Results 40 to 52 of 73
-
01-24-2013, 09:11 AM #40
Keeping a home cooled below outside dew points can also cause condensation of moisture in the insulation while outside dew points are high. Best to not overcool homes while outside dew points are +70^F. Should dryout during cold weather and heating.
Attaching data from a SW FL home with a/c-dehumidification-fresh air ventilation for 2 weeks, followed by cool dry weather without a/c or dehumidification. Observe the lower inside dew point while the outside dew points are high. During not dehu or a/c, the inside dew point follows the outside dew point. Additional fresh dry air ventilation reduces the humidification effect from the occupants. Fresh air ventilation and dehumidification are important for air tight well insulated homes.
Regards TB
Attaching PDF file. Click on the pdf to veiw.
Cape Coral FL Home Jan 2013.pdfBear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"
-
01-24-2013, 12:47 PM #41
Professional Member*
- Join Date
- May 2004
- Location
- south louisiana
- Posts
- 2,199
what is exterior cladding of the home?
what type of underlayment was used between brick
and insulation in stud bays?
was a vapor barrier used behind sheetrock to interior?
knowing that this is a retrofit rather than a new construction home
raises more questions.
determining where the moisture is comming from, internal gain..or something else
is what you need to know.
best of luck.The cure of the part should not be attempted without the cure of the whole. ~Plato
-
01-24-2013, 02:37 PM #42
Professional Member*
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Location
- So. NH
- Posts
- 652
This is the part that is still raising my eyebrow, the OP states "when the heater kicks on, the humidity in the house shoots up all of a sudden"
Since he didn't provide the numbers I'll just guess and say he's going from 65F/60% RH to 70F. A quick look at the psyometric chart tells me the RH should drop to about 50%. Something just isn't right here.
If the op could post some pictures that may help.
-
01-24-2013, 03:19 PM #43Which makes more sense to you?
CONSERVATION - turning your thermostat back and being uncomfortable. Maybe saving 5-10%
ENERGY EFFICIENCY - leaving your thermostat where everyone is comfortable. Saving 30-70%
DO THE NUMBERS! Step on a HOMESCALE.
What is comfort? Well, it AIN'T just TEMPERATURE!
Energy Obese? An audit is the next step - go to BPI.org, or RESNET, and find an auditor near you.
-
01-24-2013, 03:24 PM #44
Regular Guest
- Join Date
- Mar 2012
- Posts
- 35
-
01-24-2013, 03:48 PM #45
Regular Guest
- Join Date
- Mar 2012
- Posts
- 35
Let me explain something. I am not an HVAC expert. As I've stated quite a few times, I really appreciate all of the feedback being given. And no, I didn't realize that I wasn't answering a question that was being asked by stvc. If I am correct, you can only set the humidity level to what you would like it to reach in the cooling stage, but that doesn't mean that I have a dehumidifier built in with the system. Also, with the heat running, the humidity level and the heater do not work together in heat mode that I am aware. Maybe I am way off base here, but this is how I understand it. This is not my actual tstat, but it is identical to it. I pulled this one off of the internet.
-
01-24-2013, 03:59 PM #46
Can you post a few pictures of your air handler? We'll be able to tell you if you have a humidifier installed.
Communicating equipment manages HUMIDIFICATION as well as dehumidification.Which makes more sense to you?
CONSERVATION - turning your thermostat back and being uncomfortable. Maybe saving 5-10%
ENERGY EFFICIENCY - leaving your thermostat where everyone is comfortable. Saving 30-70%
DO THE NUMBERS! Step on a HOMESCALE.
What is comfort? Well, it AIN'T just TEMPERATURE!
Energy Obese? An audit is the next step - go to BPI.org, or RESNET, and find an auditor near you.
-
01-24-2013, 04:14 PM #47
Regular Guest
- Join Date
- Mar 2012
- Posts
- 35
-
01-24-2013, 04:46 PM #48
Professional Member*
- Join Date
- May 2004
- Location
- south louisiana
- Posts
- 2,199
Chad, we know you aren't a hvac expert.
just as you know that we are toubleshooting via internet.
there are limits to both.
I asked about wall construction thinking about moisture driven thru brick exterior.
this article (that you'd have to download) explains it well.
http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...ure+brick+wall
we would be remiss in only addressing the RH without exploring why it is so high.
as different folks chime in, and more information is posted..more questions are asked.
are you game for a few more questions?
you have cellulose insulation in walls and on attic floor..correct?
was the insulation in the walls wet blown when installed?The cure of the part should not be attempted without the cure of the whole. ~Plato
-
01-24-2013, 05:07 PM #49
That's a pretty nice looking installation EXCEPT the emergency drain pan looks like its got water in it. Hard to tell from the picture, but the bottom looks reflective and the wood looks wet.
That drain pan should always be dry.
So where is that water coming from? I suspect there is a humidifier somewhere. (The dehumidifier is the AC Coil - in summer it gets cold and becomes a condensing surface. Water drains out those little white pipes.)
More pictures please?Which makes more sense to you?
CONSERVATION - turning your thermostat back and being uncomfortable. Maybe saving 5-10%
ENERGY EFFICIENCY - leaving your thermostat where everyone is comfortable. Saving 30-70%
DO THE NUMBERS! Step on a HOMESCALE.
What is comfort? Well, it AIN'T just TEMPERATURE!
Energy Obese? An audit is the next step - go to BPI.org, or RESNET, and find an auditor near you.
-
01-24-2013, 05:39 PM #50
Regular Guest
- Join Date
- Mar 2012
- Posts
- 35
-
01-24-2013, 05:46 PM #51
Regular Guest
- Join Date
- Mar 2012
- Posts
- 35
That picture is over 8 months old. The water that you see has been alleviated. The emergency drain pain has not been wet since. I do understand about the AC coil being a dehumidifier during the summer months when it is cooling. The way you made it sound earlier was as if I had a dehumidifier along with the AC unit. Exactly which angle pictures would you like?
-
01-24-2013, 07:29 PM #52
Professional Member*
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Location
- So. NH
- Posts
- 652
So where did the water come from the first time and what was done to correct it? Again, have you discussed this with your HVAC contractor?
A humidifier is another question that I think you said you did not believe you had, typically mounted on the supply duct but could also be on the return. Very common here, probably not so much there though. The more pictures the better we will be able to assess the situation without being there. I also was asking about inside/outside temp and humidity set points. Do you still use AC during the daytime?



Reply With Quote