-2013, 08:06 PM #3
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Cordless Band saw or large ridgid pipe cutter. Cordless grinder to bevel pipe after cutting
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01-19-2013, 08:45 PM #4
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Cheap miter saw like one from Harbor Freight.
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01-19-2013, 09:49 PM #5
I'm assuming you changed because of the plastic shavings? Keep doing the fast and easy way, take a deburring tool and ream out the inside edge of the pipe, tap it hard on the ground and the shavings fall out. If you're still worried, pop each pipe with a couple hundred psi of nitro and blow it out.
Lots of guys(including most plumbers) in my area are using recips or the Milwaukee 12v saw for cuts, if there is room and convience of power, a chop saw works great.
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01-19-2013, 09:51 PM #6
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Or warm the pipe up before cutting
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01-19-2013, 09:52 PM #7
What is 636 pipe?
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01-19-2013, 10:18 PM #8
System 636 PVC is classified as Type BH Class IIA vent suitable for use on appliances with flue gas temperatures up to and including 65*C. Sizes include 1-1/2", 2", 2-1/2", 3" and 4". Coloured white with unique blue certification markings and orange warning label in accordance with ULC S636.
They(Canadians) aren't allowed to use the standard sched 40 PVC that we use in the states. They also, in general, have a more stringent code system and process of becoming certified in various HVAC fields.Last edited by mason; 01-19-2013 at 10:43 PM.
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01-19-2013, 10:23 PM #9
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636 pipe is pvc vent pipe made by ipex.we have to use it here in canada.sawzall should not be used because of the plastic cuttings.they stick to the inside of the pipe via static electricity and eventually plug the furnace drain.a special chamfer tool must be used with 636 pipe.it chamfers the outside of pipe and allows a real good press fit joint without "plowing out"the cement.
if it wont go,get a bigger hammer.
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01-19-2013, 10:37 PM #10
I got a what I thought to be a good 2" cutter made by Kobalt. It had a very agressive v shaped blade. It would tend to just break the pipe instead of cut. I took it back and got a cheep generic brand one. It cuts nice however the ratchet likes to slip sometimes. I like to lay the pipe on the ground and have one handle of the cutter on the ground, then use my weight to push the other handle down. It will cause the pipe to bend inward a little, but it will eventually cut. If I have to cut an exsisting pipe it is kind of a fight but it will do it. I have had a little trouble in cold temps so I just took my little LP torch out and quickly warm up pipe a little. For 3" pipe I like the chop saw but it's a little bit of a pain to drag it around so I usually use a skill saw. Just need to wear glassed to protect eyes. However, when ever I create shavings I run a rag or blow through with CO2. If you have ever been called out at 11:30 pm to drive 2 hours to run a no heat on a 4 hour old install and find shavings pluged up so bad you have to run a water hose down the flew to clear them out it makes you be very picky when it comes to shavings. The Lennox G series and the (new series that I can't think of its name right now). Have a very very small drain port from the collector box and the drain line has very little pitch. They will plug very easily.
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01-19-2013, 10:56 PM #11
Couple things, was that your experience, lots of plugged up drains from shavings? I haven't used 636, is it more prone to shavings sticking then the sched 40 PVC used in the states?
I've been on two plugged drains from shavings and it was when our company brought on new helpers that did it wrong and didn't clear the shavings. If you ream it(this end down so the shavings don't go in the pipe), clear it and use a sharp knife to cut off any extra outside edge, it won't happen. All that stuff takes about 10 seconds when you're familiar with it, again not experienced with 636 though.
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01-19-2013, 11:01 PM #12
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01-19-2013, 11:16 PM #13
I haven't used 636 just sched 40. The only big problem with pluged drains was on the Lennox, ( Like I said the port is very small even a lady bug would cause problems) I didn't have problem when I installed cuz I was carefull and made sure I cleared shavings. I'm a servic tech so I don't install all that often anymore, ( in comparison to when I was an installer). It just seamed when we ( techs) would tell the installers about the problem it seamed to fall on def ears. In any case when you don't take the time to fallow proper procedures the end product tends to be subpar.


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